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network profile
| bio | website | |
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| location | ||
| age | ||
| visits | member for | 1 year, 3 months |
| seen | May 15 at 2:42 | |
| stats | profile views | 28 |
Overly-enthusiastic amateur with an excessive budget and gear that is way too good for me.
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May 8 |
answered | Is replacing a 70-200mm Canon lens with a 135mm and extender a good idea? |
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May 3 |
answered | Any good ways to keep a DSLR with a heavy lens parallel to your body while carrying? |
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May 1 |
answered | Will a third-party tripod mount collar hold my lens securely? |
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Apr 29 |
comment |
Is a fluorescent filter worth using, and how and when? I completely agree that the best "filter" is the switch on the wall...it's even more difficult nowadays because "fluorescent" lights can have numerous color casts...and they're often mixed together (e.g. "Daylight" tubes mixed with old-school ones, along with "warm" ones)...making it very, very difficult to balance with any kind of filter (lens or strobe). |
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Apr 28 |
answered | Is a fluorescent filter worth using, and how and when? |
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Apr 25 |
revised |
How do I reverse engineer a portrait photo? improved/fixed links |
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Apr 25 |
answered | How do I reverse engineer a portrait photo? |
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Apr 22 |
comment |
Walkabout: Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS vs EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L I & II I have heard this "17-55 is L quality" bit before. I think it's utter BS. I have rented the 17-55 and currently own about 1/2 dozen L lenses of various vintages. Even the old, beat-up, second-hand Ls that I own are leagues better than the 17-55 in color rendition, build quality, and sharpness. It is not L quality in any of those categories. I'd agree that it's one of the best, if not the best EF-S lenses (though the 60 f/2.8 would give it a run for its money), but it's not an 'L', hidden or otherwise. |
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Apr 20 |
comment |
Use a shot list or not? Particularly the case for unfamiliar locations or event types. I imagine if you do wedding photography full-time, you have it down pat and probably don't need to write out a detailed plan. But for something you've never done before/aren't familiar with, or in a unique location, it's probably better to have a plan (and potentially abandon it) than not, for the reasons you state. Great answer. |
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Apr 16 |
comment |
Forgive my ignorance: Aperture changes as I zoom in why? @Jakub: sorry to nit-pick, but that's not quite right. There's at least one Canon zoom that is constant aperture throughout the zoom range, but is not an L: the 17-55 F/2.8. It is true that most of the "L" zooms are constant aperture, but not all of them are (for example, the 28-300 f/3.5-5.6 L and the 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 L). |
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Apr 16 |
answered | Is it worth buying a battery grip for my Canon 600D even if I don't care about the battery capacity? |
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Apr 13 |
comment |
Pictures of dancers on stage Yep. Even with 135/f2 (my best "dance" lens), I'm almost always at 1600 unless it's an exceptionally well-lit venue...but those seem rare :-) |
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Apr 12 |
comment |
Pictures of dancers on stage The pro models are "good" (usable), and maybe "awesome" relative to lower-end models, and certainly much improved from even a few years ago, but I still would not use that adjective to describe the high ISO (>3200) of any camera. That wasn't really my point though...the point is, you have to use it. If you're trying to shoot dance/stage at 400 or even 800, unless you have a TON of light, it's not going to be enough. |
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Apr 12 |
answered | Pictures of dancers on stage |
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Mar 29 |
comment |
Are there a kind of monopods available which have a minimum height of 10 cm? OK...I still don't think you're going to find a single monopod that can act as a full-size monopod and collapse down to 10cm. That would require so many segments as to make it extremely wobbly when fully extended. BUT: you could probably fashion your own 10cm 'pod out of some lightweight material (PVC pipe or similar hollow tubing with a cap + 1/4" 20 TPI screw for the mount) that would not be too burdensome to carry outdoors. You could probably even attach it to your main monopod with a velcro strap or rubber band. |
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Mar 28 |
comment |
Are there a kind of monopods available which have a minimum height of 10 cm? what is the actual problem (or problems) you're trying to solve? I doubt you're going to find a product exactly as you describe, but perhaps there is some other substitute that can do what you require. |
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Mar 16 |
comment |
What to look for when testing a wide angle lens before buying? Then you should consider buying the lens from someone else who will give you more time to test it and allow you to return it if you're not satisfied, or buy it new with a warranty/return policy. In any case, the point remains: there's nothing special for testing a wide angle that you would/wouldn't do for any lens, and there are lots of answers on testing a lens already. |
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Mar 15 |
comment |
What to look for when testing a wide angle lens before buying? In that case, this question/answer should also help (and also applies to any focal length): photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12215/… |
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Mar 15 |
comment |
Do the Lightroom lens correction tools make good lenses less important? I think this is hard to answer in a general sense. For most people it comes down to "how much is your time worth?", e.g. if you can afford a lot of time but not a lot of money, by all means spend less money on a lens and more time editing in Lightroom/Photoshop/etc. For many people, time is extremely valuable and even though it might be possible to fix lens (and other image) issues, it takes time that they'd rather spend shooting or doing other more important edits. |
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Mar 15 |
comment |
Why are these light trails large blobs of light instead of nice thin lines? It looks to me like the smudging is a result of flare, caused by the oncoming headlights shining directly into the lens, which in turn causes internal reflections and produce a ghost image on the sensor. |
