Moonlight

by Jakub

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23

Likely culprits, in order of probability: Bad SD card (by far the most likely, especially with cheap cards). Bad cable or card reader (more common than you might think). Something wrong on your computer (many things can go wrong!). A bad connection inside the camera. Something horribly wrong with the camera's electronics. The "bad card" scenario is, ...


22

Short answer: Current autofocus systems only work when the AF area contains high contrast. The places where it doesn't work don't contain enough, and the areas which do work, do. Here's what's going on in more detail: There are two different types of autofocus systems in modern cameras. One is the contrast-detection AF, which is used in most point and ...


22

Looking at your samples, the answer seems clear to me: that's not grainy, that is, actually, out of focus. Here's a 1:1 crop of your wide-open image: It seems pretty apparent that the wooden sign is sharp but the dog isn't, and the appearance of the blur looks completely in line with what one would expect from out-of-focus blur, not noise or grain. ...


18

Some dust spots on the sensor will absolutely not shift with air-pressure (blowing) alone. To shift them you need to wet clean the sensor. I was nervous the first time I did this as I can understand most people would be. But it is not that difficult or risky, basically it involves wiping the sensor assembly with a soft rubber "wand" with a cleaning fluid ...


18

This is normal because in the day time, the sky is usually the brightest part of the scene. If you lower the exposure by applying negative exposure compensation, your sky will get darker and more blue. This will cause other elements in the image to darken and some may end under-exposed. This is because a change in exposure is global. What you need is to ...


16

I'm willing to bet that that's dust on your sensor, not on the lens. If you stop down to f/22, that can help to confirm that assertion, one way or the other. My sensor dust would really show up at the smaller apertures. If they are indeed on the sensor (and they really look like the dust spots I got on my d70 and d200), you can try some of the Visible ...


16

Re. your answer - you don't have to have the focus set to Manual just because you're in Manual mode, but autofocus systems generally don't work in the dark. Therefore the camera will fail to focus and refuse to take a picture. By switching to manual you remove that problem. Switching to Auto mode may allow autofocus because it turns the AF illuminator on. ...


15

The "Job nr" is not an error message, it's a status message. You have enabled the in-camera long-exposure noise reduction - the "nr" part of the message. With noise reduction enabled, after you create a long exposure, the camera takes about the same amount of time to process the image, apply noise reduction, and write image to the card. If you're creating ...


15

The only sound that would come from the sensor itself would be a self-cleaning function, which only happens when you run the self cleaning, or turn the camera on/off. The sensor vibrates to shake off dust. This would not be happening when you are shooting. When you half press, the sounds you might hear would be from the lens AF motor or image ...


14

I would say at least for most practical purposes the answer is no. First of all, you only get intense heat where the light comes (at least close to) in focus, which does not happen inside the lens. Second, you only get heat when the light is absorbed -- but a typical lens transmits virtually all the light, which translates to absorbing essentially none of ...


14

You're hearing the IS start to activate.


14

Troubleshooting a lens: Lens Toggle: Make sure the toggle on the lens is firmly in the AF position. Contacts: Check the metal contacts on the lens to make sure they are clear of debris and are clean. Ring: Make sure the focus ring isn't obstructed. It should move freely when on MF and become more firm when on AF (for your lens, not all lenses do this). ...


13

Not only do you need new batteries, but what you want is low self-discharge NiMHs. Like the name says, they have a better not-in-use retention of charge, reducing frustrations like this. They generally have lower capacity than "regular" NiMHs, but unless you're planning to recharge and then use them up immediately, it's worth it. The common brand name here ...


13

Unless your unit is defective, by default most DSLRs will not release the shutter if: Focus has not been acquired. The flash is charging The buffer is full 1 and 2 can be over-ridden using the custom settings. If you go to MF or AF-C (which defaults to Release-Priority) you should not experience this due to #1. If the flash is down (and no flash is ...


13

You're exactly right — it's the same thing as a monitor pixel error, but on your camera's sensor rather than on an LCD screen. * You can either fix it in post-processing (automatically, with many RAW-processing packages) or have it mapped out with the camera's firmware. If you're lucky, your camera model includes a built-in feature to do that yourself in ...


13

You certainly knocked the diopter adjustement out of place. It is there to compensate for people who need eye-glasses. With your eye looking through the viewfinder, adjust the knob on the upper right side until you see what is in focus clearly sharp.


12

There is definitely something very wrong here. That's not a focus or DOF issue, but looks like the lens suffers from extremely strong field curvature. It's normal for a lens to be sharper in the center than around the edges, and this effect gets stronger with wide open aperture and at the extreme ends of the zoom range (your last sentence indicates that you ...


11

The phase detection autofocus on your D7000 works by calculating the offset between an observed brightness pattern seen by a pair of miniature sensors, consisting of single rows of pixels, that make up each AF point. In order to be able to find a reliable match and thus measure the offset there needs to be a strong variation in the brightness observed over ...


11

Looks like a shutter malfunction (which fits with it only appearing at certain shutter speeds). The shutter is made of a series of metal blades, it looks like one of these blades is misaligned, which is exposing that part of the sensor for longer than it should be, hence the bright area. You can have the shutter replaced at a Canon service centre.


11

If you have the RAW file from the shot, absolutely. Just pop it open in what ever RAW processor you use. Active D-Lighting basically applies a slight HDR-like effect. The effect should only be applied to the jpeg.


11

It's very possible that the shutter is sticking. I had this problem a lot of years ago with a Yashica 35mm film camera and lost a lot of shots to the shutter misbehaving, an expensive proposition with film. Anyways, the trigger seemed to have been a trip to a hot and fairly dusty location in Aruba, maybe the result of some sand or something getting caught in ...


11

When you shoot monochrome as RAW files, the monochrome setting is just meta-data in the RAW file. The raw data from the sensor is still the same. You will only see the monochrome effect when you view the file in a program that supports the monochrome flag. Obviously what you are using to preview the images doesn't support it. The program from Nikon for ...


10

There really isn't all that much you can do with lenses yourself without making things worse. It sounds like something mechanically is wrong, and the only way to fix that is going to be to open up the lens. I would take it to a Nikon authorized repair shop. If you are in the US, this form will take you to the list of authorized repair shops.


10

Another possibility is if you were using a filter, such as a UV filter, to take this shot, this can sometimes cause effects such as this when light sources are involved.


10

Unfortunately, this looks very much like whoever changed your headset port has also managed to damage the camera module in some way so that it is massively overexposing. This is very unlikely to be fixable by an amateur - I'd suggest taking it back to the store that changed the headset port and getting them to either fix it or give you a replacement phone, ...


9

That looks like a typical dust spot. How blurry the spot is depends on the distance between the filter in front of the sensor and the actual sensor (which is constant for each camera model), and the aperture used. For a smaller aperture (higher f-number) the spot gets sharper. The sensor cleaning function may remove some dust, but I read a test a while ...


9

Well, other than a strong rubber band, the other alternative I can think of is Gaffer tape which, unlike duct tape, doesn't leave a residue. However, I think a rubber band will work if the band is good quality and thick and so I would go the rubber band route first, to find out, and failing that go with gaffer tape.


9

One other thing - don't mix your batteries with different specs. In your case, mixing 2500mAh batteries with 800mAh batteries will be causing you problems.


9

Because of the pixel density I would say. Your 50D had the highest pixel density in Canon's lineup when it was released, at 4.5MP/cm2. At that density the lens becomes the limiting factor, you need good glass. A few reviews pointed out that the image quality of the 50D wasn't much better than the 40D it was replacing actually, with a density of 3.1 MP/cm2. ...



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