Timeline for Advice needed for purchasing a new camera or/and lens
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
15 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jun 20, 2011 at 16:18 | comment | added | Aquarius_Girl | You have been too helpful. Now, understanding the zoom and the focal length is altogether a different topic, for which it is better for me to start a new thread. thanks again. | |
| Jun 20, 2011 at 16:13 | comment | added | Aquarius_Girl | and what is this "Please avoid extended discussions in comments. Would you like to automatically move this discussion to chat?". I don't want to move anything to chat! That'll scatter the info. | |
| Jun 20, 2011 at 15:03 | comment | added | Kerri Shotts | @Anisha, the reason your aperture changes to f/4.5 as you zoom to the maximum is because your lens isn't capable of a constant aperture throughout the zoom range. This is a feature of many lenses, including various professional lenses, because it is easier to make a lens that has a variable aperture than a constant one. (The lenses also tend to be lighter and cheaper.) There's no way around it, unfortunately, except to grab a lens that has a constant aperture (which means that as you zoom your exposure don't change), but these are typically expensive. | |
| Jun 20, 2011 at 4:57 | comment | added | Aquarius_Girl | Thanks for being too helpful :hattip: I have also noticed that when I zoom to the maximum in my camera, the f raises to 4.5, automatically. Is that a flaw or can be advantageous in some way? | |
| Jun 20, 2011 at 3:34 | vote | accept | Aquarius_Girl | ||
| Jun 20, 2011 at 3:34 | vote | accept | Aquarius_Girl | ||
| Jun 20, 2011 at 3:34 | |||||
| Jun 20, 2011 at 3:33 | vote | accept | Aquarius_Girl | ||
| Jun 20, 2011 at 3:33 | |||||
| Jun 19, 2011 at 18:38 | comment | added | Kerri Shotts | For your dark background problem, you could either let the exposure sit for a while longer with no other lights, or you could "paint" the background with flashes/lights which would cause the background to become visible (assuming a bright enough light), OR, you could use two exposures -- one for your tubelight and another taken without it, exposed for the background and then merge the two in post. | |
| Jun 19, 2011 at 18:37 | comment | added | Kerri Shotts | Manual Focus is wonderful, if you have decent eyes and if your camera permits accurate viewing of your focus. Some cameras will zoom in automatically so you can focus better, but manual focus is far better with an optical viewfinder (IMO) -- except that you have to trust your eyes that you can see when focus is achieved. | |
| Jun 19, 2011 at 18:35 | comment | added | Kerri Shotts | A circular polarizer is a lens attachment (and you may find some that work on compact bodies) that deflects light coming in at certain angles. This can mean bluer skies and such, but also works wonders with reflections in water or glass where you may wish to see through the glass (but not see your reflection), or with water where you want to see the reflection, but not what's underneath the water. Depending on your camera, there may be filter adapters that you could get. | |
| Jun 19, 2011 at 18:34 | comment | added | Kerri Shotts | I'll go one-by-one here: First, the larger the sensor, the shorter your depth of field, which is essentially the part of the image that is in focus. Your aperture (F/#) also has a part to play in this, but f/8 on a large sensor will still have a bit of background blur, whereas f/8 on a compact camera sensor will have everything in sharp focus. So f/1 will blur your background, but a larger sensor will blur the background more (and leave less in focus). This can be a good or bad thing, depending on your creative needs. For Macro work, it's hard to balance aperture (DoF) vs. light vs. focus. | |
| Jun 19, 2011 at 15:43 | comment | added | Aquarius_Girl | Manual focus is a new thing for me, I'll look up how to do it, thanks. And AFA the burning tubelight is concerned, I have had those shots before, but the background in the photo turns out to be black when I go increasing the shutter speed, that's the problem. | |
| Jun 19, 2011 at 15:41 | comment | added | Aquarius_Girl | I'll look up what is "circular polarizer", but for that I guess I'll have to purchase new camera body. You said "your camera exposes for the middle", what does that mean? BTW, I always shoot in fully manual. | |
| Jun 19, 2011 at 15:37 | comment | added | Aquarius_Girl | Thanks Kerri, You said "you need to realize that a big sensor = tiny depth of field" I am not sure if I understand that correctly, all I know is if I have f 1.0, that's going to blur out the background of the subject, is that correct? | |
| Jun 16, 2011 at 20:02 | history | answered | Kerri Shotts | CC BY-SA 3.0 |