1
\$\begingroup\$

What filter should I use to avoid whitened images (blown highlights) caused by intense daylight? At the moment I am only using an UV Filter, but it doesn't solve the whole problem.

I am a newbie in photography, and I've recently bought a Nikon DSLR.

Improve this question
\$\endgroup\$
2
  • \$\begingroup\$ maybe worth posting a link to a picture that shows the problem. \$\endgroup\$
    – rapscalli
    Commented Aug 31, 2011 at 20:17
  • \$\begingroup\$ If it's sky that gets white, see this question - photo.stackexchange.com/questions/15204/… \$\endgroup\$
    – Imre
    Commented Aug 31, 2011 at 20:18

3 Answers 3

Reset to default
8
\$\begingroup\$

Do you mean over-exposed? If so, use +/- button. That is Exposure-Compensation and lets you make things darker by going negative.

A UV filter does nothing for brightness, usually makes things worst only. Take off and replace with polarizer that darkens the sky (sometimes, if not cloudy).

Improve this answer
\$\endgroup\$
1
  • \$\begingroup\$ Since he is a new photographer you may want to explain to him why you think UV filters only make things worse and a link to what a polarizing filter does and why they only work sometimes. \$\endgroup\$
    – Patrick Hughes
    Commented Feb 16, 2012 at 16:09
4
\$\begingroup\$

If you are indeed referring to your images having too much contrast to allow for both a properly exposed subject and sky, then there are a few options.

  1. As Zak stated, you could use exposure compensation to darken the entire image (this might make the non-sky portion of the image too dark though)
  2. Use a graduated neutral density filter. This will selectively darken one part of an image while leaving the other part alone. This is the old-school method. While it typically limits the transition between the filtered and unfiltered parts to a straight line, it does allow you to fix things at the time of the shot without having to spend time tweaking it on the computer afterwards.
  3. HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography. This is the hi-tech way to do things. This requires that you take multiple shots of the same scene at different exposures and use software to combine them into one image where both the highlights and shadows are well-exposed.
Improve this answer
\$\endgroup\$
1
\$\begingroup\$

If you want longer exposure during daylight you would use a grey filter. You only need that if you want reduce the shutter speed to a lower value.

Improve this answer
\$\endgroup\$
2
  • \$\begingroup\$ Welcome to Photo.SE! Perhaps you should explain a bit more how would longer exposure help with avoiding overexposure in intense daylight? Maybe I'm dumb, but the connection is not quite clear to me. \$\endgroup\$
    – Imre
    Commented Sep 1, 2011 at 7:41
  • \$\begingroup\$ A grey filter is just grey coloured glass. There are different numbers that indicate the darkness of the filter. Imagine you have a normal exposure with F4.0 and 1/1800sec, after putting the grey filter on less light is going through the lens to the sensor and the image would be underexposed in the same settings. Thus it allows you to choose F4.0 and less shutter-speed (e.g. 1/30sec). Some very strong filters allow you exposures up to minutes during daylight without over exposure. \$\endgroup\$
    – Alexander Oh
    Commented Sep 1, 2011 at 8:06

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.