Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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55,913 reputation
8112259
bio website jonrista.com
location Aurora, CO
age 35
visits member for 4 years, 9 months
seen 2 days ago

I am a relatively new photographer, having been at if for only a few years. I chose Canon gear when I finally took the plunge into DSLR. I am an avid hobbyist now, and love everything about photography, from the gear, to the science, to the art. I spent years reading about the technology and photography theory, so I am very well versed in the technical aspects of photography. My artistic skills are moderate, but improving. You can see my work @ the following sites:

My interests lie primarily in nature photography:

  • Birds
    • Songbird Setups
    • Shore Birds & Waders
    • Raptors
    • All others
  • Astrophotography
    • Moon
    • Wide Field
    • Deep Sky
  • Landscapes
  • Wildlife
  • Floral Macro
  • Insect Macro
  • Abstract

I currently use the following gear:

  • Cameras
    • Canon EOS 7D
    • Canon EOS 450D (Rebel XSi)
  • Lenses
    • EF 16-35 f/2.8 USM L Wide
    • EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
    • EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro
    • EF 100-400mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM L Zoom
    • EF 600mm f/4 L IS II
    • Canon EF 1.4x TC III
    • Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DGX
    • Periodic Rentals:
      • EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS II
      • EF 500mm f/4 L IS II
      • Canon EF 2x TC III
  • Filters
    • Lee Foundation Kit (x2) + Tandem Adapter
    • Lee .3/.6 ND
    • Lee .3/.6/.9 Soft Grad ND
    • Lee .3/.6/.9 Hard Grad ND
    • Lee CPL
  • Tripod
    • Gitzo Systematic GT3532LS 3S. Series 3 Tripod
    • Jobu Pro 2 Gimbal
    • Gitzo Mountaineer GT0541 4S. Series.0 Tripod
    • Gitzo GH1780QR Series.1 Mag. Center Ball Head

