Nidelva river through Trondheim Norway

Nidelva river through Trondheim Norway
by Saaru Lindestokke                

Submit your Photo
Hall of Fame

Please participate in Meta
and help us grow.

Hot answers tagged

33

There are a couple things you need to get great super-close macro shots of insects. The first, and supremely most important, is patience. You are going to fail to get the shot FAR more than you will succeed when trying to get 1:1 or better insect macros. Over time, two things will happen: As you hang around a location, insects will become adjusted to you, ...


26

There are several related questions here. Are mirror lenses good at all (opinion) Are mirror lenses good for wldlife shots in daylight. Are cheap mirror lenses value for money. Relevant: I own a Minolta 500mm AF f8 "Reflex" lens- the only model of AF "mirror" lens ever made AFAIK and one of the better quality ones around. I think that as long as you ...


21

Long macro lens Patience Ninja training Camp out a flower bed Most wild things in general (birds, animals, insects) will let you take better pictures if you just hang around the area long enough to become a normal part of their environment. Edit: Ninja skills or not, I don't recommend camping out some areas...like say...wolves dens...


18

If you're going to take courses, I'd suggest you take them in zoology, wildlife preservation and management, or related fields about wildlife. While learning to master your camera and getting the correct lenses and support gear and learning the proper techniques for the type of wildlife you want to shoot is going to be important, the one skill you absolutely ...


17

There are several custom function options available to the 7D which can be configured to assist with tracking moving objects: C.FnIII -1 AI Servo Tracking Sensitivity You want this set to "Slow" - this will stop the AF system trying to refocus on anything that briefly passes between you and the subject you are tracking - handy with birds where branches etc ...


15

From my experience with my 7D and now a 5D (mkIII), I'd say for wildlife stuff, the 7D would be your preferred choice, for four reasons:- APS-C 1.6x crop sensor. This will extend the reach of any and all lenses you put on your camera. A 200mm becomes a 320, a 400mm becomes a 640, etc. Using teleconverters will cost you light, and therefore require slower ...


11

Thomas Shahan made a youtube video on using an 80 dollar reversed lens to take excellent macro shots of insects: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqRn3at0H60 I like the top youtube comment: "You're like the Bob Ross of macrophotography" :) His macro insect shots are the best I have seen (http://www.flickr.com/photos/opoterser).


11

The mm of a lens is the focal length. To take close-up shots of things far away, you need a "long" focal length, which means high mm. An entry or mid-level Canon camera has an "APS-C" sized sensor. The sensor size is really what determines what the meaning of the focal length is — focal length and sensor size together give you angle of view. (See my visual ...


10

The best way seems to be to set up and then wait for the insects to come to you. Look at this image and see if you can guess how it was shot: The answer is rather mundane, I was sitting at my computer late at night and the moth came in and landed on my monitor. I left the monitor on and grabbed a macro lens and flash. The flash overpowered the monitor ...


10

For your wife, ISO 800 to ISO 1600 are probably correct, given that she photographs birds. Photographing birds is very difficult, particularly those in flight, with the 450D. It does not have very great AF (autofocus), and bird photography generally requires very long lenses (400mm telephoto is about the shortest focal length one should use when ...


10

I use the Canon 100-400 as my goto lens for bird and animal photography. It's awesome and I love the lens. Powerful and flexible and worth the cost. It works well handheld and on a tripod. it's not a lens I'd put a teleconverter on, though. (I also have the 300 F/4 that I use a lot with a 1.4x attached on a tripod) I also have the Sigma 180 macro, and it's ...


10

Disclaimer: This is second hand information, so YMMV. While I was guiding a tour in Ecuador, I met a photographer who spent almost 10 years chasing hummingbirds for a book. We spent an hour or so talking about how to photograph them. Here are the basics: They are too fast to freeze with a high-speed shutter. Use flash with an ultra-fast discharge speed. ...


10

The tamron 28-300 is a fascinating and frustrating lens. It doesn't go wide enough (on a cop sensor camera like the 500d or 7d, I'd want the wide angle for landscape to be more liky 15-17 and not 28; it makes me want to add the sigma 10-20 to my arsenal). And at the telephoto end, it goes soft like most super zooms do. I try not to use it much past 28-150 ...


10

This is going to depend very much on what camera body you are using. Canon cameras do not focus past f/5.6 unless you are using a 1-series body (or are willing to do some warranty-voiding pin taping to force f/8 AF on unsupported bodies...which is usually a moot exercise anyway). Slapping a 2x TC onto a 70-200 f/4 is going to give you an f/8 aperture, and ...


