Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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55,948 reputation
8112259
bio website jonrista.com
location Aurora, CO
age 35
visits member for 4 years, 9 months
seen 17 hours ago

I am a relatively new photographer, having been at if for only a few years. I chose Canon gear when I finally took the plunge into DSLR. I am an avid hobbyist now, and love everything about photography, from the gear, to the science, to the art. I spent years reading about the technology and photography theory, so I am very well versed in the technical aspects of photography. My artistic skills are moderate, but improving. You can see my work @ the following sites:

My interests lie primarily in nature photography:

  • Birds
    • Songbird Setups
    • Shore Birds & Waders
    • Raptors
    • All others
  • Astrophotography
    • Moon
    • Wide Field
    • Deep Sky
  • Landscapes
  • Wildlife
  • Floral Macro
  • Insect Macro
  • Abstract

I currently use the following gear:

  • Cameras
    • Canon EOS 7D
    • Canon EOS 450D (Rebel XSi)
  • Lenses
    • EF 16-35 f/2.8 USM L Wide
    • EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
    • EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro
    • EF 100-400mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM L Zoom
    • EF 600mm f/4 L IS II
    • Canon EF 1.4x TC III
    • Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DGX
    • Periodic Rentals:
      • EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS II
      • EF 500mm f/4 L IS II
      • Canon EF 2x TC III
  • Filters
    • Lee Foundation Kit (x2) + Tandem Adapter
    • Lee .3/.6 ND
    • Lee .3/.6/.9 Soft Grad ND
    • Lee .3/.6/.9 Hard Grad ND
    • Lee CPL
  • Tripod
    • Gitzo Systematic GT3532LS 3S. Series 3 Tripod
    • Jobu Pro 2 Gimbal
    • Gitzo Mountaineer GT0541 4S. Series.0 Tripod
    • Gitzo GH1780QR Series.1 Mag. Center Ball Head

Apr
12
revised How can I calculate what the effect of an extension tube will be?
deleted 195 characters in body
Apr
5
awarded  Popular Question
Apr
3
comment How to do 1 or more photos per second without jitter using a Canon 7D?
I think davidsmith hit on a critical point. Is your focus manual, or set to AF? If set to AF, and AF is linked to the shutter, and you have the AF system set to lock focus before releasing the shutter, then you are very likely experiencing focus hunting which is resulting in the inconsistent timing. I would make sure your set to manual focus, manually focus on the area you want to expose, set a tighter aperture for deeper DOF, and see if that fixes the issue.
Apr
3
comment How to do 1 or more photos per second without jitter using a Canon 7D?
I am not sure how buffer congestion would be the problem at 1fps and with JPEG images. I think something else is going on...probably focus hunting or something like that.
Mar
25
comment How to achieve this smudge effect in photoshop?
I think user38275 nailed it. Looks like water with something that slightly clouded it to me. The strands of hair in the front definitely look like they are floating on a smooth water surface. There also seems to be a fairly well delinated point at which her face goes from being in clear air to being in the water. I don't know that you could get this precise a look with artificial fog...I'm not going to say it's impossible, but I think it would be significantly more difficult to do.
Mar
22
revised Does the size of blower matter to clean the sensor of the camera?
Removed "whiners"...unnecessary, inflamatory
Mar
22
comment Does the size of blower matter to clean the sensor of the camera?
I would like to keep this answer here. Ironically, even though the recommendation is not a good one, and the reasons why have been well documented, I think it is valuable to keep it around for the reaction and the comments. It is important people who come here from web searches and such know that using canned air with propellants comes with risks.
Mar
21
awarded  Nice Answer
Mar
20
answered How to disassemble a lens assembly?
Mar
20
awarded  filters
Mar
19
revised Can I photograph a solar eclipse using a 10-stop Big Stopper (+ extra ND?)
added 352 characters in body
Mar
19
answered Can I photograph a solar eclipse using a 10-stop Big Stopper (+ extra ND?)
Mar
19
answered How to soften harsh shadows during post processing?
Mar
16
comment Why doesn't a drastic change in aperture seem to have an effect on this city skyline photo?
There is a difference. At f/4 your suffering from CA, the softness around bright edges. At f/25, you have eliminated the CA. That is one of THE reasons to stop down, to reduce optical aberrations and achieve diffraction limited performance. To get optimal results, since depth of field changes do not have a recognizable impact on the image, you should use the maximum F# that does not reduce resolution...which is likely around f/8 rather than f/25.
Mar
16
comment What is the state of the art in black and white printing, particularly for large prints?
Those inks are usually Canon or Epson. I use Hahnenuhle paper myself, along with Moab. I like both brands, excellent papers either way. I have found that some of the Moab papers are better. One in particular produces some AMAZING deep shadow tonality, it's Lasal Photo Matte. This is an OBA paper, so it doesn't have the longevity of some acid free neutral white natural fiber papers, but it's tonality is vastly superior. Bright whites deep tonal blacks, smoothly graded between. If your looking for a nice matte for B&W, that is probably it. I'd say either Canon or Epson should do.
Mar
16
comment What is the state of the art in black and white printing, particularly for large prints?
Any chance you've tried Canon Lucia EX with Canon's wide format printers? I like Epson printers, they are pheonomenal, but I too have not found that their B&W tonality is ideal. Canon also has some high quality pigment inks, and their 12-in system (Lucia EX) has a couple shades of gray. I've enjoyed my prints from Canon printers so far, good tonality and color, especially on decent papers. Which, BTW, using the right paper is paramount to getting good tonality...not every gloss, luster or satin is the same.
Mar
13
awarded  Notable Question
Mar
11
reviewed Approve What do resolution figures mean in lens specifications?
Mar
11
comment What do resolution figures mean in lens specifications?
Resolving is what produces the resolution of your output image. Oversampling has to do with how spatial frequencies mesh. Since the output resolution is the result of a convolution, there is no such thing as one thing outresolving another...however it is possible for a sensor to oversample the spatial frequencies of a lens. Also note...oversampling is generally considered for a given contrast ratio...such as MTF50. Lens resolving power increases as contrast drops...at MTF10, lenses resolve FAR higher resolution at most apertures than any current sensor, assuming they are diffraction limited.
Mar
11
comment What do resolution figures mean in lens specifications?
Yes, it is better when your oversampling. There is something called the Nyquist Rate, which is the minimum sampling rate at which you can minimally approximate an analog signal with any decent accuracy. For audio signals, the nyquist rate is 2x, or double the frequency of the audio. For spatial frequencies, it's actually 3.3x, when you account for the second dimension. That is, again, the MINIMUM sampling rate to get a decent approximation. You want to sample more than that for best results. Now, oversampling is not the same thing as outresolving, note that. ;)