My camera has a built in picture profile I like, but I prefer to shoot in raw, so I'm trying to recreate the look in my raw developer. I've gotten pretty close, but can't seem to nail it completely. Here's an example with added color histograms:

enter image description here

The leftmost image is what I'm trying to recreate, and the right is where I have currently got to.

I think I would be within what I'm looking for, if I could get that last blue peak "moved left" a bit or "compacted", but I'm lacking the theoretical understanding of how to do that.

What kind of adjustments do I need to make to get closer to the look in the first image?

I'm currently using Capture One Pro 9.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Possible duplicate of What software raw converter can convert from .raf to .jpg, replicating the Fujifilm in-camera raw conversion algorithm? \$\endgroup\$
    – Itai
    Commented Nov 13, 2016 at 14:55
  • \$\begingroup\$ This question has been asked for different cameras many times. It is just not possible to get the exact same processing without using the manufacturer's software which knows the secret sauce. \$\endgroup\$
    – Itai
    Commented Nov 13, 2016 at 14:56
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ ... But I think we can figure out the general idea of this specific adjustment. \$\endgroup\$
    – mattdm
    Commented Nov 13, 2016 at 16:19
  • \$\begingroup\$ Does CaptureOne Pro 9 have a blue/amber axis adjustment (similar to the magenta/green axis) in addition to the color temperature adjustment? \$\endgroup\$
    – Michael C
    Commented Nov 13, 2016 at 22:13
  • \$\begingroup\$ Aside from the blue (and other colors) saturation level, there seems to be a difference in contrast levels between the two photos. i prefer the one on the right. \$\endgroup\$
    – Alaska Man
    Commented Jan 12, 2017 at 19:25

2 Answers 2


I suspect most of it this time is exposure. Adjust the exposure brighter to better match the first exposure, and the blue also falls more in line (becomes lighter).

White Balance of course also affects colors. High temp WB boosts blue and lowers red. Lower temp WB boosts red and lowers blue.

And of course, your raw editor surely has a setting to select some color profile. Something like Vivid will boost the colors.

  • \$\begingroup\$ High temp WB boosts yellow/orange and lowers blue/purple to offset the higher blue/lower yellow present in higher temperature light sources and vice versa. \$\endgroup\$
    – Michael C
    Commented Nov 22, 2016 at 8:09

My camera has a built in picture profile I like, but I prefer to shoot in raw

The picture profile should still be stored in the raw file. Third party raw converters usually ignore them and thus cannot recreate the exact look.

If manually fiddling around with the adjustments is not getting you close enough, open the raw file in the software that came with your camera. It should be able to recreate the picture profile and allow you to export to an intermediate format like .tiff, which you can then use in Capture One.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks for the answer. While I like the picture profile, it's not always perfect, and keeping the file in raw, and having a preset that matches it to work from gives me some more flexibility and an easy workflow. Also, I'd like to avoid running the image through more steps than necessary. More importantly, the question is more of an exercise in how I would do something like this, should another situation like it come up. \$\endgroup\$
    – Mark Qvist
    Commented Nov 13, 2016 at 14:41

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