Road Train !!!!!!!!!!

by Russell McMahon

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14,320 reputation
1846
bio website j.mp/NZPHOTOS
location Auckland, New Zealand
age
visits member for 3 years
seen 1 hour ago

Electronic designer. Professional Engineer. Oldish aka "reasonably experienced" :-).
Contact - apptechnz gmail com <- you know the drill.
Tel: +64 9 837 2999 gmt+13

Special interest in technological solutions for developing country applications. Extensive in-China experience in product development & manufacturing in China.

Jack of all trades, Master of Electrical engineering. (aka ME (elec)) Interested in all aspects of modern technology. Professional qualifications in electrical engineering but practically proficient or conversant in many peripheral areas.

Recent extensive experience in solar powered LED lighting development and manufacturing in China for markets worldwide.

"Servant of the Most High God" / committed Christian. Happy to work enthusiastically and interact amicably with people of all nationalities and creeds.

Married with 2 adult children.

Obsessional photographer.


Jun
22
answered What specifics does a street style/detailed photography camera + lens need to have?
Jun
22
comment What specifics does a street style/detailed photography camera + lens need to have?
I'd buy a Nikon D700 - probably used to meet that budget. "Only" [tm] 12 megapixels. Have a look at these D700 samples and see if that 12 mp is going to bother you. Look at the results in the lowest of lighting conditions. Add whatever lens most suits out of the rest of your budget and work up as you can afford. A 50mm f/1.8 is a fine starting street lens. (Note that 24 mp fives you 40% more pixels per inch. 36mp (top of the 35mm crop so far) gives you 70% more pixels per inch BUT will be downsized to much lower for quality n almost every case.
Jun
22
comment Why is the Fluorescent filter for a flash green?
@rfusca - Have a look who downvoted it and look at what he has also been saying to me recently on this site. Now look at his downvoting history on SE electrical site (if your exalted powers extend that far). Draw what conclusion you may. FWIW the information is, of course, useful to anyone who wants to either know and/or allow for the effects of various light sources on their photos. It seems vanishingly unlikely that the downvoter genuinely thinks that such information is not useful. For myself it matters not. If voting is skewed by 'other matters' it hurts information seekers.
Jun
22
comment Why is the Fluorescent filter for a flash green?
@OlinLathrop - no detailed elucidation in public :-). There is a degree of Gurney Halleck action in there but the conclusion is going to be about as good as his are. Needs a person who is active in two SE areas and dissentious in both and actively so at present. Do your own Mentating :-).
Jun
21
comment Why is the Fluorescent filter for a flash green?
Excellent! Now I see who it is who has been revenge downvoting my electrical engineering posts :-).
Jun
21
revised Why is the Fluorescent filter for a flash green?
added 500 characters in body
Jun
21
comment Why aren't there any cooled CCD sensors to reduce noise?
FN ... When eg a Stirling cold-finger is attached to a sensor cool down time to Liquid Nitrogen order of temperatures can be a few seconds. Some guided artillery shells have Joule Thomson expansion nozzle cyrocoolers used to cool the IR sensors which guide the shells to their targets(!). The cooling cycle is triggered by the firing impact, the sensor is cooled to LN temperatures as the shell rises and by the time it tops its ballistic arc the IR seeker is ready for work. That they go to this effort for real time motion related use suggests substantial gains for short exposure IR use.
Jun
21
comment Why aren't there any cooled CCD sensors to reduce noise?
FN - My continued, and still, disagreement with what you say relates to power levels, not to other photographic related aspects. Just because people do things really badly at present it doesn't mean it must be so. Peltier coolers are marvellous tools, but horrendously inefficient, as you note. You are unlikely to see anyone producing Stirling cycle coolers for 35mm domestic market sensors, but they would vastly exceed Peltier efficincies and are actually "quite easy" and could be quite low cost if eg Sony decided to use them. Cool down times ...
Jun
21
answered Why is the Fluorescent filter for a flash green?
Jun
21
comment Why is the Fluorescent filter for a flash green?
Nice job of colour correcting the firelight scene :-) !
Jun
21
comment Why aren't there any cooled CCD sensors to reduce noise?
@FakeName - Energy reasons were well down my list of erroneous responses. The 1st link had a 'noise fee' half hour exposure. That's not a minor improvement and many shots would benefit in selected cases. Then ...
Jun
21
comment Why aren't there any cooled CCD sensors to reduce noise?
The astrophotographers do it now. It does not need to be as large as they do it. I want to try it sometime. Most people who answered have missed your point. Very small Peltier on rear of sensor wold do. Ideally you'd have it in a dry air chamber to avoid fogging.
Jun
20
comment Zoom Lens and Prime Lens Photo Comparison
Primes of similar cost are usually superior to zooms because they can be optimised for the specific geometry involved. Lens elements do not need to be moved relative to each other and compromises are not needed for non ideal changes as zoom is varied.
Jun
20
awarded  Enlightened
Jun
20
awarded  Nice Answer
Jun
19
revised What kind of effect can I hope to achieve by hand-holding a filter at an angle?
added 783 characters in body
Jun
19
answered What kind of effect can I hope to achieve by hand-holding a filter at an angle?
Jun
19
comment How do I take better pictures with smaller apertures and wider angles?
* Personal opinion only - may be worth zilch: Rule of thirds is a good starting point or fall back position but if you can get a result that looks or feels good for some other reason, so much the better.
Jun
19
comment How do I take better pictures with smaller apertures and wider angles?
... you want landscape as part of the scene. In the second change I rotated it not to get rotation effect per se but to allow targets to occupy more of frame. Dab of sky and grass added along diagonal. My eye-brain says that larger is better here - getting it near the diagonal and near the dread and avoid if one can do so well* "rule of thirds" is a bonus. Maybe. You are very very welcome to differ in opinion. Images here: i.stack.imgur.com/IcruT.jpg ||
Jun
19
comment How do I take better pictures with smaller apertures and wider angles?
This comment is tangential to the question proper as I'm commenting on the first photo. Photo referenced below is original/change1/change2. Very very very roughly done just to provide illustration. This is very much a personal preference thing - if you like the thoughts that's good. If not, that's good too. Photo has a nice happy feel and subject obviously does it no harm. Absolutely no claim to merit per se. || Such shots are often spontaneous, but if you were able I'd have been tempted to try and add some more grass below and shrink target area generally - but that depends on how much ...