I've got a vehicle green-screen room. Generally speaking, it works great. However, on candy-apple red there is a noticeable problem in post production:

Post Production Green Screen

See the green outline on the trunk and hood of the car? How do I solve this problem? Is this a problem in lighting? A white-balance problem (using a Cannon T3-I with 18% gray card)? Or, is it a problem that can only be solved in post-production on a car-by-car basis? What method would you use to eliminate the green-screen reflection in the photo?

Here is the original if you want to play with a post-production filter, or think you have something that might work:

Green Screen Red Car

Note: You can see the full gallery here.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Have a look at this: photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9418/… which is my very similar problem with chroma key and portraits. It may fix it for you. \$\endgroup\$
    – Joanne C
    Sep 10, 2011 at 0:08
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ I actually always wondered why this type of thing isn't a bigger problem when using green screen. \$\endgroup\$ Sep 10, 2011 at 14:48

4 Answers 4


The green is there and is being reflected by the car. Eliminating it requires post-production which is exactly how its done with for visual effects in movies.

You use a tool called 'Color-Curves' (or similar name depending on the S/W) and basically reduce the amount of green in green areas until it looks natural.

A change in WB is not what you are looking for as it impacts all the image, so you may loose the green but end-up with everything else magenta. Lighting makes no difference since the object you are shooting is reflective.

A polarizer helps reduce the intensity of the reflection in some directions but given the angles and curves of the vehicle, it will not remove the reflection in most areas.

  • \$\begingroup\$ Is this the color-curves method you're speaking of? \$\endgroup\$ Sep 10, 2011 at 4:49
  • \$\begingroup\$ @evan not quite, that method is for correcting white balance and color cast issues. There are various methods for adjusting just one color channel - Curves is one, the Channel Mixer is another. Google will give you plenty of tutorials. \$\endgroup\$ Sep 10, 2011 at 7:05
  • \$\begingroup\$ I am using Sony Vegas, do you know the name of the tool? I'm kind of lost with this answer because you're telling me the name of the tool without telling me what it does or how to do it. Does this work for the whole image? Or, just the part that has excessive green in it? \$\endgroup\$ Sep 12, 2011 at 15:40
  • \$\begingroup\$ Sorry but I have not used that S/W and each one does it differently. The principal of Color Curves is that you select a color to work on (Green in your case) and then you interact to control what happens to that color (in your case, you lower the amount of Green). So basically you are removing green from green areas. Yes, I know, it sounds a little strange. \$\endgroup\$
    – Itai
    Sep 12, 2011 at 15:58
  • \$\begingroup\$ Can you watch this clip really quick -- is this what you're talking of youtube.com/watch?v=MbS_Taf7rfI&feature=related#t=56 \$\endgroup\$ Sep 12, 2011 at 16:12

Why don't you take one shot with the green screen and another (from exactly the same position) with a white screen covering the green screen? The green screen will identify pixels to be replaced by scenery in the white screen picture. The white screen doesn't have to be perfectly white or even uniform; its role is to supply the desired lighting for the car itself.

  • 6
    \$\begingroup\$ +1 for solving the problem in reality while keeping it easy, fast and cheap and (I would say) getting better results. Instead of white (if that gave strong undesired light reflection from the background) one could use black or grey, or some color - except green on cherry red ;-) \$\endgroup\$
    – MattiaG
    Sep 12, 2011 at 22:48

In addition to Itai's post production setting, two things come to mind for in the studio that are commonly used for video green screen:

  1. distance. 8 to 10 feet of it between the green screen and the object. MINIMUM.
  2. a linear polarizer, rotate it around to find the best angle to kill the bounce.
  • \$\begingroup\$ Note: Whether you use a linear of circular polarising filter depends on what kind of camera you use. \$\endgroup\$
    – Guffa
    Sep 10, 2011 at 12:30
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    \$\begingroup\$ Assuming that OP needs a specific perspective, that is, a set distance from the subject and a reasonably large green background, then I am not sure a larger separation of the background will help here. The reason is that the further away it is, the larger it needs to be to allow for enough scenery background superimposition. This way, the relative angles from all parts of the green screen to the car and to the camera remain the same, and thus the reflections remain the same. \$\endgroup\$
    – ysap
    Sep 10, 2011 at 14:12
  • \$\begingroup\$ @guffa: huh? I have both for my canon, it's just a difference in what kind of polarity the glass in the filter has. \$\endgroup\$
    – cabbey
    Sep 10, 2011 at 16:41
  • \$\begingroup\$ @cabbey: No, the difference is that a circular polarisation filter has a depolarisation filter behind the polarisation filter so that the light that comes out is not polarised. You need that for some SLR cameras. Se: photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1368/… \$\endgroup\$
    – Guffa
    Sep 10, 2011 at 17:58
  • \$\begingroup\$ mechanics of polarization aside, I still don't get what that has to do with what king of camera you have. \$\endgroup\$
    – cabbey
    Sep 10, 2011 at 19:21

So, I'm doing the same thing.

I work for an off-road manufacturer; we make skid plates, roll cages, roll cage add-ons, etc., and I take and edit the images for the site and media. I envy your greenscreen room, as I have to get creative and hang 2x20x30 green screens as needed.

Anyways, on to the point here: I run into this same issue. Green works for me because the items are black, red, and blue, and if they are green, it's a neon green, so it's not that bad.

Most of the time, on the black items, glossy or textured, I can adjust hue/saturation to get the green out. Some of the yellow is left over and the cyan, and I am left with a pretty cool looking image, and the color reflections come out right for the most part and look normal.

When working with the chrome, same kinda thing, but it works out. After it's selected and cut out, I filter the unwanted color, sometimes having to layer parts that are affected more than others, and use different hue layers, and then merge them with the parts to make them look correct.

Now my issue is, with the new colors, like neon pastel blue, and some of these bright colors, it's hard to edit without taking away from the "brilliance" of the original images.

So I feel there's a better way to get this green bleed over reflection out of the items and reflection?

  • \$\begingroup\$ Green screen room is produced by Dealermade \$\endgroup\$ Sep 3, 2019 at 18:25
  • \$\begingroup\$ thank you , ive never heard of it before, and defiantly envy one lol \$\endgroup\$
    – Vince
    Sep 4, 2019 at 19:01

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