Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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31

There are a couple things you need to get great super-close macro shots of insects. The first, and supremely most important, is patience. You are going to fail to get the shot FAR more than you will succeed when trying to get 1:1 or better insect macros. Over time, two things will happen: As you hang around a location, insects will become adjusted to you, ...


23

There are several related questions here. Are mirror lenses good at all (opinion) Are mirror lenses good for wldlife shots in daylight. Are cheap mirror lenses value for money. Relevant: I own a Minolta 500mm AF f8 "Reflex" lens- the only model of AF "mirror" lens ever made AFAIK and one of the better quality ones around. I think that as long as you ...


21

Long macro lens Patience Ninja training Camp out a flower bed Most wild things in general (birds, animals, insects) will let you take better pictures if you just hang around the area long enough to become a normal part of their environment. Edit: Ninja skills or not, I don't recommend camping out some areas...like say...wolves dens...


16

There are several custom function options available to the 7D which can be configured to assist with tracking moving objects: C.FnIII -1 AI Servo Tracking Sensitivity You want this set to "Slow" - this will stop the AF system trying to refocus on anything that briefly passes between you and the subject you are tracking - handy with birds where branches etc ...


15

From my experience with my 7D and now a 5D (mkIII), I'd say for wildlife stuff, the 7D would be your preferred choice, for four reasons:- APS-C 1.6x crop sensor. This will extend the reach of any and all lenses you put on your camera. A 200mm becomes a 320, a 400mm becomes a 640, etc. Using teleconverters will cost you light, and therefore require slower ...


11

Thomas Shahan made a youtube video on using an 80 dollar reversed lens to take excellent macro shots of insects: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqRn3at0H60 I like the top youtube comment: "You're like the Bob Ross of macrophotography" :) His macro insect shots are the best I have seen (http://www.flickr.com/photos/opoterser).


10

For your wife, ISO 800 to ISO 1600 are probably correct, given that she photographs birds. Photographing birds is very difficult, particularly those in flight, with the 450D. It does not have very great AF (autofocus), and bird photography generally requires very long lenses (400mm telephoto is about the shortest focal length one should use when ...


10

I use the Canon 100-400 as my goto lens for bird and animal photography. It's awesome and I love the lens. Powerful and flexible and worth the cost. It works well handheld and on a tripod. it's not a lens I'd put a teleconverter on, though. (I also have the 300 F/4 that I use a lot with a 1.4x attached on a tripod) I also have the Sigma 180 macro, and it's ...


10

Disclaimer: This is second hand information, so YMMV. While I was guiding a tour in Ecuador, I met a photographer who spent almost 10 years chasing hummingbirds for a book. We spent an hour or so talking about how to photograph them. Here are the basics: They are too fast to freeze with a high-speed shutter. Use flash with an ultra-fast discharge speed. ...


10

The tamron 28-300 is a fascinating and frustrating lens. It doesn't go wide enough (on a cop sensor camera like the 500d or 7d, I'd want the wide angle for landscape to be more liky 15-17 and not 28; it makes me want to add the sigma 10-20 to my arsenal). And at the telephoto end, it goes soft like most super zooms do. I try not to use it much past 28-150 ...


9

Insects are cold-blooded, so they slow down if the temperature is low. Taking photos early morning is easier. An other option (I've never tried myself) is to catch the insect and put it into the refrigerator for a few minutes. It will also slow down them. Try not to kill the bug of course.


9

The best way seems to be to set up and then wait for the insects to come to you. Look at this image and see if you can guess how it was shot: The answer is rather mundane, I was sitting at my computer late at night and the moth came in and landed on my monitor. I left the monitor on and grabbed a macro lens and flash. The flash overpowered the monitor ...


9

This is going to depend very much on what camera body you are using. Canon cameras do not focus past f/5.6 unless you are using a 1-series body (or are willing to do some warranty-voiding pin taping to force f/8 AF on unsupported bodies...which is usually a moot exercise anyway). Slapping a 2x TC onto a 70-200 f/4 is going to give you an f/8 aperture, and ...


8

The mm of a lens is the focal length. To take close-up shots of things far away, you need a "long" focal length, which means high mm. An entry or mid-level Canon camera has an "APS-C" sized sensor. The sensor size is really what determines what the meaning of the focal length is — focal length and sensor size together give you angle of view. (See my visual ...


8

I think your best bet would be the brand new Canon Powershot SX40 HS. It has an astounding 35x optical zoom or a 24mm-840mm eqiv range. This camera is brand new and was announced as shipping at the end of September 2011. As for the shooting speed - this camera has two options. You can shoot at a continuous 2.4fps until you fill the memory card. Or you have ...


