I'm interested in this kind of look. Does anyone know how it can be accomplished within Lightroom 5.

The photographers name is Rog Walker. Not sure if anyone is familiar with his work.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rogwalker/7555940016/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/rogwalker/7374532690/

  • 1
    Start with the EF 858mm f/1.2 L. That's what gives these shots such a distinctive look. – Michael C Jan 9 '14 at 4:11
  • Thanks. I should've been more specific in saying that i'm interested in the post processing. – user25251 Jan 9 '14 at 5:15
  • 4
    Please read the following post and edit your question to more precisely describe the effect you are looking for. meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3881/… – Michael C Jan 9 '14 at 6:23
  • ...Did you ask him about how to create this look? – Dan Wolfgang Jan 10 '14 at 0:28

Since it is not clear which part of the look you want to recreate...

First, you need to shoot with a shallow depth of field (as already mentioned), and at 50mm to 85mm. A prime lens will work best, but just keep your aperture as low as it can get in the lens you have. That will give you the general feel.

In terms of processing, there are a few things going on here, which should be achievable in Lightroom.


Take the Saturation slider down (how much you need to judge with your eyes) to de-sature the image. You may also want to play with the Vibrance slider to increase Vibrance (after you have de-saturated). This is image content dependent however, but I find at times it has a nice effect in the reds/oranges (skin like tones)


If you look closely, in particular the first image, you will notice that whites aren't white, and darks aren't grey/black. There is image toning here. You can do this in two ways in Lightroom (Assuming you have LR 5, if you have an earlier version, only the first option will apply)

  1. Using the Split Toning controls
  2. Using Tone Curves

He seems to be using a lot of 'cooler browns' in both the shadows and the lights, so you'll need to play with both Shadows and Lights in the Split Toning controls, until you find a mix that you like.

If using the Tone Curves, switch from the RGB curve, to the Blues/Red/Greens. Target the Blues and raise the blackpoint. This will be a bit harder to achieve, but you'll have more control.

Overall Contrast

Raise the blacks. Look at the corners of the image, where the vignetting is stronger, and you will see that it is no where near black. This is achieved by raising the black point in the RGB tone curve up a bit. Also keep the overall contrast low, and bring the overall brightness down a bit.


This is both caused by the lens and wide aperture, but also by adding additional vignetting from the Effects panel. Make it round, and keep it in the center.

These are just some general areas that apply to the overall look. It is very content dependent however, as well as personal taste.

Hope this helps.

| improve this answer | |
  • Great answer and welcome to Photo.SE, hope you stick around. – AJ Henderson Jan 9 '14 at 13:26
  • @cavacus - btw, if you don't know about it we have a chat room if you ever want to chat with some of the other regular users. – AJ Henderson Jan 9 '14 at 13:49
  • Cavacas that was well put together. I have to get a bit familiar with messing with the RGB tone curves since i've never worked with it. As far as split toning, i've been trying to get a browns in the shadows and highlights but havent figured out that part yet. – user25251 Jan 10 '14 at 2:21

here is basically two parts.

1. shooting: if you check the EXIF of the photos, it says f/1.2. so, you will need at least f/1.4 if not f/1.2 on your lens. without that, it may be done, but big time in post-processing

2. Color tome: With LR, it is possible, but tough. you will need to:

  • cool down the temperature
  • high vignetting with high feather value
  • playing with the curve, while set at "Mid-contrast", increase the "dark side" ;)

IMO, it's not that tough.

| improve this answer | |
  • 2
    You might want to note that shooting at f/1.2 or f/1.4 is not for the faint of heart. For just the same reasons you choose to do that, it is difficult to do. You have paper-thin depth of field when the lens is that wide open, so you will (not may, but will) have a number of images that are pleasing at first glance, but when examined are not in focus. – Steve Ross Jan 9 '14 at 22:25

Try the bleach bypass or aged photo presets and ... yes ... a very fast lens will give you shallow depth of field. Or a telephoto at a wide aperture. The post-processing presets in Lightroom are ok for a start, but you'll want to fine tune them to get the drama you're looking for.

Edited to add: Here is an example of an image shot at f/1.8, then bleach bypass in LR, lower exposure a bit, and post-crop vignette.

enter image description here

| improve this answer | |
  • As far as bringing up the colors just mess with each colors saturation? – user25251 Jan 10 '14 at 2:18
  • If that's what you're looking for. This was just a quick demo of what ships with Lightroom. – Steve Ross Jan 10 '14 at 2:34

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.