Incense

by Bart Arondson

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6,876 reputation
1642
bio website chuqui.com
location California
age 56
visits member for 4 years, 4 months
seen 5 hours ago

Jun
28
comment How can I import multiple cards into Lightroom simultaneously?
Platt's reasoning is about efficiency (as opposed to speed; not necessarily the same thing). In my tests, it's definitely faster to copy images to disk and THEN import. More importantly, if I'm importing multiple cards, copy all cards to disk, then do a singloe import means I can leave the computer alone for most of the import and not have to come back to swap cards. I don't use a multi-card reader at this time, it's overkill for me, so I can't say how that'd affect my workflow. (for 1 card imports, I just leave it to Lightroom adn not worry about it)
Jun
27
comment Should I buy an L Lens for my crop camera before buying a full-frame body?
by the way, a good way to help decide this issue: rent sample lenses and bodies and go do test shoots. chances are, a quick shoot with top caliber lenses will make the decision obvious.
Jun
27
comment Should I buy an L Lens for my crop camera before buying a full-frame body?
Another vote for upgrading lenses. I did that a few months ago, and it was well worth it. If your body is relatively recent (< 3-4 years old) it'll do you well. I tell people to plan to ugprade bodies every few years, but good lenses will last decades. rfusca is right about the 7D, that body rocks; I love mine.
Jun
27
comment How can I import multiple cards into Lightroom simultaneously?
yes, it does. Some manual interaction's going to be necessary; xenocross mentioned Platt's workshop, which is a good resource on this; the amount of time "babysitting" the import is less if you copy the cards to the disk first, because once you start the import, you can leave it alone. Fewer overall needs to "do something" along the way, and the time spent importing will be the longest part, so it'll go hands off early in the overall process.
May
7
comment What techniques should be used when attempting bird photography?
I edited to remove the 404 link. That piece needed a rewrite, and I took it down for now while editing up the blog over the weekend. I think the answer here stands without it fine.
Apr
23
comment What is the best way to digitize old photographs for preservation?
thanks for finding that!
Apr
23
comment What is the best way to digitize old photographs for preservation?
now that's weird. a whole hunk of that comment disappeared after I saved it. I'll have to edit it again.
Apr
15
comment Sigma 150-500 f/5-6.3 vs Sigma 50-500 f/4-6.3 for birds in flight?
You do lose some sharpness using a teleconverter, but the 300+1.4x combo is sharper than the 100-400 at 400mm, which isn't uncommon with a prime len. The effective result of that combo is about 430mm at F5.6, which is a nice lens, plus you have the 300 if you take it off. the 100-400 is a more flexible combo with a wider range. Like any zoom it softens at the extended range, but it's still quite a good lens. I only retired/sold mine after buying a 70-200 F2.8 that overlaps range with it significantly.
Feb
15
comment Where can I find advice on using an advanced AF system for wildlife and bird photography?
also, a great article on focus modes and customization on the 7d is here: jefflynchdev.wordpress.com/2011/01/12/…
Feb
15
comment Where can I find advice on using an advanced AF system for wildlife and bird photography?
another suggestion: get focus off of the shutter and onto another button (aka "back button focus"), so you can control focus separately from taking the picture. With a bit of practice it becomes second nature to push both buttons when you want tracking of a subject during the shot, but to get the focus locked in and then be able to turn off tracking makes a huge difference at times. see this piece on DPS for info on this, once you get some time working with back button focus, you'll never go back. bit.ly/wpodgl
Feb
12
comment Can you recommend a long cross body strap?
An update on this topic: Black Rapid was given a patent for the sling technology and has evidently let it be known they'll be defending it. Because of that, both the manufacturer of the Luma Loop and the CameraSlingers double camera system have cancelled their products. Luma has a new product that's just hitting the market called the Cinch. I just got a review copy while I'll blog about when I use it. Because of the patent issue, I no longer recommend the blackrapid products and I'm looking to retire mine as soon as I find an alternative.
Feb
7
comment Is there a 3rd-party Canon intervalometer which will drive both a 7D and a Rebel T3i?
So based on research and talking to various photographers, right now, it looks like the Promote is the "best practices" (and rather expensive) unit. I'm currently planning on buying the Phottix (listed above) which seems to have the functionality I want but at a lower price, knowing I might decide to upgrade at some point. It seems to be "good enough" for my needs for now, and should drive either body despite the incompatible plugs (oh, canon, standardize. seriously).
Feb
6
comment What's the best number of shots to combine to produce an HDR photo?
thanks, @Andrew Heath. Yeah, I dropped my flickr account. Those images aren't currently online, but I flagged this into my Todo file to figure out.
Feb
5
comment Is there a 3rd-party Canon intervalometer which will drive both a 7D and a Rebel T3i?
more research shows the Phottix to be another (and much less expensive) option: outdoorphotogear.com/store/…
Feb
5
comment Is there a 3rd-party Canon intervalometer which will drive both a 7D and a Rebel T3i?
that's definitely an option for some, but I don't want to modify the firmware on my cameras at this time.
Jan
24
comment What system should I use for photo management and sharing over a LAN?
sorry about that. grabbed the wrong link. edited to correct.
Dec
31
comment What size lens is recommended for flying bird photography?
for what it's worth, I've changed around my camera bag, and I'm reitring the 100-400 in favor of the 70-200 F2.8 with an added 2x teleconverter. I've been using the 300F4+1.4x combo a lot more over time, and the more I do, the more I like it, but I'm going to do some head to head competitions between the 70-200/2X and 300/1.4x to see how the sharpness and focus speed compare. (some notes on why I'm doing this here: bit.ly/taujvl and some early sharpness looks here: bit.ly/rP1vJX). I still love the 100-400, but it was time to do some upgrading.
Dec
31
comment Is the IS of the Canon EF 100-400 4.5-5.6 L IS USM Telephoto Zoom worth the extra £200 over the Canon EF 400 f/5.6 L USM Lens?
for what it's worth, I've changed around my camera bag, and I'm reitring the 100-400 in favor of the 70-200 F2.8 with an added 2x teleconverter. I've been using the 300F4+1.4x combo a lot more over time, and the more I do, the more I like it, but I'm going to do some head to head competitions between the 70-200/2X and 300/1.4x to see how the sharpness and focus speed compare. (some notes on why I'm doing this here: bit.ly/taujvl and some early sharpness looks here: bit.ly/rP1vJX). I still love the 100-400, but it was time to do some upgrading.
Jun
20
comment How can I get sharp manual focus despite poor eyesight?
thinking about it, I thought I'd call this out in a comment: manual focus is a technique, and like any technique, it requires practice. and practice. and practice. With the advent of autofocus, you actually have a good teacher; the AF system. get in controlled situations and AF on subjects, and study the viewfinder to see how it looks. then practice replicating that with manual focus. it's not something that you'll turn off the AF and magically do well the first time. like most of photography, you have to work to get good at it.
Jun
20
comment How can I get sharp manual focus despite poor eyesight?
I'm +6.50 with astigmatism. I spent about a year wearing contacts, which couldn't correct the astigmatism. I finally went back to wearing glasses full time. Contacts have their own needs and complications, there's a lot to like about them, but ultimately, the hassle was more than they added to life. also realize that not everyone wears their glasses while shootimg. I do, but others take them off while looking through the camera. You can't correct the astigmatism if you take them off...