The focus question and the metering are separate aspects.
Yes, point-focus makes most sense, so you can know it's the focusing on your target.
If you have a continuous focus mode, you should use this over a single focus mode, and the bird will be moving. This does remove the option of focus and then re-composing.
If your photo's are all out of focus, this might be not the focus point problem, but blur from it being hand held, or on a tripod in wind. Also if you are at long zoom lengths the camera is more susceptible to vibration. Even on the a tripod if you have a SLR the mirror flap can induce vibration, and delay shoot can help with this. But to tell if its vibration causing focus problems, the whole picture would be out, where-as with the focus point problem, there will be focused objects, just not the ones you want.
The metering question is hard, as if the bird has high contrast, you will have different result based on which part of the bird the meter point is on. Now this might be why you inclined to spot meter to avoid the bush/sky aspect. If the bird is sitting still-ish, I'd be inclined to manually expose, throw a few shoots again until the exposure is ok, shooting raw helps here also, and using the exposure meter guidance help getting to right faster.