I have this [now discontinued] PolarPro shoulder strap. The strap is great, except for the annoying, and dangerous, issue with the strap loops on the bottom coming loose overtime. I have developed a habit of checking the strap every now and then and to pull it back up.

I am wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or can think of a solution I can't. I am thing of just sewing the two parts together... although I am not sure if that will hold some of my heavier setups (A7IV + Tamron 35-150) or possibly ruin the integrity of the strap. The other idea is to get some alternative buckles that may be better than these metal one, like these plastic ones from AliExpress. I think something with "teeth" would be better, but I can't find any.

Strap buckle view front

Strap buckle view back

  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ Do you have enough length on the ends of the straps to twist them around and run them through the top of the buckle again? If they are slipping then that means there isn't enough friction. Poking them through the buckle could add more friction. \$\endgroup\$
    – Peter M
    Mar 23 at 14:32
  • \$\begingroup\$ This seems apt \$\endgroup\$
    – Valorum
    Mar 25 at 17:41

6 Answers 6


Reverse the direction the buckle is laced and back lace it; I've always laced camera straps this way... This is how the tri-glide buckle on a climbing saddle is laced and it is very secure..,

When laced in this way, sliding the buckle and back loop/end together adjusts the length of the free loop/strap.

Set the minimum size of free loop/max strap length before lacing the back loop. It can get pretty tight getting three layers through the buckle, but I haven't found one I couldn't make work yet.

Edit: I found an old drawing from a Minolta SLR owner's manual that had the basic lacing diagramed; so I edited it to add the double back ending... it looks a lot better than my crude drawing.

enter image description here


Another method is one that Nikon manuals show. Whilst being more difficult to execute and take apart, the tag-end is tucked away so it doesn't tickle you.

From Nikon D90 user's manual
This image is from the Nikon D90 User's Manual.

  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ In my testing, that's actually the worst way to lace a tri-glide... it slips far easier. \$\endgroup\$ Mar 24 at 13:55
  • \$\begingroup\$ This is the way I've always done it. Never had one slip out over the past four decades. \$\endgroup\$
    – Michael C
    Mar 26 at 13:43
  • \$\begingroup\$ I use this technique and don't have slippage issues with a kit weighing 3.3 kg (7.2 lbs) hanging around my neck. \$\endgroup\$
    – qrk
    Mar 26 at 19:08

I have go-pro stuff and daypacks that have similar strapping.

My solution was to "add friction" by adjusting it all correctly, and then lock it down at points where two straps lay together.

The reversible solution is a cable tie, zip tie, or zap strap around two nylon straps where they overlap. Downside, this can make flat straps into uncomfortable cylinders. And it looks a bit amateur.

If you're confident in the adjustment, a blob of superglue holds the two nylon straps permanently. Note, this will make the strap stiff in that spot.
On the same vein is adding a row of stitching across the strap.

Third option is to add a Snap or a "dome" in the free end of the strap, and attach the matching rivet to the other strap, so that the adjustment is perfect.
You can add several rivets for one dome cap, allowing some adaptability.

Finally the best solution is to replace the nylon strap with the same width, but thicker. These nylon straps get thin with usage, which allows slippage. I fixed an old backpack, and the modern strapping is much better than the 80's strap that had decades of use on it.

  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ If you stitch (and I would), I suggest not using black thread on a black strap, in case you need to undo it later. Use something you can see. And because it's just anti-creep rather than needing real strength, just a couple of stitches will do (again, easier to unpick, unlike bar tacking which is the "proper" way to sew webbing) \$\endgroup\$
    – Chris H
    Mar 25 at 13:59

If the loose ends are long enough (which looks to be the case), could you just tie a knot?


This looks very similar to the (oldschool) military webbing we had, which had the same problem. We used to just roll up the excess flat, and tape it up with black electrical tape.

You could also use clips meant for molle attachments to clip it in place - googling for 'molle clips' gave some options

Unlike some of the options, both of these are things you can undo fairly easily.


I feel no answer here would be complete without mentioning; SuperGlue.

  • 2
    \$\begingroup\$ Sewing the straps coming in and out of buckle is easier to undo if needed. \$\endgroup\$
    – n0rd
    Mar 26 at 0:24

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