Napioa - Wind Origins

Napioa - Wind Origins
by octopus                

Submit your Photo
Hall of Fame

Please participate in Meta
and help us grow.

Reputation
58,971
Next tag badge:
568/400 score
78/80 answers
Badges
8 123 271
Newest
 Nice Answer
Impact
~3.3m people reached

Apr
24
comment Why should I use the widest aperture for star photography?
That is a difference of 4-7 orders of magnitude difference in light levels. The reason you would use a faster aperture is to get more light, not use a shorter exposure. The only caveat to that might be if you are imaging in a heavily light polluted area, in which case you might be limited to exposing for 2-3 minutes at f/4, 30s-90s at f/2.8. However in a light polluted area, you should be using a filter like the IDAS LPS-P2 or -D1 to block some of it.
Apr
24
comment Why should I use the widest aperture for star photography?
I wouldn't apply the "larger aperture allows for faster shutter speed" when it comes to astrophotography. That is daytime terrestrial photography thinking there, and it doesn't really apply to astrophotography. You need long exposures in astro, LONG exposures, so a faster aperture just means for whatever maximum exposure time you can handle, you get more light. You generally wouldn't want to reduce exposure when moving to a faster aperture, because you aren't getting enough light to start with. In astro, you work with around 0.002-0.005 lux, whereas most daytime photography is 500-100,000 lux!
Apr
24
comment Why should I use the widest aperture for star photography?
Glad to be of service. :) Astrophotography has become my obsession these days...learned a lot from years ago when I was just poking around with it.
Apr
22
answered Why should I use the widest aperture for star photography?
Apr
12
revised How can I calculate what the effect of an extension tube will be?
deleted 195 characters in body
Apr
5
awarded  Popular Question
Apr
3
comment How to do 1 or more photos per second without jitter using a Canon 7D?
I think davidsmith hit on a critical point. Is your focus manual, or set to AF? If set to AF, and AF is linked to the shutter, and you have the AF system set to lock focus before releasing the shutter, then you are very likely experiencing focus hunting which is resulting in the inconsistent timing. I would make sure your set to manual focus, manually focus on the area you want to expose, set a tighter aperture for deeper DOF, and see if that fixes the issue.
Apr
3
comment How to do 1 or more photos per second without jitter using a Canon 7D?
I am not sure how buffer congestion would be the problem at 1fps and with JPEG images. I think something else is going on...probably focus hunting or something like that.
Mar
25
comment How to achieve this smudge effect in photoshop?
I think user38275 nailed it. Looks like water with something that slightly clouded it to me. The strands of hair in the front definitely look like they are floating on a smooth water surface. There also seems to be a fairly well delinated point at which her face goes from being in clear air to being in the water. I don't know that you could get this precise a look with artificial fog...I'm not going to say it's impossible, but I think it would be significantly more difficult to do.
Mar
22
revised Does the size of blower matter to clean the sensor of the camera?
Removed "whiners"...unnecessary, inflamatory
Mar
22
comment Does the size of blower matter to clean the sensor of the camera?
I would like to keep this answer here. Ironically, even though the recommendation is not a good one, and the reasons why have been well documented, I think it is valuable to keep it around for the reaction and the comments. It is important people who come here from web searches and such know that using canned air with propellants comes with risks.
Mar
21
awarded  Nice Answer
Mar
20
answered How to disassemble a lens assembly?
Mar
20
awarded  filters
Mar
19
revised Can I photograph a solar eclipse using a 10-stop Big Stopper (+ extra ND?)
added 352 characters in body
Mar
19
answered Can I photograph a solar eclipse using a 10-stop Big Stopper (+ extra ND?)
Mar
19
answered How to soften harsh shadows during post processing?
Mar
16
comment Why doesn't a drastic change in aperture seem to have an effect on this city skyline photo?
There is a difference. At f/4 your suffering from CA, the softness around bright edges. At f/25, you have eliminated the CA. That is one of THE reasons to stop down, to reduce optical aberrations and achieve diffraction limited performance. To get optimal results, since depth of field changes do not have a recognizable impact on the image, you should use the maximum F# that does not reduce resolution...which is likely around f/8 rather than f/25.
Mar
16
comment What is the state of the art in black and white printing, particularly for large prints?
Those inks are usually Canon or Epson. I use Hahnenuhle paper myself, along with Moab. I like both brands, excellent papers either way. I have found that some of the Moab papers are better. One in particular produces some AMAZING deep shadow tonality, it's Lasal Photo Matte. This is an OBA paper, so it doesn't have the longevity of some acid free neutral white natural fiber papers, but it's tonality is vastly superior. Bright whites deep tonal blacks, smoothly graded between. If your looking for a nice matte for B&W, that is probably it. I'd say either Canon or Epson should do.
Mar
16
comment What is the state of the art in black and white printing, particularly for large prints?
Any chance you've tried Canon Lucia EX with Canon's wide format printers? I like Epson printers, they are pheonomenal, but I too have not found that their B&W tonality is ideal. Canon also has some high quality pigment inks, and their 12-in system (Lucia EX) has a couple shades of gray. I've enjoyed my prints from Canon printers so far, good tonality and color, especially on decent papers. Which, BTW, using the right paper is paramount to getting good tonality...not every gloss, luster or satin is the same.