Apr
3
comment How to do 1 or more photos per second without jitter using a Canon 7D?
I think davidsmith hit on a critical point. Is your focus manual, or set to AF? If set to AF, and AF is linked to the shutter, and you have the AF system set to lock focus before releasing the shutter, then you are very likely experiencing focus hunting which is resulting in the inconsistent timing. I would make sure your set to manual focus, manually focus on the area you want to expose, set a tighter aperture for deeper DOF, and see if that fixes the issue.
Apr
3
comment How to do 1 or more photos per second without jitter using a Canon 7D?
I am not sure how buffer congestion would be the problem at 1fps and with JPEG images. I think something else is going on...probably focus hunting or something like that.
Mar
25
comment How to achieve this smudge effect in photoshop?
I think user38275 nailed it. Looks like water with something that slightly clouded it to me. The strands of hair in the front definitely look like they are floating on a smooth water surface. There also seems to be a fairly well delinated point at which her face goes from being in clear air to being in the water. I don't know that you could get this precise a look with artificial fog...I'm not going to say it's impossible, but I think it would be significantly more difficult to do.
Mar
22
comment Does the size of blower matter to clean the sensor of the camera?
I would like to keep this answer here. Ironically, even though the recommendation is not a good one, and the reasons why have been well documented, I think it is valuable to keep it around for the reaction and the comments. It is important people who come here from web searches and such know that using canned air with propellants comes with risks.
Mar
16
comment Why doesn't a drastic change in aperture seem to have an effect on this city skyline photo?
There is a difference. At f/4 your suffering from CA, the softness around bright edges. At f/25, you have eliminated the CA. That is one of THE reasons to stop down, to reduce optical aberrations and achieve diffraction limited performance. To get optimal results, since depth of field changes do not have a recognizable impact on the image, you should use the maximum F# that does not reduce resolution...which is likely around f/8 rather than f/25.
Mar
16
comment What is the state of the art in black and white printing, particularly for large prints?
Those inks are usually Canon or Epson. I use Hahnenuhle paper myself, along with Moab. I like both brands, excellent papers either way. I have found that some of the Moab papers are better. One in particular produces some AMAZING deep shadow tonality, it's Lasal Photo Matte. This is an OBA paper, so it doesn't have the longevity of some acid free neutral white natural fiber papers, but it's tonality is vastly superior. Bright whites deep tonal blacks, smoothly graded between. If your looking for a nice matte for B&W, that is probably it. I'd say either Canon or Epson should do.
Mar
16
comment What is the state of the art in black and white printing, particularly for large prints?
Any chance you've tried Canon Lucia EX with Canon's wide format printers? I like Epson printers, they are pheonomenal, but I too have not found that their B&W tonality is ideal. Canon also has some high quality pigment inks, and their 12-in system (Lucia EX) has a couple shades of gray. I've enjoyed my prints from Canon printers so far, good tonality and color, especially on decent papers. Which, BTW, using the right paper is paramount to getting good tonality...not every gloss, luster or satin is the same.
Mar
11
comment What do resolution figures mean in lens specifications?
Resolving is what produces the resolution of your output image. Oversampling has to do with how spatial frequencies mesh. Since the output resolution is the result of a convolution, there is no such thing as one thing outresolving another...however it is possible for a sensor to oversample the spatial frequencies of a lens. Also note...oversampling is generally considered for a given contrast ratio...such as MTF50. Lens resolving power increases as contrast drops...at MTF10, lenses resolve FAR higher resolution at most apertures than any current sensor, assuming they are diffraction limited.
Mar
11
comment What do resolution figures mean in lens specifications?
Yes, it is better when your oversampling. There is something called the Nyquist Rate, which is the minimum sampling rate at which you can minimally approximate an analog signal with any decent accuracy. For audio signals, the nyquist rate is 2x, or double the frequency of the audio. For spatial frequencies, it's actually 3.3x, when you account for the second dimension. That is, again, the MINIMUM sampling rate to get a decent approximation. You want to sample more than that for best results. Now, oversampling is not the same thing as outresolving, note that. ;)
Mar
11
comment What do resolution figures mean in lens specifications?
It is unlikely that any current sensor outresolves modern, current lenses that are on the market. The problem with a lot of lens tests is that they are tested on current cameras. That imposes a convolution problem, where the output resolution of the system as a whole is less than either the resolution of the sensor or the resolution of the lens. Resolution is not some concrete thing either...it doesn't just stop...it fades. At MTF50, most modern lenses at diffraction-limited apertures are good, at MTF10 they are phenomenal.
Mar
6
comment How can I colorize my astrophotography?
When you say it only captures black and white images...is that because the sensor is monochrome? Or is it just that things appear black and white when you stack? Some integration tools like DSS will automatically align channels for you, which can make your images look grayscale, when they are really not. If your using a standard DSLR, you images may indeed have color. If you are using a mono CCD, you could always get a filter wheel and use LRGB filters in sequence, and combine the channels in photoshop to produce color images.
Feb
21
comment What is the native color gamut of a modern digital sensor?
Well, Colorimetric Quality Factor or Gamut, whatever you choose to call it, the sensor and readout system of a camera DOES limit the range and discernment of colors within each camera. All cameras are not the same, some have considerably greater color and tonal discernment, others have less. There are many factors that play into this...native silicon response, color filter strength, etc. Render data from many cameras with the same algorithm, and these differences in hardware affect the rendering results.
Feb
21
comment What is the native color gamut of a modern digital sensor?
Gamut is more than coordinates on a two dimensional diagram. Gamut is the full three dimensional extent of color, it's saturation, and it's intensity. You would first need to measure...take photos of a proper test chart with sufficiently saturated and desaturated colors, of sufficiently varying degrees of intensity, and generate a full profile of the camera's gamut. That gamut could then be compared to other gamuts, or even full color spaces such as Lab*, to determine how effective it is at sensing and replicating color.
Feb
20
comment What is the native color gamut of a modern digital sensor?
I wasn't addressing the gamut maps, I was responding to this: "The raw values are not colors per se and the concept of gamut is not working well with raw output of digital cameras." I disagree that the concept of a gamut does not work well with digital cameras. The gamut of a digital camera would be bound by the sensor's color response and noise levels. Each image would then be limited in gamut (color extent) by that response.
Feb
20
comment What is the native color gamut of a modern digital sensor?
Gamut in a digital camera would be the color space supported by the camera sensor's response to light with respect to it's noise levels. Gamut is effectively the SPACE within which colors can be modeled. Newer cameras, particularly those with sensors using more modern manufacturing techniques and with much lower noise (Sony Exmor, Samsung's NX1 sensor) are going to support a much broader range of color than older sensor designs that still suffer from high noise, such as Canon sensors. To really measure a camera's color response, you need to test it with extreme colors.
Feb
19
comment What's the maximum length of USB cable that you can use for tethering?
I think the answer is ok, albeit rather light. I think some explanation about why such a cable is required. I would also note that with active booster cables, a powered hub on the far end (device end) is usually necessary for optimal performance and reliability
Feb
6
comment What is the difference between Canvera and Karizma wedding albums?
I agree with Bart, I see the question as asking about relative qualities. Hopefully someone who has used both can offer the necessary comparison. If not, maybe Subhajit could follow dpollitt's suggestion, then return and answer his own question for the future benefit of others. ;)
Jan
11
comment Lightroom/ACR Histogram Shape
Reference: photo.stackexchange.com/a/452/124
Jan
11
comment Methods for dithering a DSLR
Dithering is currently a software thing, not a mount thing. The mount is controlled by whatever is doing the dithering (most often a guiding program). So I don't think there is a hardware solution for you. I have provided an answer that covers dithering, what it is, how it's down, the consequences of not using it (with DSLR anyway), and what software can do it.
Jan
7
comment Where do rays of light from one point strike the film?
I'm inclined to keep this here for now. The ultimate goal is to use the knowledge to support a simulation program, but the concepts are definitely related to photography.