Autumn...

Autumn...

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jrista

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meta site favicon meta user | stack exchange network profile network profile
46,638 reputation
478214
bio website jonrista.com
location Denver, CO
age 33
visits member for 2 years, 11 months
seen 2 hours ago
stats profile views 1,799

I am a relatively new photographer, having been at if for only a few years. I chose Canon gear when I finally took the plunge into DSLR. I am an avid hobbyist now, and love everything about photography, from the gear, to the science, to the art. I spent years reading about the technology and photography theory, so I am very well versed in the technical aspects of photography. My artistic skills are moderate, but improving. You can see my work @ the following sites:

My interests lie primarily in nature photography:

  • Birds
    • Songbird Setups
    • Shore Birds & Waders
    • Raptors
    • All others
  • Astrophotography
    • Moon
    • Wide Field
    • Deep Sky
  • Landscapes
  • Wildlife
  • Floral Macro
  • Insect Macro
  • Abstract

I currently use the following gear:

  • Cameras
    • Canon EOS 7D
    • Canon EOS 450D (Rebel XSi)
  • Lenses
    • EF 16-35 f/2.8 USM L Wide
    • EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
    • EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro
    • EF 100-400mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM L Zoom
    • EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS II (Periodic rentals)
    • EF 500mm f/4 L IS II (Periodic rentals)
    • EF 600mm f/4 L IS II (Periodic rentals)
    • Canon EF 1.4x TC III
    • Canon EF 2x TC III
    • Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DGX
  • Filters
    • Lee Foundation Kit (x2) + Tandem Adapter
    • Lee .3/.6 ND
    • Lee .3/.6/.9 Soft Grad ND
    • Lee .3/.6/.9 Hard Grad ND
    • Lee CPL
  • Tripod
    • Gitzo Systematic GT3532LS 3S. Series 3 Tripod
    • Jobu Pro 2 Gimbal
    • Gitzo Mountaineer GT0541 4S. Series.0 Tripod
    • Gitzo GH1780QR Series.1 Mag. Center Ball Head

