3

I'm transitioning from my Nikon D3200 to a D600.

I have a DX 35mm 1.8, and a 50mm 1.8G.

I'm aware that the D600 can be used in crop-mode so if I put the 35mm lense on it, I will feel a bit more familiar, but my goal is to get used to the full frame.

That being said, I have 2 questions:

1) Besides practice, what are the key fundamentals transition in terms of settings (or habits) when using a FX camera coming from several years of DX photography (example there are a lot more buttons, I would manually handle the ISO on the DX, and with a quick hold, and dial turning, I can switch it easily. on the FX i notice that there is an ISO-auto mode that you can really refine, what would you recommend setting that at as a way to transition to what I was used to shoot with the DX in daylight (i was shooting at 100/200) - with flash (200/400) and low light: 800-3200)

2) What fundamentals neat feature that only exist in the FX, transitioning from a DX camera, that you would use quite frequently in daylight,lowlight, and with flash.

I'm aware that exploration and practice goes a long way, I'm just looking for extra footnotes to the transition from DX to FX.

  • 1
    This might be best separated into two questions: one about how to adjust to a larger format, and one about how to adjust to a camera with more complicated and advanced controls. The two aren't strictly related. – mattdm May 1 '16 at 14:30
  • @mattdm should i do the split now? – azngunit81 May 1 '16 at 20:56
  • That's my suggestion, at least. :) – mattdm May 1 '16 at 21:49
6

The main fundamental thing to get used to is doing the crop math in the other direction with FX lenses. What you're used to seeing as 50mm with your crop body, on full frame, will look like 35mm on your crop would. Having all your glass get wider is the first disconcerting thing you think you're prepared for, that you really really aren't. Particularly when you slap on a telephoto zoom. :D

The other two things you'll end up paying more attention to than previously are likely to be focus accuracy (depth of field decreases, if you compensate for the crop factor difference by getting close to your subject, or using a longer lens), and stabilization. You may end up increasing shutter speed, adjusting your hold on the camera, or using a tripod a bit more.

Overall, though, the main thing to get used to is the vague disappointment you'll find after you've run through all the cool newness of the shiny toy, that your photography skillz essentially remain unchanged, and that it's just a new camera, after all. Maybe one that's a little better on noise, a little shallower on the DoF, a little heavier, a little bigger, a lot easier to handle. But overall, most of the changes you'll run into will be marginal. A stop here, a stop there. It all adds up to a much nicer camera, but it's not going to be a magic pill that instantly turns you into a great photographer, despite the pricetag. There may be a bit of buyer's remorse. Swallow it down. Wait a year. Then try shooting with your older camera again, look over the older camera's images vs. your newer ones, and you'll understand why you did it. :) The time gap is key to showing you how big the difference really is. You may not see all or even most of it right away.

  • 2
    The last paragraph was absolutely the biggest truth about tech upgrades of any sort (photography, computer, etc). Worth +10 if I could. – scottbb May 2 '16 at 19:37
3

Really you are making two transitions here. From a D3200 you need to accustomed to a pro body with dual control-dials, more direct controls and a 100% coverage viewfinder. This would happen if you are to move to a D500 or D7200 instead too, even though these are APS-C cameras.

While you can probably ignore the extra buttons ;) it is best to get accustomed that they are there and make it possible to access more functions without navigating through the menu. You must also try to be aware that there are many more possibilities, types of AF point selection for example and ways to setup the camera. The rear control-dial can be set to Easy ISO for example which lets you control the sensitivity directly from the dial, while the forward dial controls the exposure parameter (or vice-versa, depending on the mode and setup).

The 100% coverage viewfinder is liberating. You no longer have to worry about what may end up in the image after you shoot.

The second transition is due to sensor size and, compared to upgrading to a full-frame body, its usage impact is much less, while its image quality impact is much more. The main thing to learn with using a full-frame body is to pay attention to focus and depth-of-field. You must be more careful to avoid areas that you care about being outside the depth-of-field. That means getting used to selecting larger F/no than before which you can compensate for by raising the ISO to levels which may seem excessive on an APS-C camera.

  • Oh, yes, wrote it backwards. – Itai Apr 30 '16 at 23:32

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.