It's difficult to evaluate lenses without using them for yourself. I've
I don't do any "real" macro work, but for close-up, I like 35mm on crop sensor. I've been playing around with a lot of 35/2.8 manual-focus lenses lately, and even though they're all spec'd the same, they can produce very different images. If you're open to manual focus, there are some very good, sharp, inexpensive 35/2.8 lenses that might do what you need when thrown on a focusing helicoid.
I would expect that working distance and non-macro use would be the main usability differences between the lenses you're considering. I don't do any "real" macro work If you get a chance to try out the lenses, butyou can bring a sample of one of your wood-working projects to try photographing.
As for closevignetting, it usually isn't noticeable unless you're photographing a plain-upwhite, I like 35mm on crop sensorde-focused wall wide-open. If you stop down a bit or shoot real-life subjects, vignetting often disappears. It's usually fairly easy to fix in post (with a focusing helicoidflat-field correction), and it's nice to have natural vignetting for some subjects, rather than artificially adding it in post.
Seems like you've pretty much decided on the 35mm. The only thing holding you back is it costs less? I say take the win.
Focal length, working distance, etc. - You state they don't matter.
Image quality - Compare sample images at The Digital Picture.
Image stabilization - Advantage 35mm
Ring light - Advantage 35mm
Non-macro use - Advantage 35mm (for full sets of bedroom furniture)
Focusing motor - Advantage 60mm (USM > STM)
Background blur / portraiture - Advantage 60mm