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I have an Agfa Click II (1/30 s fixed, f/11 for sunny and f/8.8 for overcast) that I'm using with Kodak T-Max 100 ISO (BN, negative).

What are my reasonable alternatives for developing it, considering I use Adonal/Rodinal?

If I am correct, I should theoretically develop the film at 25 ISO to satisfy the sunny 16 rule: "sunny" setting is f/11 in the Click II, so I have one stop overexposure, and I have 1/30 instead of 1/100, so I have another 1,5 stops overexposure, meaning about 25 ISO from the base sensitivity of the film (100 ISO).

Should I stick to that theoretical calculation or would developing for 50 ISO be also ok with this negative film? I think negative handles overexposure well.

Concerning choice of dilution, 1+25, 1+50 or 1+100?

The final use will be scanning using Nikon Coolscan with medium film adaptor. I will try some wet darkroom prints too but they are not as important.

Edit: I found this question Pushing film while stand developing? but it deals with the opposite case, with underexposed film that was exposed for higher sensitivity. In my case I may need to avoid an excessive increase in density of the negative during development.

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  • The rule is sunny 16, so one more stop overexposure. – MirekE Aug 7 '16 at 1:54
  • Only when exposure time is 1/ISO. In my case I have 1/30 but 100 ISO. It's another 1.5 stops. – FarO Aug 7 '16 at 10:00
  • I think you are close to three stops off, not two. One stop because of sunny 16 vs sunny 11 plus almost 2 more stops because you exposed 1/30 instead of 1/100 – MirekE Aug 7 '16 at 22:05
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If it were me, I would develop at the normal recommended time. Why, you overexposed 1 2/3 stop; that will bring out shadow detail. T-Max does quite well with over exposure. Please do not over think this. If your camera is a bit old the shutter speed will be off from what you set it to, i.e one of my cameras set to 1/500 is actually 1/350. Go ahead develop normally all will be good.

Another thought, during developing do not think about pulling a film, it will make little difference. It is when under exposing one should give thought to changing the developing time.

Okay, I am speaking from fifty years of experience, with hundreds of rolls of developed film. Overexposed film gained little if any from changing developing times. However under exposer gained much from extending the developing times. From personal experience at a football game the flash quit. From then on I shot that game at three to four stops of under exposure. During developing I needed to extend developing, results were serviceable for newspapers. Testing overexposure I did not see any results that proved pull development worth while. With B&W over exposure can be adjusted during printing, not so much with under exposure.

Again, one to two stops over exposure, develop normally. Truly it will be okay. Keep it simple.

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  • Then I will use the 1+100 stand developing, to obtain ISO 64. I wanted to try stand development... digitaltruth.com/… – FarO Nov 9 '16 at 10:15
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My approach would be to use a developer that works well with overexposed films. Ilford Perceptol and Xtol would be examples of such a developer.

If the film is still dark after complete processing with development time appropriately reduced for ISO 25, I would treat it with Farmer's reducer.

Take a look at the Massive Developer Chart to find a developer and development times for overexposed films. It looks like Xtol would be the best choice for your Kodak film.

Kodak Xtol Technical data sheet including dev times for Tmax 100 exposed at ISO 25-50: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j109/j109.pdf

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  • From that table I could also use Rodinal to develop at 50 or 64 ISO. I guess 50 ISO would be fine since negatives handle overexposure well? – FarO Aug 7 '16 at 21:49
  • With developing as ISO 50, you will be still approx. two stops off. I would personally go with Xtol and what they call ISO 25/50. – MirekE Aug 7 '16 at 21:57
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If you have Rodinal (which is very nice developer imo) and you think you have overexposed shots, and you don't wanna pull the film then you do semi-stand development.

Here's how you do it:

  • Dilute Rodinal 1+100 in 20 C water
  • Agitate the first minute
  • Agitate 4 times (slow agitations) every 15 minutes
  • Total time is 1 hour

The reason behind my suggestion to semi-stand is that when you agitate you make the developer develops the shadows but when you leave it (stand) then it will work on the highlights.

If you want to pull it, then yes you can. Check here and here

Good luck

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  • 1h stand produces 100 ISO with low contrast, if I remember correctly. If I agitate I develop more the shadows, and the highlights are the same. Wouldn't I obtain an even more overexposed (dark) film with even lower contrast? – FarO Aug 10 '16 at 17:05
  • no it doesn't give you low contrast, it mitigates wide dynamic range, since you probably have blown highlights and good shadows, you want to let the developer do its work on the hightlights. avoid agitating aggressively. Semi-stand is not only for 100 iso films, I did it with Trix. – K'' Aug 10 '16 at 18:02
  • I mentioned 100 ISO but what I meant is that stand developing with 1+100 Rodinal (AFAIK) is used to develop at the native sensitivity. In my case, 100 ISO. – FarO Aug 11 '16 at 8:37

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