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I have a Canon 70d and I use the 622c wireless trigger/remote with the YN 565 EX flashes. When setting them on E-TTL, all my shots are overexposed. I've checked the camera and the flashes and all the settings are normal. Using direct flash, not bounced off anything.

I've fixed the problem by setting the flash to -3ev exposure compensation but I feel this shouldn't be needed.

Any ideas what could be happening?

I tried using the flash on-camera. I have a 60d and 70d, and with both I needed to set my flash to -3eV to get the right exposure.

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  • Try using a manual setting that should be way too dark. It seems like I've seen problems with over exposure when the camera settings are on the sensitive side, e.g. wide apertures and high ISO. If that works, then try gradually adjusting settings to see what triggers the overexposure.
    – OldGeeksGuide
    Apr 28, 2015 at 2:52
  • On the 70D, how is the E-TTL II Meter mode set? Evaluative or Average?
    – inkista
    Apr 28, 2015 at 19:43
  • I put the flash on camera, both the 60d and the 70d, still over exposes. Set the camera on manual and to under expose, still overexposes.
    – David
    Apr 28, 2015 at 23:03
  • Eventually check your speedlight and 70D with Canon.
    – Soleil
    Dec 8, 2017 at 22:59

2 Answers 2

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I use a Nikon system (D750 which is a full frame) and Yongnuo YN560-II and am always at -2.7ev, TTL bounced, spot metering, in manual mode with ISO1000, 1/200th second shutter and f2.8 on a 15-30mm, 50mm and 85mm. It works for all of them. My view would be nothing is 'wrong' as such, just a quirk of using aftermarket/non-OEM flash units. I feel that the meter in my cameras is always looking to over expose when in spot metering. If it helps feel free to look through my blog, I swap to manual flash as well but for standard candid shots and the first dance at a wedding it will be TTL. Found here Hope this helps!

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If you have checked all the settings (metering, exposure mode, FEC, flash-zoom, fn-setting,) both on the camera and on the flash unit, and found nothing, I suspect you simply have a faulty unit. One of the ways third-party manufacturers save money is to do virtually no testing or quality control before shipping their products. It then falls to the consumer to check the product and return it if faulty. Testing and quality control are both very expensive, and partially account for why OEM products cost way more than often very similar looking and functioning third-party copies.

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