India Point Park

India Point Park
by matt-ball                

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Dec
4
comment How can I take a candlelit photo with a pure black background?
Also, by replacing the black background which has RGB values of 2,2,4 with pure white with a colour difference tolerance of 1 (so only essentially identically coloured pixels atre replaced, you get the same pattern as in the gamma-upped version showing where the background has been "pasted" with black. See HERE
Dec
4
comment How can I take a candlelit photo with a pure black background?
FWIW it seems likely that the background was made dark by editing - this is not certain but the massivelyt gamma-upped version seen here suggests so.
Dec
4
comment Which is better for street photography on a crop: 28mm or 35mm?
@unsignedzero In case you did not see it - as Inksta points out - you can link to an answer by copying the link given by the "share" link under the answer. Doh!
Dec
3
comment What is a good focal length for street photography?
I hadn't heard of Tichy. Interesting indeed - but I wonder if your classification is 'fair' or accurate enough.That he was a pervert would be jdged to be true by many (and questioned by some) but he seemed to make an art form out of making and using really bad-looking gear - when he could have used "normal" cameras either as-is or disguised. Many such are available at little or no cost.
Dec
3
comment What is a good focal length for street photography?
@unsignedzero I started with a Box Brownie .. Yashica ... Pen Ft ... Minolta fully MF SRT303B (with marvellous split image manual focusing). And more. So MF is well burnt into my brain. My NEX-5 with A-mount Sony contrast-focusing-only adaptor focuses slower than you'd think possible - MF with peaking is vastly superior almost always. And longer AF zooms at large aperture on eg A77 APSC benefit from MF touchup after AF. Given all that - I've still personally found an 18-250 AF on APSC by far the most flexible arrangement for street photography. And, yes, I'm aware that preferences vary :-).
Dec
2
comment 200mm Macro lens, get a new or old MF-only lens?
.... Thankyou! -> Responding to Michael's comments made me realise that use of an eg NEX camera to A-mount adaptor on the reversed lens in reversed lens macro photography would allow manual aperture control in such cases - provided the adaptor does not cause problems with vignetting or minimum proximity to subject. Presumably this is well known, but not to me till now.
Dec
2
comment 200mm Macro lens, get a new or old MF-only lens?
... utilised to access inaccessible capability. eg on Minolta A-mount lenses a portion of a match stick may be used to trap the mechanical aperture arm in a desired position. This can be done without causing damage if "due care" is taken. That is a useful "fix" for eg reverse-lens macro photography where the inverted lens has no aperture control ring and defaults to minimum aperture when mounted. | Lightbulb moment:
Dec
2
comment 200mm Macro lens, get a new or old MF-only lens?
.... this is usually a gross distortion that is severe enough to require remedying. I don't recall an aperture arm bent enough to affect exposure but to still be sensibly usable (but that may say more about me than about the lenses :-).) | Nikon's G series lenses (amongst others) do not allow 'on lens' manual aperture control which is sometimes of importance. (Ken Rockwell says that the G stands for "gelded". ) All things being equal I'd rather have lenses with maximum possible flexibility, but, of course, use what is provided in most cases. Very occasionally Heath Robinson solutions are ...
Dec
2
comment 200mm Macro lens, get a new or old MF-only lens?
@Michael Yes - there's usually some sort of silver-lining to go with every downside - although the ratio of silver to down varies widely :-). | As I know you know - in Aperture and Manual modes the precise value of the actual aperture is not usually crucial as the camera will compensate for it. In other modes (eg shutter-speed priority) where aperture is assumed to be as set (depending on the system) then variations in aperture wrt to assumed may have some impact. | In (too?) many decades of using lenses with manual aperture control arms I've occaionally seen them bent or damaged, but ....
Dec
1
comment 200mm Macro lens, get a new or old MF-only lens?
... Kipon (and possibly others) have taken an interesting approach by adding a camera controllable aperture IN the adaptor as seen here
Dec
1
comment 200mm Macro lens, get a new or old MF-only lens?
@MichaelClark Yes - Canon "make things hard" in that case. I alluded to such arrangements above with various 'most' and 'almost any' qualifiers - I'm sure there are other examples. | For EOS lenses you can but "active" adapters but these tend to be priced in the $300 range depending on capabilities and manufacturer..... A good discussion with examples is given here. ....
Dec
1
comment What is a good focal length for street photography?
... dependant. Cartier-Bresson could manage to have "everything wrong" while composing classic images eg The bicycle
Dec
1
comment What is a good focal length for street photography?
... slow (maybe f/3.5-6.3 range) but excellent focusing 17-250mm vastly superior to eg a prime 50mm f/1.8. Even with the 2 stops disadvantage, even at 17mm, I have found that arrangement vastly superior for cabndid rapid action low light shots. Where a few seconds or longer is available to compose a photo (eg all the ones in my above 3 examples) whatever lens best suits will work OK. | With time I have tended to err towards higher ISO in marginal situations as more noise and lower absolute quality tend to be preferable to increased blue and very poor focus. That obviously is situation ...
Dec
1
comment What is a good focal length for street photography?
@unsignedzero Manual focus can be very useful but usefulness depends greatly on circumstance and style of photography. MF requires either eye to viewfinder (or viewing LCD) OR setting camera to have a suitably wide focus range so that focusing is not critical - which does not allow larger apertures at closer ranges OR very precise selection and judgement of focus point. Compared to any of these, my experience is that the use of a good AF with central spot focus allows eyes-free use with rapid response in low light circumstances. In eg a night-market situation I have found a realtively ....
Nov
30
comment Which is better for street photography on a crop: 28mm or 35mm?
@unsignedzero There may be an easier way to get link to an answer but (1) Copy question title, paste into search box at top right of page and press Enter. Find answer to question from person desired and open it. URL is what is desired or (2) Copy question subject line. Open profile page for user so search box shows user ID number. Paste question subject line after user number and press Enter. || The latter method is easy if YOU are the person whose answer you wish to link to as you can get to the ID page by clicking your icon at the top of the page.
Nov
30
comment What is a good focal length for street photography?
* log_10(2.8/1.8) / log_10(2) = 1.2748 ...
Nov
30
comment What is a good focal length for street photography?
@unsignedzero If you want to spend the money (make that 'can afford to spend' - we all WANT :-) ) then you can get (as I know you know) f/2.8 constant aperture zooms in various ranges. A f/2.8 is 1.28 stops worse than a f/1.8* which matters but not fatally so in many cases (breathe more steadily, brace better, post process one more stop,... :-) ). The loss of a stop or so is often made up for by the vast flexibility gain. That said, my 'best' night vision system is a Nikon D700 with a f/1.8 50mm. It can see in the dark far better than I can and the ability to use high ISOs helps vastly.
Nov
30
answered What type of lens equipment would work well for portraits of makeup clients? Is a standard 18-55mm enough?
Nov
30
revised How can I make a telescope attachment for my DSLR to capture space images?
edited body
Nov
30
comment Which is better for street photography on a crop: 28mm or 35mm?
Opinion related BUT even 28mm is not wide enough in many cases IMHO. 35mm is getting very tight in closeup situations. My answer here shows photos taken at 18mm and with crop areas for a 28mm lens shown. As will be seen - the 18mm lens allow far "better" results in many cases. You can always use "foot zoom" but I'd strongly recommend a good quality zoom over a prime due to the vast range of situations liable to be experienced.