3
\$\begingroup\$

Hi there good people!

I have a calibrated workflow that starts from shooting and ends to.. web. I decided I'll start with testing my first prints with an Epson XP-442, however the results are adequately disappointing. Frustration took over and although frustration is a good start for problem solving, the amount and complexity of websites for print color management help is endless.

I've tried printing through PS, through LR, with perceptual or relative intent, with or without sharpening, tried letting PS manage the colors etc, I tried searching to find some icc for the printer (nowhere) I tried finding icc for a simple premium gloss paper, nothing. Also tried printing as AdobeRGB 16bit and converting to sRGB 8bit. Tried 7 prints of the same photo, results completely disappointing.

I'd appreciate some guiding! Below is the printed photo. The original in AdobeRGB (left) and the .. best out of all awful prints (right)..

enter image description here

Improve this question
\$\endgroup\$
8

2 Answers 2

Reset to default
1
\$\begingroup\$

Use a software RIP (Raster Image Processor) as your printer driver.

When you print from most software applications, you are at the mercy of the operating system, the software and the printer driver. A RIP takes direct control of rendering your photos so that they will look their absolute best when they are printed. You can make high quality prints on your own with a third-party utility.

Professional users can take full control of color management and select printer settings specific to the paper profile. In effect, you turn your "printer" into a "print-engine." You calibrate to the RIP and the RIP drives your printer. High-end RIPs are usually hardware due to the heavy graphics processing.
When you don't have a hardware RIP, a software one will do the same thing, a bit slower.

Get one compatible with your operating system for your Epson printer. A search brings up a few different ones ranging from U$60 up. There are some with a free trial (download) before you buy.

EDIT: Qimage by http://www.ddisoftware.com (for Win) / Qimage One by http://www.binaterm.com (for Mac) works with most all Epson printers.

Improve this answer
\$\endgroup\$
1
  • \$\begingroup\$ Best advice. QImage is a horrific software from the UI - looks like something written 20 years ago - but it is TOTALLY WORTH GETTING INTO IT. Best advice for anyone trying to get anything done in printing. \$\endgroup\$
    – TomTom
    May 3, 2018 at 6:59
0
\$\begingroup\$

After reading the comments, the only answer I can give you is.

If you do not have a calibrated printer, the only way to get some specific colors are tweaking your image.

Work on a duplicate. Saturate it, tint it, mask it, move the channels, and print tests, print more and print some more. You probably do not do this in a linear way.

Prepare some samples in the same file, for example, patches for the sky with different saturations, print them together and use the specific recipe for that zone.

... You will probably get a Frankenstein on screen, but that file is for print.

Improve this answer
\$\endgroup\$
1
  • \$\begingroup\$ That would be a good answer if the picture would be acceltable off. But even without calibration I would expect better than THAT. \$\endgroup\$
    – TomTom
    May 3, 2018 at 7:00

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.