Before the rush

Before the rush
by evan-pak

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0

I had the same problem with my 70mm-200mm f2.8 Tamron VC, where it stopped auto focusing and had it repaired through warranty. Not sure why this happen, I rarely use the lens, it's never be abused and still looks new. The repair report stated that the pc board, VC reset and a general cleaning. Works as expected now but not sure if and when it will stop ...


0

Look at the camera instructions at the section that explains how to clean the sensor. As the first step, you don't need to clean it, but take a look. Strong pointed light source would be useful and if you have one of those rubber balls for lens and sensor cleaning, you can blow some air to the chamber to see if you can move it or even blow out. Nice picture ...


2

It’s out-of-focus images of lint resting atop the protective cover glass that protects the image sensor. All you need to do is use a camel’s hair brush, preferably one what has a bellows that blows air as it sweeps. Worst case, clean per you camera’s instruction manual. addendum: The shadows of stuff on the senor cover likely goes unnoticed unless the ...


4

It looks like you have some pretty bad dust on your sensor. I'm guessing that based on how deep your depth of field is, it's something that comes out with smaller f/stops.


5

It's an odd pattern, but faint shapes like that generally indicate something on the sensor. Dust is most common, but that usually looks like a somewhat blurred roundish spot. The branching threads here make me think this might be fungus, which is generally bad news. Prague isn't particularly humid, but perhaps you were in a damp situation at some point. I ...


0

Check your LCD brightness. LCD screens include a polarization filter and may cause issues like this if the display is not bright enough (or if you are using a secondary polarizer like sunglasses or a filter on a camera.)


-1

Blow some compressed air into the memory card slot, mostly it happens because of dust inside the memory slot. I hope it will work for you guys :) all the best!!


4

Two possibilities that I can think of. If you are shooting RAW, then you may need to download the Microsoft Camera Codec Pack for Windows 7 which will allow Windows to create thumbnail images as previews You may simply need to change a folder view setting: Open Windows Explorer Click on Organize >Folder and Search options On the "View" tab, uncheck the "...


3

Yes — it looks the same to me. Likely to be caused by a smear on the front of your lens (or on a protective covering of some type). In fact, it's so similar I've marked this as a duplicate of the previous questions, as there's no real point in explaining the details twice.


0

The camera flash cast hard sharp shadows because the flash is located close to the camera lens and the result is straight on lighting. Because of the close proximity, flash to lens, the shadows cast are a thin line. The shadows are underexposed and void of detail. The countermeasure is use a second “fill-flash” or a reflector. Such a lash-up is adjusted so ...


4

This happened because camera applied surplus of sharpening. Sharpening means for a computer to find a lightness transition and make the dark part of it darker and the lighter part lighter. If one applies disastrous amount of sharpening (as camera clearly did) artifacts are inevitable - the ligher part will become clipped white and the darker part will become ...


0

I would recommend getting Adobe Lightroom or a similar program, Your dSLR came with a similar application, ViewNX2 for Nikon cameras. Lr is a great program with many catalog features in addition to the Develop module. Lr will also allow you to shoot tethered. BTW: You should ONLY be shooting RAW or "RAW + jpg".


-3

I take it you're not familiar with computers in the least. So let's back up a bit. Each image is one file; presumably what you're looking at is a list of files in a "folder" that you copied to your computer's drive. First thing: that's a default symbol for the app that your OS expects to be able to use to open each file. Right-click and select "Open With....


3

You have probably enabled mirror lockup. The purpose of mirror lockup is to allow the slight vibrations caused by the movement of the mirror to dissipate before the shutter is opened. This is mostly an issue at shutter times between about 1/100 second and 1 second. Shorter exposures are over before the vibrations reach the parts of the camera that could ...


1

Simply having the 430EXII in Manual mode isn't sufficient. It must also be out of slave mode. The slave modes for the 430EXII are for Canon's wireless eTTL optical-based system. Your Cybersync triggers are replacing that system, and using the PC sync port to trigger the flash. If the 430EXII is in Slave mode, it's only listening to the optical sensor under ...


0

The flash should be set in Manual mode, not Slave mode. When used in Slave mode there must be a Master flash optically controlling the 430EX II through the optical receiver on the flash. In Slave mode the signals through the pins on the flash shoe are ignored. If there are channel and slave symbols visible in the lower right corner of the 430EX II's LED ...



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