Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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56,058 reputation
8112259
bio website jonrista.com
location Aurora, CO
age 35
visits member for 4 years, 9 months
seen 2 days ago

I am a relatively new photographer, having been at if for only a few years. I chose Canon gear when I finally took the plunge into DSLR. I am an avid hobbyist now, and love everything about photography, from the gear, to the science, to the art. I spent years reading about the technology and photography theory, so I am very well versed in the technical aspects of photography. My artistic skills are moderate, but improving. You can see my work @ the following sites:

My interests lie primarily in nature photography:

  • Birds
    • Songbird Setups
    • Shore Birds & Waders
    • Raptors
    • All others
  • Astrophotography
    • Moon
    • Wide Field
    • Deep Sky
  • Landscapes
  • Wildlife
  • Floral Macro
  • Insect Macro
  • Abstract

I currently use the following gear:

  • Cameras
    • Canon EOS 7D
    • Canon EOS 450D (Rebel XSi)
  • Lenses
    • EF 16-35 f/2.8 USM L Wide
    • EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
    • EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro
    • EF 100-400mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM L Zoom
    • EF 600mm f/4 L IS II
    • Canon EF 1.4x TC III
    • Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DGX
    • Periodic Rentals:
      • EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS II
      • EF 500mm f/4 L IS II
      • Canon EF 2x TC III
  • Filters
    • Lee Foundation Kit (x2) + Tandem Adapter
    • Lee .3/.6 ND
    • Lee .3/.6/.9 Soft Grad ND
    • Lee .3/.6/.9 Hard Grad ND
    • Lee CPL
  • Tripod
    • Gitzo Systematic GT3532LS 3S. Series 3 Tripod
    • Jobu Pro 2 Gimbal
    • Gitzo Mountaineer GT0541 4S. Series.0 Tripod
    • Gitzo GH1780QR Series.1 Mag. Center Ball Head

Oct
20
answered What are the differences between Epson v330/300 and Epson v500 scanners?
Oct
20
answered Is it possible to use a lower ISO instead of ND filters?
Oct
19
comment Is it worth it to have the 50mm f/1.8 Canon lens?
@Matt: True, it is really, really cheap. However, the better build of the 1.4 should last for many years at least, where as the 1.8 could break at any time leaving you in the lurch. I wouldn't say the cost more than makes up for the lack of durability, but it does somewhat make up for it.
Oct
19
comment What should I do to switch my gear from Sony to Canon?
You state that the Sony 85/1.4 is the best of its focal length available. I've red several reviews of the Zeiss 85/1.4, which I believe is the same thing as the Sony. It is a superb lens, however in comparisons with Canon's 85/1.2, I found the Canon to be superior in several ways. One of the things that annoyed me about the Zeiss 85/1.4 was its focus plane shift as you stopped down...terribly annoying problem. It also appeared that flare was FAR better controlled with the Canon 85...it looked pretty bad in reviews of the Zeiss 85. Categorically, there are pros and cons for both brands.
Oct
19
comment What should I do to switch my gear from Sony to Canon?
I think it is very difficult to categorically state that one particular lens from one manufacturer is far better than anything else in its class. Canon has some superb 135mm portrait lenses, including a soft-focus lens that does a fantastic job naturally smoothing out skin without giving it that hideous look you get when its smoothed out with Photoshop. Even though it is not f/1.8 (which would have an extremely thin DOF), it is still an excellent lens.
Oct
19
comment What does “expanded ISO” mean?
On a Canon, ISO 100 is the true base ISO, not an expanded ISO, so you get true benefit by using ISO 100 over ISO 200. Some Canons are "expandable" to ISO 50, some down to ISO 25, and others have an ISO 80, all of which are "artificial" rather than a true analog ISO.
Oct
19
awarded  Nice Answer
Oct
19
awarded  Suffrage
Oct
19
answered Upgrade advice pentax to canon + which canon 50D/60D or 7D
Oct
18
accepted Is a “Zone” Large Format Camera with gold plating legit?
Oct
18
revised What's the best number of shots to combine to produce an HDR photo?
added 978 characters in body
Oct
18
answered Is it worth it to have the 50mm f/1.8 Canon lens?
Oct
18
comment Is there always a way to capture all the light ranges to get good HDR images?
I guess another important point to make (Matt already made it, but to be clearer) is that the vast majority of "HDR" images are indeed NOT high dynamic range images...they are simply LDR images that have been tone-mapped from HDR images. That doesn't mitigate the benefits of using the alternative and simpler Exposure Fusion process to create improved LDR images, though. It just means that the final results of any process are all ultimately LDR images that can be viewed on the limited gamut's of computer screens and prints.
Oct
18
comment Is there always a way to capture all the light ranges to get good HDR images?
@Matt: I would dispute the fact that discussing the differences is irrelevant. In my experience, enfused images look a hell of a lot better than LDR images tone-maped from HDR images, even after hours of meticulous tweaking of tone curves or exposure settings. It is possible to create a superb image with exposure fusion with hardly any effort, while it takes a lot of careful effort to create a truly superb image with HDR & tone mapping. In that respect, I think the process differences are very important, and very relevant.
Oct
18
comment How do I generate high quality prints with an ink jet printer?
@labnut re Jobs & iPhone: I have several co-workers who have the new iPhone 4. I must say, it really is the most amazing screen I have ever seen. I've spent quite a bit of time trying to see any individual pixels, and so far, I've failed. I would quite honestly die to have a 30" computer screen with th this density. One thing I've learned, I think, is that visual acuity with emissive dots is a bit different (lower?) than with absorptive dots. I've closely scrutinized the iPhone and never seen a dot, however I can see dots when I closely scrutinize a print. Complex stuff, for sure.
Oct
18
comment How do I generate high quality prints with an ink jet printer?
Despite all the theory and mathematics behind printing, there is a very simple fact about detail in a print that pretty much blows it all out of the water. If you hand someone a 300ppi print, they will think its wonderful and amazingly detailed. They will think the same thing if you hand them a 600ppi print instead. Show them a 600ppi print one day, and a 300ppi version the next, and they normally won't notice any differences (there are exceptions to that, but few). It is only when someone sees both prints side by side are they able to consciously notice the improvement of a 600ppi print. ;-)
Oct
18
comment How do I generate high quality prints with an ink jet printer?
@labnut: Indeed, visual acuity is dependent on age. There is an ideal point during childhood where it is at its highest, after which it degrades. As you stated, though, one arcminute is the population average, and it is the correct value for the majority of adults. As I've done more tests, I've noticed my own visual acuity is actually better than I figured on, and I print most things from 8x10 and lower at 600ppi unless I know for a fact there isn't enough fine detail for it to matter. I've watched people over time as well, and noticed how frequently people move closer for a better view.
Oct
18
comment How can I get the shutter actuation count for Canon EOS 500D/550D?
Sadly, it looks like that EOSInfo tool has not been updated since the 450D. It has the 500D listed, but highlighted in red and crossed out. :( I too would be interested in knowing if there is a good way of figuring out how many true shutter actuations there have been on any Canon body.
Oct
18
awarded  Nice Answer
Oct
18
comment Is there always a way to capture all the light ranges to get good HDR images?
You can read more about the specifics at this link: tawbaware.com/tufuse.htm. There is a link to the original paper on Exposure Fusion in there as well, which describes the theory and algorithm in depth.