4,377 Actions

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3h
 comment Longer exposure & lower ISO or shorter exposure & higher ISO - what gives better results when photographing stars?
The unit is in electrons. A virtual charge of ~6.1 "electrons" is a lesser charge than 33.1 "electrons". Since pixels are really just capacitive photodiodes that convert a certain percentage of incident photons into charge, more read noise (higher number) is usually worse. In terms of maximum well capacity, as relative ratios, the two cameras have similar read "relative" read noise. However, in absolute terms, for any given amount of light incident on a pixel, the 7D actually performs a little better in the deep shadows than the 5D III (a benefit that quickly disappears as exposure increases.)
5h
 comment Longer exposure & lower ISO or shorter exposure & higher ISO - what gives better results when photographing stars?
I think you have that backwards...the point of increasing SNR is to reduce the need to boost in post, preferably to the point where you don't need to boost at all (i.e. stacking several longer exposures in a tool like DSS.)
5h
 awarded  Nice Answer
6h
 comment Longer exposure & lower ISO or shorter exposure & higher ISO - what gives better results when photographing stars?
Boosting exposure, on the other hand, whether that is done by increasing ISO or by editing exposure in post, is NOT the same as increasing SNR. Boosting exposure simply changes the white point, without changing SNR at all. (Just and important distinction I think needs to be clear.)
6h
 comment Longer exposure & lower ISO or shorter exposure & higher ISO - what gives better results when photographing stars?
Great points! One note: Keep in mind that SNR and "boosting exposure" are not the same thing. SNR is a matter of increasing the literal amount of light that reaches the sensor (longer exposure at same aperture, including with the use of a tracking mount if possible), which will have the effect of increasing the number of stars who's signal surpasses that of the read-noise floor. Additionally, increasing SNR will improve the image signal relative to the intrinsic noise (photon shot noise) in the signal. Increasing SNR has the effect of reducing the impact of ALL forms of noise.
6h
 comment Longer exposure & lower ISO or shorter exposure & higher ISO - what gives better results when photographing stars?
LENR is designed to remove READ noise (noise contributed by the electronics post-pixel output.) The LENR would have a bigger impact on the 5D III at ISO settings up to 800, as the 5D III has higher read noise (6.1e- at 800, 33.1e- (!!) at 100) than the 7D (2.8e- at 800, 8.4e- at 100). Beyond ISO 800, I don't think you would notice much of a difference between the two, or for that matter even much of a difference between having LENR on or off, as read noise is ~3e- or less at those higher ISO settings. I suspect, assuming you actually do run into thermal noise issues, LENR would probably help.
7h
 comment Are there any alternate eyepieces for people with glasses?
I am not sure about Nikon, however I know Canon does offer eyepieces with an extended rubber hood, as well as an additional diopter, for people who wear glasses. I used to use one, but I did not like how the dipoter lens in the eyepiece worked...it shrunk the size of the viewfinder image, which made it harder to detect focus. These days, I try to slip in some contacts whenever I head out to do photography...just results in a far superior experience.
14h
 revised Longer exposure & lower ISO or shorter exposure & higher ISO - what gives better results when photographing stars?
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15h
 answered How was this high-gloss achieved when taking photos of skyscrapers?
16h
 answered Longer exposure & lower ISO or shorter exposure & higher ISO - what gives better results when photographing stars?
1d
 comment What's an easy way to batch assign (not convert) an ICC profile to .JPG and .CR2 Canon RAW files?
I'm a bit confused...Canon cameras, for quite some time, have had the option to set the ICC tagging of JPEG (not RAW, just JPEG) with a camera setting. You should have the option of selecting whether to tag as sRGB or tag as AdobeRGB. This setting usually has no bearing whatsoever on RAW, which are frequently edited/converted in the ProPhotoRGB space in RAW editors, but it SHOULD be tagging the jpegs....
1d
 comment What is difference between tonal contrast and just contrast?
Matt pretty much nailed it...just a simpler tool. Curves can achieve the same thing for sure, but curves can also do a hell of a lot more, and in each color channel independently. Curves are really an advanced tool, where as a tonal contrast slider is just another basic setting that you can tweak with ease. For all intents and purposes, Lightroom's monochrome "Tone Curve" IS "Tonal Contrast". Difference is it can be switched to full RGB point curve editing as well, which makes it a much more powerful tool than simply "tonal contrast".
1d
 answered What is difference between tonal contrast and just contrast?
1d
 answered How to post-process underexposed sunset images?
1d
 revised Upgrade to Full Frame (5D mark II) or buy Lens (24-105L)
added 548 characters in body
1d
 comment Upgrade to Full Frame (5D mark II) or buy Lens (24-105L)
Assuming the OP is willing to buy used. In which case, it is still possible to pick up the lens used as well, and pay less than $2700 for the whole package...IF that is what the OP wishes to do. Either way, it is not difficult to get both the lens and the body for quite cheap in the grand scheme of things.
1d
 comment Upgrade to Full Frame (5D mark II) or buy Lens (24-105L)
Sure, not trying to diminish your answer...it is entirely valid to point out the lack of viability of EF-S on FF cameras. That said, I think the underlying concern of the asker is unwarranted when he can pick up the full kit with both the body and lens for $50 more than just the body itself. ;)
1d
 revised Is 16.7 Million Colour wide gamut?
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1d
 comment Is 16.7 Million Colour wide gamut?
One little nit pick: images *produced* in AdobeRGB should really be images *tagged with* AdobeRGB. You can produce images in any color space you want. What matters is that they are converted to and tagged with the target space so that the images are rendered appropriately to downstream viewers. Remember, RGB is RGB, if it's 8-bit every color component will always have a range of 0-255. What matters is how those colors are MAPPED WHEN RENDERED. The mapping is really what gamut refers to.
1d
 comment What is the meaning of “Blue Hour” and its differences from “Golden Hour?”
Blue hour is actually when the sun is quite a ways below the horizon. Golden hour STARTS when the sun is "low" on the horizon, and continues until the sun is below the horizon. Golden hour can last literally as long as an hour or so, often less (depending on your latitude, maybe as little as 30 minutes)...so long as there is still remnants of red reflecting off the clouds and a warmer hue to the sky. Blue hour starts after golden hour has ended...you should only see gray cloud silhouettes and a darker/blueish sky.
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