Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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Hope this helps.. I used to get a Cyan cast which is a similar kind of situation as you have here ( I think ). It turned out the measurement of ambient light during calibration was contaminated by the fact that the walls behind me were painted red. this would explain why calibrator added a little cyan to compensate for the red. You might want to do ...


1

If you think the motor is only working in one direction, you might try to test the theory by focusing in live mode. If it's like mine, it will usually go back and forth to home in on the sharpest focus (using contrast rather than phase detection), so if the motor is only working in one direction it will probably not be able to focus in live mode. Of ...


1

The current standard kit lens with the SL1 appears to be the STM version which means, among other things, that the camera has to be powered on and ready to shoot (not sleeping) for manual focus to respond. Essentially it's a "focus-by-wire" system, where there isn't a direct physical connection between the focus ring and the actual lens elements, instead ...


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My lens has the same issue, when i opened it i found that 2 of the ribbon cables were broken... they extend and contract as the internals of the lens moves. I ordered replacements on ebay cheap, and set to change them, this proves very very difficult, as you must get the very center of the lens and there are about a billion tiny screws, and re-assembly ...


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In my case, yes. Very typical. My EF 24-105 f/4L IS USM developed zoom creep after about four or five years. It's probably one of my most-used lenses. I did attempt peeling back the rubber on the zoom ring and using the screws to adjust the tension, but the creep returned pretty quickly. While a big flat rubber band, like the lensband, can be used to add ...


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A company called Lensband has a solution for zoom creep, a silicone band that fits the barrel of the zoom lens.


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The answer to the question should be no for G-series Nikon lenses. The focus ring mechanism is designed to disengage from the lens when it reaches the limit on either end, allowing the ring to continue spinning freely. You usually feel a bit of resistance at those points. Looking at the question though, it looks like it is not a problem with the lens but ...


1

Are you sure you set focus back to auto on both the body and the lens? I've made this exact mistake and thought I broke something and it was just me forgetting to turn auto back on. Good luck.


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Try cleaning the contacts on the lens mount and checking them for damage, it could be that the camera can't communicate with the lens. I have a Tamron 18-270 PZD which stops autofocusing occasionally, I have to wiggle the focus ring for it to start moving.


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If it's doing it with the 35mm lens and not with the 70-300mm, then it's most likely a problem with the 35mm. Try cleaning the contacts on the camera and the lens, and check that they haven't been damaged or overly scratched. The contacts are only attached to the lens mount by a small chip, so it could be that something on the lens mount or in the lens ...


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If you've got the skills to strip a compact down then go for it and see what you find on the sensor. It looks like you've a dust spot on the sensor (about a fifth of the way down, just right of centre), but as for the pink blob my guess would be possible grease/oil contamination on the sensor from the lens assembly. It's a guess but it's where I would start ...


2

Your camera's menu cannot recognize the flash, but it will still work. If you put the YN-560III on the flash hotshoe and push the shutter button, the flash will still fire in sync with your camera shutter. But you have to set/adjust the output power manually on the back of the flash. If it's not firing, check the batteries, and that the flash is seated ...


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Somewhere in your graphic card or monitor settings you have your RGB range set to 16-235 instead of correctly to 0-255.



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