The Perfect Sunrise

by NULLZ

submit your photo


Hall of Fame
View past winners from this year

Please participate in Meta
and help us grow.

897 reputation
316
bio website
location
age
visits member for 2 years, 5 months
seen Jul 6 at 15:28

Overly-enthusiastic amateur with an excessive budget and gear that is way too good for me.


Oct
22
comment A budget tripod for astrophotography ball-head or 3-way pan-head?
Yep, and generally you get what you pay for. A good "budget" tripod is usually not inexpensive :-)
Oct
22
comment Starting out professionally in families/kids/events photography in mostly natural setting vs studio
5D II is probably the sweet spot for your needs, but also consider older used 1Ds II...better built and better AF than the 5D II, though smaller viewfinder and not as good high ISO. fredmiranda.com, keh.com and adorama.com are all excellent places to look for good used gear.
Oct
19
comment Why does my Canon 7D get blurry pictures with a 70-200mm f/2.8 IS (series 1)?
Following on to the above comments: please, if possible, provide some examples, ideally including relevant EXIF information (ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc.). There are lots of possible reasons for blurriness but seeing images will narrow the actual reasons down very quickly.
Oct
16
comment Printing large (16x20 and up) with the Olympus OM-D EM-5?
Somewhat related: photo.stackexchange.com/questions/26001/…
Oct
11
comment What's the best way to shoot aerial dancers in low light conditions?
Some related questions that may help: photo.stackexchange.com/questions/20868/… and photo.stackexchange.com/questions/22266/…
Sep
5
comment Canon 50mm f/1.8 vs Canon 28mm f/1.8 (vs Sigma 30mm f/1.4)
I've owned both the 50 f/1.8 and 28 f/1.8 and I mostly concur with the statements above regarding those, particularly the chromatic aberration on the 28: it is bad, and not just in the corners. Furthermore, it's not easily correctable in post-processing. As such, I would not recommend it as a portrait lens (nor any wide-angle lens, except for group shots...B/W, maybe?). I was tempted to pick up the Sigma 30, but held out for a Canon 24 f/1.4 L II :-) No regrets, just a lighter wallet and much, much better images with less effort in post.
Jul
8
comment I almost cannot switch to manual focus on my Canon 17-40 f/4 L lens
For out-of-warranty work, usually they will give you an estimate first, and you can decide whether to get the work done or not if it's too expensive. I've done this with several lenses and cameras. Usually the fees are surprisingly reasonable.
Jun
18
comment What printer can output photo-album pages on thick paper?
^^ it's not just the platen gap that is important. For very thick/stiff papers (such as photo-album pages), a straight feed path is essential.
Jun
12
comment How to fix inoperative autofocus in Canon 70-200 F4 L USM?
Doing a little checking: a used 70-200 F4 L in decent condition can be had for around $600. While it's certainly possible that a repair would be $300, it probably won't be that much. Not sure about your options, but my local shop has some kind of deal with Canon where they ship it to Canon, get an estimate, and I can then decide whether I want to go ahead with it. If I decide not to, all I pay is the shipping (usually around $35). If I do, it's just the cost of the repair. Might be worth looking into.
Jun
12
comment How to fix inoperative autofocus in Canon 70-200 F4 L USM?
Also try switching the AF/MF switch back and forth a few times, and make sure it's firmly on 'AF'
Jun
11
comment Maintaining and repairing Yongnuo vs Canon speedlites
Indeed, he should make that an answer, though it might be sensible to add the caution that if you don't know how to repair/replace the HV capacitor, you can be very seriously injured by the voltage. IMHO if you don't know what you're doing, this is a bad place to try to save money :-/
Jun
4
comment Is compositing a viable technique for high key portrait type shots?
You might want to define what "viable" means to you. I think what you describe is certainly possible, given enough time and sufficient editing skills to prevent unnatural looks. But there is a reason people use real backdrops and real lights: it's a lot faster and easier to get the look right at exposure time than it is to spend hours/days tinkering with edits (while getting them to look "natural"). Where "time is money", the investment in equipment makes a lot of sense.
Jun
4
comment Why does this shot appear to have the miniature “tilt-shift” effect?
I think the key here is not getting too hung up on the "tilt-shift" part of the question. The "miniature" part is what's going on and you nailed it: thin DOF (or something that looks like thin DOF) is the key. That can be achieved with tilt-shift, but it's not the only way. In this particular case, the appearance of shallow DOF is created by movement of the trees during the long exposure.
Jun
1
comment Can Canon Rebel XS effectively optically trigger a speedlite flash?
I also thought that, but after spending a little time understanding manual, it's not too difficult, plus it will make you a better photographer even for cases where you don't use flash.
May
31
comment Are these images symptomatic of shutter failure?
Just a little update for anyone who may care: got my camera back ($400), and not only was the shutter replaced but also the DC/DC circuit board which was shorting, and the mirror charge. It's now in better shape (inside, anyway) than when I originally bought it :-)
May
16
comment Are these images symptomatic of shutter failure?
Have to check the timing on that; I think we arrived at the same conclusion at the same time. At any rate, I think I'll just leave things as they are.
May
15
comment Are these images symptomatic of shutter failure?
This particular sequence was in portrait orientation, but I have some in landscape orientation that demonstrate the same symptoms. The range of shutter speeds is between 1/800 - 1/2000. Possibly worth noting that the symptoms show with both single shots as well as with burst sequences. Lens was 70-200 2.8 non-IS with aperture f/5.6 (Aperture priority mode).
May
8
comment Is replacing a 70-200mm Canon lens with a 135mm and extender a good idea?
Interesting...the chart certainly gives the 70-200 2.8 the edge at 2.8 (particularly mid-frame and corner), even allowing for a little slop comparing 189mm to 200mm as the tool does. My experience with this differs (135 w/ 1.4x is better overall than the 70-200), though admittedly I have not done the rather rigorous testing such as with the ISO-12233 charts. I'm inspired to try some now, though :-)
May
8
comment Is replacing a 70-200mm Canon lens with a 135mm and extender a good idea?
Keep in mind that I'm referring to the 70-200 2.8 non-IS specifically...which, generally speaking, I think has the lowest IQ out of all of the 70-200s (including the f/4s). So YMMV if you have a different model. But still, prime IQ is nearly always going to be better than a zoom at the same focal length, especially if the 135 is in the mix. It's my favorite lens by far.
Apr
29
comment Is a fluorescent filter worth using, and how and when?
I completely agree that the best "filter" is the switch on the wall...it's even more difficult nowadays because "fluorescent" lights can have numerous color casts...and they're often mixed together (e.g. "Daylight" tubes mixed with old-school ones, along with "warm" ones)...making it very, very difficult to balance with any kind of filter (lens or strobe).