Shadowy Daisy

Shadowy Daisy
by damned-truths

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Easiest fix Only shoot the bird when the sun is at your back, not behind the bird. Given how redtails circle where I am, I sometimes just wait as I draw a bead and follow them around the circle, to where the light is falling on them nicely. However. This will be rarer than backlit opportunities, because a hunting hawk doesn't like to fly into the light ...


It's NOT (only) the exposure. This situation calls for more than the correct exposure which you will discover if you are able to bracket your exposures to select the one with the subject optimally exposed. No matter which one you choose from among the series, it will not show the plumage correctly. Why? The bird you illustrate against a clear blue sky has ...


Warning: I have not tried this and don't know if it'll really help much. Either going full manual, or setting an Auto mode to overexpose by a stop may help. Then, consider adding both a polarizing filter and a yellow filter to darken the sky background as much as possible without significantly mucking with the spectrum from the bird.


Well, in order to get good results, you'll have to make the plunge into non-auto settings. I'd recommend Manual mode. The problem you're running into here is that you are pointing your camera at a bird in the sky, which is bright. Camera meters are set up to try and make every exposure a uniform grey in terms of brightness. So if you point your camera at ...


The short answers are: If using a FF lens use a FF body. If using a APS-C lens use a APS-C body. If you need to crop the FF image in post to get closer, then use an APS-C otherwise FF may be better after all.


Full frame cameras offer better results in form of sharpness and noise, so you could use a full frame and crop it later in APS-C format.


Most answers here compare the use of a crop-sensor camera with the option of cropping in post. This raises the question of comparing either megapixel counts or pixel densities, as discussed in all the answers. However, all these answers fail to address a very essential issue: viewfinder magnification. Crop-sensor cameras almost universally have a larger ...


There's no universal answer. Cameras are different, with differing resolutions, pixel pitch, and noise performance. A newer camera can trump a bigger camera. Does the bigger one have bigger pixels, more pixels the same pitch, or something in between, which makes them harder to compare? Also, you might be able to afford a much better lens (or only use the ...


You could use APS-C camera to save some considerable weight, size or money. But if you are looking for the best image quality especially when the light is not plentiful, top of the line FF cameras will give you better chance compared to the same generation APS.


There can definitely be some benefit to be gained by using a crop sensor camera when longer focal length is desireable. It is one of the reasons compact "superzoom" cameras can give fields of view equivalent to 1000mm+ focal lengths on a full frame camera with a much smaller lens than would be required to get that same FoV using a full frame sensor camera. ...


Crop sensors are indeed used for wildlife to get more reach without sacrificing megapixels. And, you can get closer images without spending as much money. Sure, you could crop, but then your printing dimensions will be reduced. For display on the web, at 72dpi or so, it wouldn't matter if you cropped. All that said, remember that to get the same image as a ...


Not necessarily. The APS-C sensor merely crops the image that would have been captured on a full frame sensor, so you end up with what you'd get if you used a full frame and cropped in post (see: Does my crop sensor camera actually turn my lenses into a longer focal length? and Is crop-factor a bad thing?) But given a full-frame and a crop sensor of the ...

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