I Dare You!

by peter_budo

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Change your Perspective For beginners, it's much more about technique than equipment. Try taking the photo from a non-standard angle. That is to say, don't just stand there and take the picture from eye level. That's the point of view that everyone has anyway. It's not that interesting. Crouch down, stand on something, tilt the camera. Anything to take ...


If something is worth photographing, it's worth photographing twice. (at least) For each picture you take, look at it afterwards, and take a distinctly different picture - whether different angle, different framing, different focus, just deliberately try something else. Repeat as many times as you like. Basically, the key is to experiment, and see how ...


The approach you take will probably depend on whether you wish to photograph star trails, do short-exposure astrophotography, or long-exposure astrophotography. Star trails are relatively easy to capture, however short and long exposure astrophotography must be done with a little more care. These tips assume you are using a DSLR. Required Gear To take ...


Stay active, take more pictures. Once you've taken them, review them and think about what you like/don't like about them. Also, give yourself a project to work on. It doesn't necessarily have to be anything big, but having a goal will help motivate you to keep improving.



Rule of thirds - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_thirds. Compose your photos so that the main subject is on one of the intersection points. Don't center your subjects (until you figure out when to break the rule).


Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst. – Henri Cartier-Bresson


Relax! And don't read the internet too much. You'll read a million reasons your equipment is inadequate and how in order to do X you have to buy Y, which you can't afford, and how the camera you have has minor terrible flaws A, B, and C. All cameras have flaws. You can take great photos with the camera you have, no matter what it is.


I've never attempted to photograph the Aurora Borealis myself however the following advice applies to most celestial photography: You will want the fastest (biggest aperture) lens you can get your hands on. The 50 f/1.4 is ideal, though the focal length is quite long for this sort of thing. It's good because it will let in about 5-6 times as much light as ...


Canon E-TTL Speedlites are fully automatic even if your camera is in the manual mode! You can choose whatever aperture you want, a reasonable ISO (e.g. 100), a reasonable shutter speed (e.g. 1/100s), and just take a picture. E-TTL magic chooses the right flash power, and the shot is correctly exposed. You can half-press the button in the M mode, and the ...


LIGHT - Learn how it impact the photos you shot. No matter what camera and what your skill lever is the light is the most important factor. I you do landscapes for example, get up early in the morning when the sun is very low and I guarantee you photos will look much better than if you were to take them in the middle of the day. The light before the sunset ...


The flash can be used in bright light. I used to be one of those who believed everything written in camera manuals was absolute. So, it took me years to figure out that flash is more useful (at least it results in more natural-looking images) outdoors in bright light and indoors.


Err on the side of zooming in less - I can't count the number of times I've been sorting out an album, and wished I had a bit more image surrounding the subject. You can always crop afterwards, and it's quite rare that every single pixel will be needed in the final pic. Never be afraid to ramp up the ISO rather than lose a moment to unwanted blur. Do ...


Switch one automatic setting on your camera to manual per month (or week, or whatever interval you choose). This makes it easier to figure out how that one setting impacts your photos.


The most important tool to improve the picture composition are your legs! Legs will remove obstructing elements from the photo. They will add a foreground interest. They will provide a framing to focus the viewers attention on the main object. Don't be afraid to move close to the object. Don't be afraid to take a very low or high viewpoint. A small change ...


Spot metering and manual mode. For long I used mainly matrix metering together with exposure compensation, but started feeling it sometimes causes more problems than it solves. Say you're outside where the sky is usually the brightest area, and you know you want the sky be part of the picture and not become over exposed. Switch to spot metering and manual ...


Here are a few of the things I've learned over the year or so I've been doing photography: Take pictures, always, constantly, of the same thing, of different things Lighting is a photographers BEST friend...use it, learn its moods Composition is key, compose in your mind and eye before you compose in the lens Use common guidelines, like: Rule of Thirds ...


Take a picture first! Then take a breath, compose the picture properly, check the camera settings and start shooting "for real". Too many times a picture is not taken because the golden moment is lost while the photographer is preparing to take a photo.


Look at the work of other photographers. You will remember the images you like.


Be Ready! First thing first, when you can, always keep your eye trained on the subject through the lens. Birds are quick, alert, and attentive, and when they do something interesting thats worth capturing, you rarely have time to bring the camera to your eye, frame, focus, and get a shot. So its critical that you are watching the bird through the lens as ...


You are right, a wedding is hard to do. But it is not impossible and we all have to start somewhere. One of the biggest challenges is going to be staying ahead of the program and getting in the right spot at the right time. Much of wedding photography is being prepared for the "next shot", getting yourself positioned and close enough to the action, and ...


Rear curtain sync.. it makes all those dance/action pics so much more awesome.


Learn how to perform post-processing on your photos. You don't need Photoshop or anything expensive like that; great things have been done even in free tools like GIMP and Paint.net. Just basic editing like cropping, brightness\contrast adjustment, and color adjustment will greatly improve a lot of photos.


TURN OFF YOUR FLASH. And then set your ISO to the lowest setting you can without the photo being blurry (but don't be afraid of using a high-ISO - I'd rather have a 'noisy' shot without flash than a blown-out one with flash) Nothing ruins a shot more than a poorly used/placed flash (which is 99% of the time)


There are 2 sides to this, the technical and the artistic. Technical Try to gently squeeze the button to take the picture, don't poke it. The less the camera moves the better the focus will be. Most (if not all) digital cameras will auto-focus when you press halfway, some also do red-eye reduction at this point, so it is usually better to half-press the ...


I did a wedding earlier this year, and having never done one before had the same fears as you. For me, the following points were very important: Talk to the bride & groom in advance. Discuss what they want from you out of the day. They are the MOST IMPORTANT thing for you to consider. They may ask for formal shots at the church, or informal shots at ...


tripod. Use your lowest ISO (50 or 100). I always use a cable release to avoid vibration in the camera. You'll get circular trails if you point the camera at Polaris (the north star; assuming northern hemisphere here); pointing it at something interesting and just letting the trails happen is fine. exposure length is something to experiment with, start at ...


White and grey are the same color for the camera, grey is just darker. This silly fact made me look too hard for a custom white-balance target since the manual of my first digital camera (circa 2002) said to aim the camera at a white-surface.


On my Canon Rebel, when shooting in Av or Tv mode and using a flash, the camera meters for the ambient light rather than for the flash. It drove me crazy that I would be in Av, set my aperture, turn on the flash, and still had a shutter speed of 1/15! I expected it to work the same way as P mode, and I couldn't figure out why it didn't until I learned that ...

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