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I tried to photograph the Northern Lights last night with 60D, kit lens. I had never tried this before. I did figure out the M mode and took some pictures with nice green lights on a 10, 15, 20 and 30 second exposure. I tried the max apertures and a few other settings in the same range-low end. My question with this lens is: what would be a good approach? I noticed I needed to shut off the autofocus or the picture would not be taken, my manual focus was out of focus as I really couldn't see through the camera viewfinder in the dark. Can I use autofocus? And how do I get the camera to take the picture using autofocus? What should I change in my approach?

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    what is wrong with typing "with"? – Digital Lightcraft Feb 19 '14 at 13:48
  • If you're using manual focus, you could try setting the focus to 'infinity', which may be shown as a little symbol like a horizontal 8. Also, try focusing with autofocus on the furthest distant horizon that you can see, then switch to manual focus once it has focused so it doesn't try to focus again (and don't adjust the focus afterwards) – laurencemadill Feb 19 '14 at 14:31
  • Thank you, I did the infinity and also the auto then switch to manual, but I appreciate your response, the response after yours has some decent ideas I'll try tonight. – Shane Feb 19 '14 at 19:52
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You cannot use autofocus through-the-lens, as there is not enough information for the sensors to detect being in-focus. Scenarios when autofocus will not work are described in your User Manual.

You can use LiveView + manual focus, and zoom in with the magnifier button to verify if you are in focus, meanwhile you can use the highest ISO setting to collect as much available light as possible. When you are done with focusing, you can switch ISO back if you want (preferred to avoid high-ISO noise).

Make sure you do not use a too large aperture, as you will end up with a "soft" image. Also do not use a too slow shutter, as you will have motion blur. But you might actually want that as an artistic effect - you will have to determine that.

  • I would imagine with exposures in the 10-30 second range the camera is already mounted on a tripod. – Michael C Feb 19 '14 at 18:52
  • Thanks, I think that makes sense and will try that tonight, appreciate response. – Shane Feb 19 '14 at 19:53
  • @MichaelClark: the aurora itself moves, often fast enough to get considerable motion blur even at 10 seconds. – Michael Borgwardt Feb 20 '14 at 8:46
  • @MichaelBorgwardt: Exactly, that was the thing I was referring to. The faster the shutter, the better. – TFuto Feb 20 '14 at 13:50

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