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I'm new to photography and think I have a good grasp of the fundamentals of the exposure triangle. When using flash in a controlled studio environment, I want to set my ISO at 100 and compensate elsewhere for exposure.

I am using a Canon EOS RP Mirrorless. I'm using a trigger with speedlights on manual slave so I can test and control flash exposures light by light. The problem is when I set ISO to 100, the camera is exposing or metering for ambient light and shows constantly underexposed. Which constantly boosts by ISO to around 1600 and blows out every 3rd shot I take. I have to keep manually putting the camera back to 100 ISO, and this just continues. I can see that it is underexposing but I have tried every setting. Tried disabling AUTO ISO and FE Safety. I try changing my flash settings to manual but it doesn't let me. I think because when I have a trigger it defaults to group mode. I just cannot find an answer anywhere online.

I have my ISO Speed range from 100 - 12800. I set my ISO speed to 100 but it continually reverts to AUTO when metering. I am obviously doing something fundamentally wrong but the penny has not dropped. Essentially the camera is metering without seeing FEC. But I can't select Manual to change it, it only goes to Group Mode. Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to use any ISO higher than 100 because I want to understand.

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    Let me check. You say in the title it is in manual mode? Does this refer to mode of flash, or is the dial on the EOS RP camera in the M position? What are your other settings (aperture, exposure time)? What lens are you using?
    – juhist
    Jul 9, 2019 at 9:22
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    Also, RP doesn't have integrated flash and thus no way to trigger speedlight slaves. How exactly are you triggering the slaves? Canon ST-E2? Canon ST-E3-RT? Or something else?
    – juhist
    Jul 9, 2019 at 9:23
  • I'm new to photography and think I have a good grasp of the fundamentals of the exposure triangle, but when using flash in a controlled studio environment, I want to set my ISO at 100 and compensate elsewhere for exposure. — you do realize that the only options available to you in a flash lit scene are ISO, aperture, and strobe power level, right?
    – OnBreak.
    Jul 9, 2019 at 11:49
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    Shooting in the dark (pun not intended), check bracketing, especially flash bracketing.
    – K. Minkov
    Jul 9, 2019 at 16:28
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    When you said blows out every 3rd shot I take, my mind immediately jumped to bracketing. Have you checked that you don't have bracketing enabled?
    – scottbb ♦
    Jul 9, 2019 at 16:46

2 Answers 2

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Update: Maybe this helps someone in the future reading this. I found that the problem was not with the camera at all. It was the flash trigger. (The transmitter) I was using a Viper TTL System. I emailed them and told them of the problem. They checked it and found that there was a glitch. A few weeks later they emailed me (as promised) and sent me a link to update the firmware. ISO is staying at 100 now. Thanks for help everyone. It is much appreciated :-)

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Something does not make sense here. I would start w/o the trigger and flashes. Set the camera's top dial to M (manual) and disable auto ISO... the camera should not change any setting for you under any conditions (unless automatic bracketing is enabled).

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  • Yes I agree Steven. It works fine without the flash. As soon as that trigger is added, it goes to auto ISO. I can't work it out. I can set min ISO to 100 and max to 200, but still, that's a stop difference I shouldn't have to factor in. It's a mystery. ?
    – Tod Woodward
    Jul 12, 2019 at 2:29

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