Hot answers tagged tokina
Aperture: Use the maximum aperture (F1.8 if possible) Shutter Speed: Use the 600/(focal length * crop Factor)rule so as to not see star trails (Refer here in section 3. Camera settings). ISO: Highest possible for your camera that you find acceptable. Milky Way? You can use the application: Stellarium to find out if you are in the right time / place to view ...
No one seems to supply those and would be prohibitively expensive to create general ones because you would need a lot of copies of the lens to account for variations and quality control issues. However, you can create one that will work for your own lens and camera combination using the Adobe Lens Profile Creator.
I downloaded a profile for that lens using the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader. As far as I know, these are community-submitted profiles, so there may be quality issues. The profile I got is fine, though.
Yes, shooting at f/2.8 will generally produce not-as-sharp images, both because of shallow depth of field and because it's hard to produce sharp images with a wide aperture — most lenses reach peak sharpness stopped down a bit. High ISO in the darkness will tend towards increased noise (and perhaps you have noise reduction enabled, which will reduce ...
Canon FL/FD mount lenses are not good choices for adapting to Canon EF-mount bodies (e.g. 30D, and any other EOS camera). There are FD-EF adapters on eBay, but to be able to focus to infinity, you would need adapter with corrective optics because of negative difference in focal flange depth between these two mounts. Unfortunately, corrective optics degrade ...
Lenstip has quite a complete review of the lens, they compare the canon to the nikon mount, even with some history: they mention how it was postponed after tokina realized how good the tamron was. Tokina lenses can be hard to find, resellers only have the most recent ones available. Maybe you can find one in the second-hand market, that's how I found my ...
Those two lenses are not in the same category. The 11-16 is an ultra wide - this will let you take pictures you can't today - you should get this if you want to take really wide angle pictures (that is not slightly wider than your 18-55 at its widest) and unless this will become your favorite photography style this lens will not be your primary lens. The ...
I use this lens a lot, but I have not taken any pictures by candlelight. I have done long exposure photography in the vicinity of streetlights with no flare issues. I do know that you have to be very careful about flare in sunlight.
You don't really need to cover all possible focal lengths... And as for myself I find the standard lengths (around 35mm in APSC) quite boring, I'd go just for a wide angle and a telephoto lens: Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 and Tokina 50-135mm f2.8 About the wide angle, have you considered the Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6? For landscapes you don't really need constant f2.8 ...
The built-in motor is a huge difference. Even if it isn't relevant for your camera, its presence or absense will be very significant should you ever choose to sell it. And between now and then it may also matter if you want to loan out the lens to a friend to try. I've seen some different results for lens sharpness and behaviour, but I wouldn't consider ...
If you don't want to have to switch lenses alot, I'd probably stay away from the 11-16. The second and third options both seem pretty good for ranges though. It really comes down to how much telephoto you expect to need. The 135 will give you nice reach, but you won't have the f/2.8 across your standard zoom, which is a very nice thing to have for ...
Even though the 2.8 is as wide as it gets for UWA lenses, the depth of field at 11mm is still huge at most distances. If you're a meter away from your subject, your DOF is one meter deep, at two meters it's 16m and at 2.27m you've hit infinity. I'm pretty sure shallow depth of field is not your problem. Get a DoF calculator app, they're very handy
When you say it doesn't fit, it does mount, doesn't it? Your N2020 will have the same mount as the D40. Does it rotate and click when you try to mount it? Assuming it does, there are two things to try: clean the contacts on both the lens and the camera (with a dry cloth, or if they're really dirty with a pencil eraser, taking care to not get bits inside ...
Look through your recent photos. Which scenes could have been captured better if they had been shot with one of the candidates? Also, think of photos that you could have taken, but didn't even try due to limitations of your gear. Ditto with ideas that you could turn into photos in future. Which lens would help you with those? Pick the lens that will bring ...
Tokina AT-X 124 AF PRO DX AF 12-24mm f/4 II has no screwdriver connection, has fast traditional motor and impossible to autofocus in LV mode in my Nikon D5100. Picture is scharp and attractive.
From looking on DXOMark it appears the new one has its own focussing motor and it's a bit lighter as well as it has a new coating.
If you are desperate, you can try using something developed by lightroom users. Boyan Silyavski has shared one, has great reviews from other users and also its widely used. You can get it HERE. PS: This is for Canon mount 11-16mm, you might need to tweak it a little before using it.
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