Could you please give me some advice about a speed booster? I have a Canon EOS 750D. Lately I have been taking quite a few night event photos. I do not have a fast lens (and can't afford one) and my aperture/f-stop can only go to f/4 - f/5.6 and I have to up my ISO, which I hate doing (I hate noise on a photo).

I saw an article that said a speed booster can give you an extra f-stop or two. Unfortunately, I do not have the necessary knowledge to know which one will work/what to look for or even if it will work as I have EF-S lenses.

The Metabones speed booster range can be expensive (for me at least) and I don't want to spend all that money and then not have it work.

Can you please give me some advice, or do you know of any other adapters that might work or techniques/setting I can use? It will be greatly appreciated.


2 Answers 2


Just FYI, a new EF 50mm f/1.8 STM or a new EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM is about US$130 (at the time of this writing). That's less than half the price of a Metabones Speed Booster, so your assumption that you can't afford a fast lens isn't exactly correct, if you're willing to give up zoom capability and go with a prime lens.

The speedboosters are wide angle converters for adapting SLR lenses to mirrorless, and reducing the focal length reduces the lens's max. aperture, because the f-number is a ratio of the focal length / aperture diameter. Reduce the focal length, you reduce the f-number. But you cannot use them on Canon EOS mount cameras, because they're made for mirrorless cameras (Fuji X, micro four-thirds (Olympus/Panasonic), or Sony E-mount).

Other techniques you can consider doing without getting a new lens would be learning to use a flash, or learning how to ETTR (expose-to-the-right) and post-process for noise. A high ISO setting, by itself, doesn't actually increase noise as much as underexposure can. It could be that attempting to use a lower ISO setting is causing you to underexpose.

Also, with Canon cameras, the 1/3 EV ISO settings are done by digital push/pull processing. It's generally said that using the -1/3EV settings will result in less noise than the +1/3EV settings or whole stop settings, so using a multiple of 160 for your ISO setting (160, 320, 640, 1250), which is essentially doing ETTR in-camera, may help with noise.

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    \$\begingroup\$ In addition to the two Canon lenses losted, there are few "value" third party lenses on the market that are also less than the normal price of a metabones speedbooster. The Yongnuo 35mm f/2 ($90), 50mm f/1.8 ($55), 85mm f/1.8 ($180), and 100mm f/2 ($160), for instance. The Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM ($180 -new), or used/refurbished copies of the EF 85mm f/1.8 USM and 100mm f/2 USM can also be picked up for about the same price or just a tad more than a MB Speedbooster. \$\endgroup\$
    – Michael C
    Commented Jul 31, 2018 at 8:15
  • \$\begingroup\$ While a full frame speed booster from canon ef will not work, there is a chance that a medium format to ef-s or ef might exist due to the bigger flange focal distance of medium format. If you can find something like this you might be able to use vintage medium format lenses. Doubthfull if this will bee cheaper thou. \$\endgroup\$
    – lijat
    Commented Jul 31, 2018 at 18:29

There does not appear to be a focal reducer to adapt lenses to EF-S bodies. The problem is there is no room between the lens and body to put additional optics.

As @inkista states, you are better off using a flash or purchasing a fast, inexpensive lens, such as a nifty fifty.


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