In case those 10 pushed shots are of great importance, there is a method to develop then without ruining (most of) the unpushed frames. This method requires scissors, a darkroom or changing bag, some basic maths and a dose of luck. Also, this will only work if the pushed frames are consecutive and on one end of the roll.

Things you have to know before you proceed

• The length of film before the first frame or the length of film after the last frame depending on whether the pushed frames are first or last on the row. You can determine this by looking at negative strips shot before with this camera.
• The amount of pushed frames (in this case 10)
• The length of the pushed frames
• How to handle scissors (most people will be able to handle this)

The method

1. Calculate the sum of the length from the first bullet with the length from the third bullet.
2. Mark the length on a tape measure and lock it, or use a piece of string (or any other material) at the calculated length
3. In a darkroom or changing bag, pull the film out of the canister. This can be done by putting two sided tape on a flexible strip of plastic or paper and inserting it into the canister until you think you might have a hold on the film. Then slowly pull out the strip. Make sure you have a light-tight container (or two if the pushed frames are at the end of the roll).
4. Using the tape measure/string, cut the film with an excess of the length of one or two frames, so you won't cut through the middle of one of the pushed frames. If the pushed frames are first on the roll, you cut the first strip you pull out of the roll. If the pushed frames are last on the roll, you remove the film entirely from the canister and cut the last bit of the film strip.
5. If the pushed frames are the first on the roll, rewind the rest of the roll back into the canister and place the cut strip in a light-tight container. If not, place both cut film strips in light-tight containers. You could use, for example, a bag for darkroom paper or a developing tank.
6. a) The tricky part is to get these strips developed. Many places that offer developing use fully automated systems and it is not unlikely their employees, expecting film rolls instead of loose strips, will mishandle the film. Therefore, make sure you explicitly communicate the state of the film strips, how they are packaged, and how they should be developed (mark the difference between the pushed strip and the unpushed strip.
   b) Develop yourself. In case you were thinking of starting to develop film yourself, now may be the time to do so. It would save you a lot of hassle were you to develop yourself, because you won't have to rely on a lab which could possibly mistreat the film strips given their unusual state.

In case those 10 pushed shots are of great importance, there is a method to develop then without ruining (most of) the unpushed frames. This method requires scissors, a darkroom or changing bag, some basic maths and a dose of luck. Also, this will only work if the pushed frames are consecutive and on one end of the roll.

Things you have to know before you proceed

• The length of film before the first frame or the length of film after the last frame depending on whether the pushed frames are first or last on the row. You can determine this by looking at negative strips shot before with this camera.
• The amount of pushed frames (in this case 10)
• The length of the pushed frames
• How to handle scissors (most people will be able to handle this)

The method

1. Calculate the sum of the length from the first bullet with the length from the third bullet.
2. Mark the length on a tape measure and lock it, or use a piece of string (or any other material) at the calculated length
3. In a darkroom or changing bag, pull the film out of the canister. This can be done by putting two sided tape on a flexible strip of plastic or paper and inserting it into the canister until you think you might have a hold on the film. Then slowly pull out the strip. Make sure you have a light-tight container (or two if the pushed frames are at the end of the roll).
4. Using the tape measure/string, cut the film with an excess of the length of one or two frames, so you won't cut through the middle of one of the pushed frames. If the pushed frames are first on the roll, you cut the first strip you pull out of the roll. If the pushed frames are last on the roll, you remove the film entirely from the canister and cut the last bit of the film strip.
5. If the pushed frames are the first on the roll, rewind the rest of the roll back into the canister and place the cut strip in a light-tight container. If not, place both cut film strips in light-tight containers. You could use, for example, a bag for darkroom paper or a developing tank.
6. a) The tricky part is to get these strips developed. Many places that offer developing use fully automated systems and it is not unlikely their employees, expecting film rolls instead of loose strips, will mishandle the film. Therefore, make sure you explicitly communicate the state of the film strips, how they are packaged, and how they should be developed (mark the difference between the pushed strip and the unpushed strip.
   b) Develop yourself. In case you were thinking of starting to develop film yourself, now may be the time to do so. It would save you a lot of hassle were you to develop yourself, because you won't have to rely on a lab which could possibly mistreat the film strips given their unusual state.

n.b.

• Note that it is possible to do this if the pushed frames are consecutive but in the middle of the strip. You will end up with three separate film strips and more lost frames. Just make sure (if the pushed frames are more important) to cut through the unpushed frames, not the pushed frames.