8

This addresses only my opinion on one less-central aspect of the question: I agree that the more extreme forms of what you describe are unethical or immoral. As well as avoiding mistreatment of the target animal, I would personally never use live-bait for anything, but that's a personal choice and many would be happy to do so. But I don't see too much ...


8

The 70-200 F2.8L IS II works fine with a 2.0x teleconverter. That's my standard birding and critter lens these days. It's sharper than a 300F4+1.4x (my previous go to lens), and MUCH sharper than a canon 100-400 @ 400mm (my initial birding len). All are acceptable, the 70-200+2.0x is incredibly sharp and I'm really impressed with that lens combo. I use that ...


7

You do not specify why your current lens is "not sufficient", but the following are all excellent lenses for wildlife photography, depending on your exact requirements: Canon EF 200mm f2.8L II USM (~£600) Canon EF 300mm f4L IS USM (~£1000) Canon EF 400mm f5.6L USM (~£1000) The latter two are £100 over budget, but I don't think you would be disappointed ...


7

It is great that you know what you want to shoot and have a respectable budget. The issue with what you are asking is that you will not be able to satisfy all those requirements at any price. The most critical is that bird photography takes long lenses which are they also need to be bright when you want to shoot wildlife in low-light. Honestly, it's hard to ...


6

I would say no, but only because I have been around possums. If cornered or threatened, they can get downright vicious and they move very quickly. If you've ever seen one in this kind of state, you'd appreciate the damage they can do. Getting you and your camera inches in front of a mother with babies will probably result in (at least) your camera getting ...


6

One of the best things you can do to photograph any animal, whether it be a bird, insect, wolf, or for that matter, human, is to learn about your intended subject. I've gotten some great shots of bees by learning where they hang out around my house, and what time of year they hang around. I'll share a few pictures, and answer how I captured them. This ...


6

There is no one lens that can do everything you want because wildlife and landscape require almost the exact opposite lens properties. I have the 18-135 and I love it as a travel lens - but it's not a good wildlife lens. For wildlife you want a long focal length and fast accurate auto-focus, long lenses tend to be big and heavy so they aren't very ...


6

That's a complicated want list with things that are fundamentally in conflict. Here are what I think are the key thigns you're asking for: Canon Body landscapes and people (wide angle zoom) flowers and occasional macro-style shots birds and critters (big, powerful telephoto) Body $2000, lens $2000 (max, $1500 preferred). So, $3500 total. Lightweight. ...


5

I went on a tiger safari in India last year and I didn't find shooting on safari that different to shooting in the park on a technical basis. I took some amazing shots myself but my biggest regret (though not a big one) is that the photos I took of larger animals didn't give them any context. I took some full frame shots of tigers looking towards me and ...


5

Hummingbirds perch and rest: capture them then. (f/6.3, 1/125 sec., ISO 800) To evaluate the possibility of capturing the birds in flight without a flash, I invite viewers to decide for themselves whether the wings have been adequately frozen in this picture (f/5.6, 1/3200 sec, ISO 800). In response to a comment, @rfusca has suggested this answer be ...


5

There is no magic method that makes it work. There are a combination of factors: Patience. Most of the time you're not going to get a reasonable shot. Be prepared to spend a lot of time waiting. While you're doing that, watch a lot and see how your subject behaves. Once you learn what it does when, you have a better chance of approaching closer. Take ...


5

I'll take a stab at giving you some hints. Remember that nearly all photography stores will let you try out gear. This is key when selecting bodies and lenses. If you've researched and found 2-3 lenses you might be interested in coupled with a body or two, go to the store and check the combinations out. Maybe you will find that what seemed ok on the paper is ...


5

Except in low light at end/beginning of day it's not too demanding. Lens sounds good. Most whales are bigger than most birds (you'd hope) so 250mm is big enough as long as regulations and whale availability allow close approach. Whales move slower than birds so for most purposes the setup is not too critical and you can use smaller aperture to get good ...


5

Sometimes you get lucky, but in general, wildlife photography takes time. I expect your foxes are also active during part of the day, which would make things much easier. Spend the time to learn their habits, and if possible, for them to get used to you. Even so, you're still probably going to see foxes at a distance and for short periods at a time. This ...


4

Did you try searching? You only have three choices as you can see. One of them is stabilized (and weather-sealed but that does not count on your camera), the other two are not. Since you are shooting things that move, the stabilization impact will matter most when you shoot the animals at rest. The Nikkor AF-S 300mm F/2.8G ED-IF VR II and the Sigma 300mm ...



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