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I have an olympus trip 35 film camera, and I just had 2 film rolls scanned and developed. Most of the results are blurry or out of focus. The photos that are taken with flash are sharp, and some close-up shots. Other than that, all are completely blurry - which doesn’t seem like motion blur.

What do you think could be the problem? Is it something about the camera, or just the zone focusing?

enter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description here

taken with flash: enter image description here

taken in broad daylight: enter image description here enter image description here

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    \$\begingroup\$ It would help if we could see an example. \$\endgroup\$
    – Tetsujin
    Aug 13, 2023 at 18:54
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    \$\begingroup\$ Since the flash photos are sharp, it must be slow shutter speeds and camera shake, when flash is not used. \$\endgroup\$ Aug 13, 2023 at 19:47
  • \$\begingroup\$ I added some photos hehe \$\endgroup\$ Aug 14, 2023 at 5:59
  • \$\begingroup\$ Sorry for the silly question: are you sure you set the focus ring to the correct distances for all the photos? The photos' appearances can be explained with focus set to a closeup distance (the shortest nominal focus distance being 0.9m) and not adjusted e.g. to infinity for the outdoor scenes. \$\endgroup\$ Aug 14, 2023 at 8:52
  • \$\begingroup\$ Not a silly question! Everyone has asked the same thing. I’ve tried my best to follow the correct distance as much as possible - most of those are taken in 1.5m, and for the last two, either 3m or infinity. \$\endgroup\$ Aug 14, 2023 at 12:40

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From the different outcomes of your photos, I looks like a problem with the focussing system. The lens itself seems okay, as the cat photo shows. All the other photos are blurry (de-focussed), and the different degree of blurriness can be explained with the lighing conditions: bright light makes the camera use a smaller aperture, thus making focus errors less visible (greater depth of field). The inside shots are worse than the outside ones.

I'd recommend to do some systematic focus tests. This costs you one film roll.

Select a scene where you have objects in different distances, from 0.5 meter to infinity. e.g. a brick wall or a regular-tiles pavement, something where you can later identify the various distances.

Make sure the scene is not in bright sunlight. The camera's exposure system should not stop down to f/22, but shoot wide open, ideally at f/2.8.

Then, take photos of the scene with different focus ring settings, from 0.9m to infinity. And note down the settings you used (or place a marker in the scene at the place that you expect to be focussed).

When you get the photos, check which part of the scene is sharp.

  • Does it even change with the focus setting or does it stay the same? That hints at the focus system being stuck, or detached from the settings ring.
  • Where is the focus relative to your expectation? If the "sharp distance" changes with the settings, but is always closer (or further away) than your expectation, then it might be possible to recalibrate it.

Anyway, you will probably need a technician to fix the problem, and you have to decide whether it's worth that effort.

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