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I just got started in photography this year, and I am looking to buy my first lens.

I am mostly focused in astrophotography (meaning pictures of the night sky, not through a telescope) and landscape photography.

I got a Nikon D5500 with the included lens (18-55mm VR) but I am torn between some very nice options, both the Rokinon 16MAF-N 16mm f/2.0 and Rokinon 10mm F2.8 ED AS NCS CS seem to be the top contenders (price to performance wise). checking online the first one seems to be the best option for astrophotography due to the amount of light it can gather, but the ultra wide FOV of the second one seems better for landscape, am I correct on that? and if so, is ultra wide really that good for landscapes? Would it be really worth it to pay extra for a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 PRO DX II to be able to put filters on the lens?

Lastly, if you know any better option within a 400$ budget, please let me know!

Thanks beforehand for your help!

closed as off-topic by mattdm, Abdul Quraishi, scottbb, xiota, Hueco Nov 29 '18 at 20:51

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Tokina AT-X 116 PRO DX-II 11-16mm f/2.8 Lens for Nikon F check it out from this link https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/882236-REG/Tokina_atx116prodxn_ii_AT_X_116_PRO_DX_II.html

This lens price is 369$ according to B & H store

  • Thanks! That one looks great! and that's a nice price! I will be getting it for sure! – ArimaFaign Nov 28 '18 at 23:33
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Here is a write up from Lonely Speck that honestly is fairly complete in the information to help you identify the lenses most suitable for Astro Photography.

https://www.lonelyspeck.com/lenses-for-milky-way-photography/

To more specifically answer your question, in terms between the two Rokinon lenses, they would both be suitable lenses for what you are looking to do. The wider lenses will exhibit a lot more lens distortion, so make sure that is something you want in your artistic vision of your composition. A certain degree of this can be fixed via post, but 100% of it will not be able to be removed, especially more exaggerated distortion in a 10mm lens. As for the F/ stop, you are really only losing 1 stop of light going from the 16mm to 10mm. With cameras these days and the ISO performance, this really shouldn't impact the end image much.

In regards to super wide angles for landscapes, I personally consider anything wider than 24mm on a full frame camera super wide (wider than 18mm on APS-C). Better for landscape is really subjective and really what you are looking to do with the image. Super wides are great for landscape as it allows for a larger field of view, but does come with some required composition knowledge to make moving images. If you shoot with a ultra wide lens, generally you want a strong foreground object or your image will look rather flat and boring.

enter image description here

Here is an example of a photo I captured at Mystery Island in Vanuatu with a 21mm F/2.8. I used the tree in the foreground to frame the landscape. If I didn't have a foreground element, the photo would not be as moving.

Here is another image I shot in Fiji without a foreground image, while still a decent shot, not quite as moving because of the lack of a strong foreground element.

enter image description here

Now below here is a photo I shot with a 35mm - which the composition of this image is a bit better without a strong foreground element.

enter image description here

For astrophotography, the benefits of the Tokina lens is not as big of a benefit. Really the best things you will get from Tokina is the ability to autofocus (which with astrophotography is rather pointless) and their better QC (Odds of getting a bad lens are lower). Now with that, if you plan to do other photography other than astrophotography, you gain the flexibility of having the auto-focus which makes other types of photography easier. Landscapes, not really as important, but for say portrait photography, would make life easier.

enter image description here

Shot with a Tamron 15-30mm F/2.8

Another thing to ensure you check out when doing astrophotography is this exposure calculator based upon your lens, aperture - which then tells your your ISO and exposure speed to ensure you don't get star trails.

https://www.lonelyspeck.com/milky-way-exposure-calculator/

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