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I have a Spyder5Pro and I used it to calibrate two Dell Ultrasharps (different models) and they look mostly the same but it looks too dark for me and the whites are kinda yellowish-grayish.

Is it possible for the Spyder5Pro to take the measurements of monitor 1 and then calibrate monitor 2 to look as close as possible to monitor 1?

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No, it does not do this. The Spyder calibrates against a fixed standard. If you use ProPhotoRGB (2nd best AbodeRGB) then the prints will match the monitor from a professional printer. If you are looking to publish to internet rather than print, then you will not want a calibrated monitor. Also if you use Mpix to print, you will not want to calibrate your monitor. The look from a calibrated monitor should be duller and lower contrast. If you print locally, you can calibrate it then use the paper and printer profiles to get the look of the print to match as closely as possible. The match will not be perfect due to the way the pigment (or dye depending on the printer) and the monitor handle color. For the best prints, you will also want to create a profile for the camera to make things easier to process. The calibration is to attempt to match the gamut of the different devices involved. This is never perfect as print has a different gamut than a monitor. And the camera where it originates is different yet. A print from a calibrated monitor will show more than you can see on the monitor unless you have a monitor that does 99% of the AdobeRGB gamut.

Alternatively, if you are not printing locally or from a professional printer, you will not want to profile your monitor. You should reset it to default. Then lower the contrast and perhaps the brightness to show the most levels. I find the easiest way to do this is to make a new picture in Photoshop. Then do a black/white gradient. After you have this, change the color space to 8 bit. This will produce a banded photo. Display it full size. Then make your monitor adjustments to show the lightest and darkest bands distinctly. Use sRGB color space in Lightroom and Photoshop. Then when you publish to internet most people on their devices will see pretty much what you do. If you print then print from Mpix and most general public services, they will expect a sRGB jpeg. Since you are processing it yourself size it for the print. And then chose a direct printing without their corrections. This is cheaper since you already did the correction and will match your screen as close as possible.

I am not recommending Mpix nor endorsing it when I mention it. There are many other fine services that do the same things.

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