Lunch atop a (Springfield) skyscraper

Lunch atop a (Springfield) skyscraper
by andy-m                

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Jan
7
answered What do you wish you knew about Lightroom keywords when you started?
Dec
15
awarded  Nice Answer
Dec
14
revised How can I overlap a landscape image into the shape of a person's face?
better images
Dec
14
revised How can I overlap a landscape image into the shape of a person's face?
removed apology for bad mask (it turned out fine); added terminology paragraph
Dec
13
revised How can I overlap a landscape image into the shape of a person's face?
added final composite and its layers panel
Dec
13
revised How can I overlap a landscape image into the shape of a person's face?
added images, and fixed some workflow problems
Dec
13
answered How can I overlap a landscape image into the shape of a person's face?
Dec
13
revised How can I overlap a landscape image into the shape of a person's face?
changed title to be less generic; reworked grammar; removed pointless bits; added a tag
Oct
27
awarded  Enlightened
Oct
16
answered How do I read these two Lightroom histograms?
Oct
10
comment How can I add a border to a JPEG photo without affecting quality?
"it loses only about 0.5% information" [citation needed] :)
Oct
3
comment Is buying a lens with image stabilization (IS) worth the money?
Oh, and if the alternative to the Canon lens was one of the third-party 70-200/2.8s, I'd say go for the Canon, if you can. There really is a performance difference, particularly in things like AF speed, durability, etc. I had the Tokina 70-200/2/.8 for a time, and have a similar-class Sigma prime still, and they really are not in the same class as the Canon lens, in terms of lens body features. Optically, maybe close, but that only helps after focus is achieved, which is simply faster and easier with the Canon.
Oct
3
comment Is buying a lens with image stabilization (IS) worth the money?
It's not really the question you asked, but the Canon 70-200/2.8 without the IS is an older-generation lens. While that series has always been an excellent performer, I'm told that the II version is much-improved, so there's a second reason to wait to buy the IS version. If it were me looking to save money, I'd instead be looking at the 70-200/4, on the grounds that I don't need f/2.8, and would like to save the weight. Certainly at the wide end in the 17-40 you're looking at, f/2.8 is questionable, but it's not so easy with a lens so perfectly suited to portraiture and such. Good luck!
Sep
29
comment Do grey cards work with film cameras?
My point is that the people who coined the term "incident light meter" more than likely were people familiar with optical physics, rather than people who spoke French. The English physics jargon may well have gotten the term from French, but that doesn't mean every physicist is a French-speaker.
Sep
29
revised Do grey cards work with film cameras?
added "in-camera" qualifier to previous
Sep
29
comment Do grey cards work with film cameras?
@IliahBorg: Added digression 1 to address that possibility
Sep
29
revised Do grey cards work with film cameras?
added first digression
Sep
28
revised Do grey cards work with film cameras?
clarified exposure meter comments
Sep
28
revised Do grey cards work with film cameras?
added Kodak film data book pics
Sep
28
comment Do grey cards work with film cameras?
"Incident" here probably doesn't come directly from French, but from optical physics.