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I've very recently gotten into developing film at home. For the longest time I'd take my film into a store and get them to do it for me leaving results like this.

enter image description here

However after developing at home I'm finding that I can never get the colour to look anywhere this good. For example here's a few photos from the most recent roll I developed.

(view of hills) https://imgur.com/2feYnBJ (Street) https://imgur.com/2r7LEHN (Friends) https://imgur.com/lJfbHlK

(all of these shots are from the same roll)

I have made sure the water is exactly at 38 degrees while doing the developing along with making the chemicals that temp.

Does anybody have any ideas what the problem could be and or if you have a solution to it.

Thank you.

Edit

I scanned them at home using a cheap scanner. And these are the raw images out of the scanner.

Original ScanOriginal scan enter image description here

Using new scanner

Using my new scannerUsing old scanner

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  • 1
    Are you now also scanning the film yourself, unlike before?
    – timvrhn
    Jul 26 at 13:38
  • Are these the raw images from the scanner? Because there is some weirdness in the histogram of the red channel.
    – xenoid
    Jul 26 at 16:41
  • I am scanning them myself at home. Before they did everything from development to scanning.
    – Hamish
    Jul 26 at 23:37
  • These are the raw images from the scanner
    – Hamish
    Jul 26 at 23:38
  • 1
    So this looks like a scanning, not development, problem. You'll need to tweak settings or get another scanner. What scanner and settings are you using?
    – xiota
    Jul 27 at 1:54
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Your blueish tinted image looks like a case of "direct color inversion of scan". Most color negative films have an orange mask (see this question for more detail) to them, which when you invert the colors would yield a blueish tint like yours. Because of this mask, you need to to adjust the "white balance" (although it's more complicated than a simple white balance) of the scanned negative. One common way to deal with the orange mask is to adjust the color curves of the negative image, such that the piece of the film outside the exposed frame renders white. (The unexposed part only have the negative of black, which should be white).

For more information, see for instance this this page or this (which also shows an example of a direct inversion). Because of the somewhat complex nature of correctly "removing" the orange mask, it's generally recommended to get a dedicated software for negative inversion (often included with scanners made for scanning negatives). Negative lab pro is a popular Lightroom plugin, but comes at a cost of ~$100. For the Linux users out there, negative2positive is an open-source alternative for converting negative scans to positive.

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