9

Insects are cold-blooded, so they slow down if the temperature is low. Taking photos early morning is easier. An other option (I've never tried myself) is to catch the insect and put it into the refrigerator for a few minutes. It will also slow down them. Try not to kill the bug of course.


9

The 70-200 F2.8L IS II works fine with a 2.0x teleconverter. That's my standard birding and critter lens these days. It's sharper than a 300F4+1.4x (my previous go to lens), and MUCH sharper than a canon 100-400 @ 400mm (my initial birding len). All are acceptable, the 70-200+2.0x is incredibly sharp and I'm really impressed with that lens combo. I use that ...


9

You don't become a surgeon without first becoming a doctor. Similarly wildlife photography is a specialization of our hobby that you get into later. I would recommend that you first buy a cheap beginner camera and lens and learn basic photography, click pictures of birds, pets and what not. If you find that photography is to your liking then invest in a ...


8

I think your best bet would be the brand new Canon Powershot SX40 HS. It has an astounding 35x optical zoom or a 24mm-840mm eqiv range. This camera is brand new and was announced as shipping at the end of September 2011. As for the shooting speed - this camera has two options. You can shoot at a continuous 2.4fps until you fill the memory card. Or you have ...


8

This addresses only my opinion on one less-central aspect of the question: I agree that the more extreme forms of what you describe are unethical or immoral. As well as avoiding mistreatment of the target animal, I would personally never use live-bait for anything, but that's a personal choice and many would be happy to do so. But I don't see too much ...


8

I own that lens. It is, indeed, a solid performer at that range for the money it commands. You'll find a lot of grey area when evaluating whether it's the right next lens for you, but I'd certainly encourage you to stay away from the 75-300; it's just not a good performer when stacked up against low/mid-range lenses like the 55-250 or 70-300. You may find ...


7

I would say no, but only because I have been around possums. If cornered or threatened, they can get downright vicious and they move very quickly. If you've ever seen one in this kind of state, you'd appreciate the damage they can do. Getting you and your camera inches in front of a mother with babies will probably result in (at least) your camera getting ...


7

You do not specify why your current lens is "not sufficient", but the following are all excellent lenses for wildlife photography, depending on your exact requirements: Canon EF 200mm f2.8L II USM (~£600) Canon EF 300mm f4L IS USM (~£1000) Canon EF 400mm f5.6L USM (~£1000) The latter two are £100 over budget, but I don't think you would be disappointed ...


7

It is great that you know what you want to shoot and have a respectable budget. The issue with what you are asking is that you will not be able to satisfy all those requirements at any price. The most critical is that bird photography takes long lenses which are they also need to be bright when you want to shoot wildlife in low-light. Honestly, it's hard to ...


7

That's a complicated want list with things that are fundamentally in conflict. Here are what I think are the key thigns you're asking for: Canon Body landscapes and people (wide angle zoom) flowers and occasional macro-style shots birds and critters (big, powerful telephoto) Body $2000, lens $2000 (max, $1500 preferred). So, $3500 total. Lightweight. ...


7

I'd say that if you have to ask which lens would be most suitable, you're probably going to want the range of the Sigma 50-500mm. The 70-200mm f/2.8 is the best of the lenses you listed. The 70-300mm D has gone through a couple updates over the years, so compared to the other 2, it's a bit dated. But because you're not exactly sure of what you'll be seeing, ...


6

One of the best things you can do to photograph any animal, whether it be a bird, insect, wolf, or for that matter, human, is to learn about your intended subject. I've gotten some great shots of bees by learning where they hang out around my house, and what time of year they hang around. I'll share a few pictures, and answer how I captured them. This ...


6

I went on a tiger safari in India last year and I didn't find shooting on safari that different to shooting in the park on a technical basis. I took some amazing shots myself but my biggest regret (though not a big one) is that the photos I took of larger animals didn't give them any context. I took some full frame shots of tigers looking towards me and ...


6

There is no one lens that can do everything you want because wildlife and landscape require almost the exact opposite lens properties. I have the 18-135 and I love it as a travel lens - but it's not a good wildlife lens. For wildlife you want a long focal length and fast accurate auto-focus, long lenses tend to be big and heavy so they aren't very ...


6

As someone who occasionally indulges in bird photography, shoots micro four-thirds, and has adapted manual lenses to her Canon dSLRs, I'd say don't do it. The lens will be disproportionately big and heavy compared to your G5, and the lack of autofocus (and EXIF, and aperture control from the body unless the lens has an aperture ring) will probably be more ...


6

It depends on how you define "work". And it depends on the lens with which you are working. If it means everything will work the way it does as you are now shooting with only the EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 lens the answer is no. Autofocus: Because your T3 limits your auto focus system to lenses with maximum apertures of f/5.6 or wider, even a 1.4x ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible