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I recently bought a second-hand Canon 760D

Now, when I push the shutter button half-way, it already takes a picture, but only if the shutter time is short (enough light). Then, when I press the button fully, I get another picture.

I would expect that pushing the button half-way doesn't release the shutter and instead only focuses.

Is that a configuration issue or is there a physical defect of the button?

Googling didn't show any other user having this problem, but probably I used the wrong words while searching

  • I've never heard of a configuration like that. Someone who knows more about your specific camera model should be able to answer more definitively... Do you happen to have any bracketing modes enabled? Some cameras take all bracket shots with a single shutter press, while others require multiple presses. It's not exactly what you describe, but could be related... Also, if you reset settings to default and problem doesn't go away, it's probably a hardware problem. – xiota Oct 28 '18 at 5:53
  • On my 70D, the C-FnIII group of settings contains settings for buttons (but not one for this). You can try to reset the camera to factory settings (possibly just for theC-FnIII settings, or for all). Also, a wired shutter release can tell you if it is a camera setting (works the same as the camera button) or a contact problem (wired release works as expected). – xenoid Oct 28 '18 at 9:49
  • I already did a factory reset and did again, C-Fn settings are all to 0. I don't have wired shutter. What's weird: For testing, I enabled continuous shooting mode, but the half-press picture is still only one. Only if I press fully, I get a picture series – Daniel Alder Oct 28 '18 at 17:26
  • @DanielAlder [C-Fn 14:Custom Controls] is not reset by a factory reset or by a C-Fn reset. But it should not matter. There's no option in [C-Fn 14:Custom Controls] that enables recording an image with a shutter button half press. – Michael C Oct 29 '18 at 4:30
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I've had cameras in the past with very sensitive shutter buttons. Sometimes what was intended by me to be a half press was enough pressure to result in a full press. The resulting vibration of the camera as the mirror, shutter, and shutter reset mechanism were actuated was usually enough to disengage the full press and the effect was very much like what you describe. Practice a bit with your camera and see if that might be the case.

Regardless of the camera's configuration, if the mirror is cycling, the shutter is operating, and an image is being recorded to the memory card upon an actual half press of the shutter button, your camera is malfunctioning. There is no configuration option for the EOS 77D (or any other Canon EOS camera of which I'm aware) that enables an image to be recorded when the shutter button is half pressed. Images should only be recorded with a full press of the shutter button.

Like xenoid advises in the comments to the question, I'd recommend trying a wired cable release (you can get a generic for about $5 on amazon or eBay) with a two stage button. The cheaper wired releases would probably be better in this regard, as there is more of a difference in the "feel" between a half press and full press compared to your camera's shutter button.

  • If the malfunction continues with a half press of the wired release, then the issue is not in your shutter button itself but in the way the camera responds to the shutter button's position.
  • If the issue is not present when you half press the button on the wired remote, then the issue is probably in the contacts in the shutter button and the camera is interpreting that as a very short duration full press.
  • Thanks. The phrase in bold very much describes what it looks like. Will probably try to repair it myself after my travel.. – Daniel Alder Oct 31 '18 at 19:06
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I post it as an answer, because it helps around the problem, but doesn't actually solve it:

Using back-button AF, the AF button (on the front side) replaces half-press shutter while half-press shutter replaces full-press shutter (the latter because of the defect). This way, I'm able to use even slower lenses which otherwise cannot autofocus before the shutter is released.

In short, I had to set C.Fn-10 (Shutter/AE lock button) to 1 (AE lock/AF).

More detailed in this very nice post: How do I enable back-button AF on the 760D

Needless to say, I would much more prefer a fully-working camera and will still look around for options to fix this in another way.

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