I'd like to get into doing some remote lighting, but really don't get the best way to do it.

I've got a Nikon D3100, so no "commander mode" with the built-in flash. My current external flash is a SB-600.


2 Answers 2


You've got a few options:

  • You could use a few universal translators and do it wired.
  • You could use a cheap radio trigger (I personally use the Cowboy Strobist with the D3100 and SB-600).
  • You could use the highly reputed classic Pocket Wizard
  • Or if you want wireless TTL, you could look at MiniTT Pocket Wizards
  • You can use the SU-4 Nikon remote to make any body a Nikon CLS commander (but this is line of sight then).
  • You could use optical slave triggers and trigger with the onboard flash (but this is line of sight then).

I've had good, reliable luck with the cheap Cowboy Strobist radio triggers and think they're a great way to get started.

  • \$\begingroup\$ The 1st link (universal translator) does not seem to work. Could you update it? Do you mean those hot-shoe to PC-Sync converter devices? \$\endgroup\$
    – ysap
    Sep 16, 2011 at 17:36
  • \$\begingroup\$ @ysap the link works fine for me. Its a hot shoe to pc-sync AND 1/8 inch jack (so you can avoid expensive pc sync cords). \$\endgroup\$
    – rfusca
    Sep 16, 2011 at 17:45
  • \$\begingroup\$ The SU-4 isn't a CLS commander (the SU-800 and the higher end flashes are), it is an optical trigger with a trick automatic mode which only really works with the (preflash-less) film TTL flash metering. \$\endgroup\$
    – Ryccardo
    Mar 19, 2013 at 17:28

While I'm not sure of the state of Nikon and remote flash support on the D3100 (though, for some reason, I think it does support it), there are a large variety of radio triggers available on the market ranging from the inexpensive Cactus V4 which work decently (I've used them with studio strobes) to the more expensive RadioPoppers and a whole host in between, some of which will support Nikon TTL for flash.

In any case, as you get into remote/strobist lighting, you'll probably want to move to radio triggers anyways, regardless of your camera support for wireless. The camera options are optical, so suffer from line of sight, distance, etc. Radio is the way to go if you really want control over position and distance.


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