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by Jakub

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6

I only have a fairly small aluminum tripod (53 cm / 21" folded, sans head), which fits inside my suitcase and is more than sturdy enough to take any abuse the luggage handlers might dish out, so I've never had any trouble with it. I assume yours is both bigger and more expensive, though, which could make things more problematic. That said, I've had similar ...


4

The options I'm thinking of must have some characteristics. Portable. Easy assembly. Must be atached to the speedlight (does not matter if the speedlight is on the camera or not) Can be holded by the photographer with one hand. (off-camera light) Decent size, so it provides a decent difussion. Wall/Ceiling independent. :o) I have not tested this but ...


4

We have a couple of existing questions that might help, here. First, take a look at When and how to use a push-on flash diffuser? regarding the plastic. The key is that these aren't really meant to be diffusers themselves, since they are so small. Instead, they provide a bare-bulb effect, and if you are in a room with a low white ceiling and walls, the ...


4

Yes. Stop shopping; start shooting. The lenses you have are what most folks would already choose for landscapes, cityscapes, and street shooting. If you don't know what lens you should "upgrade" to, then chances are good, you're not ready to upgrade. You need more experience with the gear you do have. And it's when a specific frustration starts to eat ...


4

Comparing super zoom lenses is really not very much different then comparing any other lens. For super zoom lenses you need to understand that in general they are all based on compromises. The big three that you will have to choose between are optical quality, size, and price. Typically you get to choose either 1 or 2 of the 3, but not all three. Size, ...


3

Compose early. You tend to get better light and less people early in the morning. I also keep a tripod and wireless remote with me. When there are a lot of people I will throw my camera on my full extended tripod, bring all of the legs together and then hold the camera a lot higher in the air by holding the lower part of the legs. Sometimes the extra 6' I ...


2

Ideally, the answer is have the film get hand inspected each time. Always. X-rays are just like any other type of light for film - it exposes the film (and it gets through the film canister). You will occasionally see statements like "security check point that said film under ISO 800 would be unharmed going through the checked luggage x-ray machine" which ...


2

You may consider Canon's new EF-S 10-18mm, released just a few months ago. It's really lightweight, has image stabilization (probably only one with IS from your choice. Optics are really surprisingly good, has less chromatic aberration than 10-22mm. Build quality is not near L lens (or 10-22mm), but is really ok and seems durable. For it's price (300$) is ...


2

Choosing the "next lens" you need should be based upon a particular need that your current lenses are not capable of meeting. So in order to answer the question you must first ask yourself, "What kind of shots do I want to take that I am not able to take now?" Only then can you answer the question, "What lens will allow me to take those shots?"


1

I don't have any magic formula to remove distracting elements, but what distracts me most in the first picture you show is not that there are people and cars, but the fact that people and cars are crossing the border of the picture. If you can't remove these element from your picture, try to actually incorporate them in your composition. OK, you can't make ...


1

Weather resistant, which is what Canon and other manufacturers claim about their gear, can be a far cry from dust sealed. If you read Roger Cicala's blog you learn very quickly how little he regards the weather sealing claims of the camera makers. Here's the one about the fly inside a "weather sealed" lens. Also note his 1/25/2013 at 6:17 a.m. comment to ...


1

That fstoppers Flash disc Rafael posted looks pretty neat. Another alternative might be a flash bender. If you don't mind carrying a bit more kit for a bigger light, you could go with a monopod + umbrella holder + umbrella softbox. Quite a bit smaller and lighter when packed up than a proper light stand and softbox. Though still a lot larger and heavier ...


1

If you're actually going to go to the trouble of bringing off-camera lighting gear/triggers with you, then maybe a small softbox could be useful in some situations, but you do need to understand its limitations and limited usefulness, and I'd say don't go any smaller than 8". I use a cheap knockoff of the Lastolite Ezybox Speed-Lite (22cm). But what might ...


1

I have that camera. My top lens choice for that camera is the pancake 20mm. It's the only lens that I always take with me and spends most time on the camera. It's such a fast lens, so sharp, and I've not felt limited by the focal length very much. One example of a situation where this focal length is limiting is when visiting a zoo, you can't get in ...


1

Get multiple cards, so that you don't have to delete them. If you want a backup, in addition to multiple cards get a device like Nexto or HyperDrive with SSD drive inside. SSDs are worth the price here, they take less power and are shock resistant. They are lighter, too. Btw. it may be quite a bit cheaper if you get diskless device and buy the SSD on your ...


1

See also: What should I look for when shopping for my first DSLR? Here are the questions I think you need to ask yourself before buying any new camera. What's my budget? The amount of money you can spend on camera gear will probably be the biggest limitation on getting any specific camera. It will sway your decision on whether or not you would prefer ...


1

I marked this to be closed as its primarily opinion based. Personally, I would much prefer to have a 10-24 and 70-300 over the 18-200. For me, for such an awesome trip, 18 wouldn't be wide enough to make me happy and 200 wouldn't be long enough. (300 wouldn't be long enough, either, but thinking about staying light...) It's a personal choice. Your ...


1

Rather than supply links, which may or may not stay around for some time, I would suggest considering that many photographers use studio lighting in remote settings without a readily available electrical outlets. While some are really big budget and may bring generators, many just use battery packs for their lights. So, some lighting makers, such as Paul C. ...


1

My first thought for about $1000 is to get the 24-105L and leave the kit lens at home. Once you shift from that kit lens to a higher quality lens you'll wonder why you waited. If you really want to keep the kit lens in your kit, then the Sigma 10-20 is a good idea. I haven't used the Canon 10-22 but have heard good things about it. Don't forget that if ...


1

When picking a lens, you need to consider what it is you want to shoot with that lens. For street/travel, most folks would probably opt for an ultrawide zoom (if they're interested in cityscapes/landscapes or shooting in smaller spaces), a superzoom (for versatility), and/or a few wide-to-normal fast primes (street, night, and across-the-table shooting). ...


1

I recall that the x-ray machines for carry-ons were marked "Film Safe". This page seems to confirm that, though the person still recommends hand checking.



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