Alley in Pisa, Italy

by Lars Kotthoff

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16

Sunrise light is cooler (color temperature-wise) because there are less particles in the air, which is what gives sunsets their multicoloured nature.


15

The golden hour occurs around sunset and sunrise. Its duration is not exactly an hour and depends on location and date. Typically, it lasts between 30 mins (usually in the winter when days are shorter) and 2 hours (usually in the summer when days are longer). However, close to poles it may not happen, or it may last much longer when it is close to a ...


13

From Beginner's guide to HD video on dpreview.com Clip limits One of the main disadvantages with using a stills camera to shoot movies is the short recording times available for HD video; Nikons limit a single take to 5 minutes while Canons and European Panasonics stop after 29 minutes, 59 seconds. This limitation is due to the different ...


13

The golden hour is the period of time (roughly an hour) immediately either side of sunrise/sunset. At this time the sun is very low in the sky. As a result the light passes through much more of the atmosphere. The result of this is that: the high frequencies (blues) are filtered out giving a very warm light the light is diffused by particles in the air, ...


12

I just found the answer. Lightroom will change the date/time easily by selecting the image you know the proper time for, then select all others to be changed - similar to how develop sync settings works. After the selection is made, click Metadata -> Edit Capture Time Select Change to a specified date and time Enter the proper date and time for that ...


12

If "to get good shadows" he means shadows cast by surface features on the moon, thats entirely a matter of opinion. The moon has dozens of faces, from thin crescents, normal crescents, half moons, gibbous moons, full moons for both waxing and waning, as well as eclipsed moons. I've shot the moon a lot myself, and I can't say there is any "right time". Its ...


9

As far as I know it is a legal thing to prevent extra import duties in the EU. Until Canon or anyone officially state that, it will remain speculation. It's not a heat issue, as a) if the sensor had heat problems they would likely occur before 30 minutes, and b) after one 30 minute capture the camera will allow you to immediately begin another 30 minute ...


9

ExifTool can do that for you. Example from the linked page: exiftool -AllDates-=1 DIR This would set all date fields in image in the directory DIR back one hour. ExifTool is very powerful when it comes to manipulating meta data in images. I would recommend to practice on copies of the files to get the command to do what you want, before unleashing it on ...


9

You can do setting, incrementing, decrementing Exif-Date (and File-Dates) with following tools: XnView (W32): [mark pictures to be adjusted], Tools -> Change Timestamp exfitool (Multi): exiftool "-AllDates+=1:12:28 14:54:32" -overwrite_original_in_place -verbose ./ (+1 year, 12 month, 28 days, 14 hours, 54 minutes, 32 seconds) either list them, if-them ...


8

Sunrise can be a better time to shoot for few reasons too: There are considerably less people about if you are shooting scenery, landscape and/or nature shots. There is often moisture about which can potentially be used to create some unique images .. check out http://www.thetrueshot.com/Photographs/Pages/Drops_Of_Life.html#0 which was shot early in the ...


8

If you are comfortable with command line tools from ImageMagick, you can do something like this: convert orig_image.jpg -gravity NorthWest -annotate 0 "%[EXIF:DateTimeOriginal]" new_image.jpg You can run this to batch process all your images. Details ImageMagick has an array of command line tools to do different things with image. I'm using the convert ...


7

Using Picasa (3.8) it's very easy to either shift or set the date of a batch of photos. And it's cross-platform (Windows, OSX and Linux) and free. And no terminal fiddling... Open Picasa Select your photos Click Tools > Adjust Date and Time Fill in as required (see screenshot)


7

Absolutely. In some cases, people do this for the effect that is achieved. Flickr, for example, has a group dedicated to images from expired film. Some of the outcome is really quite nice, but it is obviously going to be hit or miss since the nature of degradation is unpredictable. Also, film expiration is not absolute. It largely depends on storage ...


7

I like to have date and times on photos reflect local times and date at the location. Unlike another respondent, I like to be able to search for a photo taken "at about 3pm on the Thursday afternoon when I was in Xian" and, while there are other ways of cataloguing and ordering, being able to search on local date and time is a bonus. Travel from NZ involves ...


6

That film can certainly still make images, but some things could be a little off. It was stored at rather high temperature, so expect some degradation. If it's color film (you didn't say), then the color ballance is probably the biggest change you'll notice. The next effect is loss of ISO film speed. The main reason for color ballance problems is that ...


6

As I just found out, this is a bug in Lightroom, more than a year old, but still not fixed. Please see this thread on the support forums where an employee of Adobe confirmed the bug to be linked to the USB connection with the camera. They also recommend to use a card reader instead of the USB connection.


5

The sun is in a different place! I know, that sounds obvious, but, as someone living in a coastal city, I though it ought to be mentioned. In the east, if you want the sun over the ocean, that's a sunrise. If you want a sunset over the water, you need to find a west coast. (Any continent will do.) Of course, this extends to non-oceanic photos as well. The ...


5

Sunrise is near the coolest part of the day. As a result, it typically has less wind, and thus less dust. Also, it tends to have somewhat less moisture in the ground than would otherwise be there. All of this causes a few unique affects There will be somewhat reduced haze, making images appear sharper. The lesser amounts of dust will make the sunrise ...


5

Black and white The part of the film most exposed to the environment is on the outside of the spiraled roll tucked into the reel. It's therefore a reasonable test to withdraw a small amount in a changing reel, clip it off, load it into a tank, and develop and briefly fix it. If the film comes out clear, or perhaps with some periodic marks along the edges ...


4

Unless you seriously abused this film, there's no problem. I have taken film of all types--B&W, color slides, color prints--on repeated long trips, including extended ones outdoors in the desert, developed it late--sometimes years late--and noticed no degradation at all. The only exception was a roll I found last year (Ektacolor or something like that) ...


4

As long as the camera has been protected from the elements, and stored in moderate conditions (ie, no extreme hot/cold/humidity), I think you should be fine. Six months isn't that long, and the guidelines take into account that people might not be taking care of the camera. You might see some degradation in the colors, but probably not much. It's worth a ...


4

I've used EXIF Date Changer in the past, and it's worked pretty well. It's got a GUI so you don't have to fiddle about with reading man pages and learning command line arguments. Only (very minor) downside is it can't modify images in place, it needs to make a copy when modifying, so it doesn't affect the originals. The hardest part really is trying to ...


4

A trick I use to sync different cameras used on a trip is to take a simultaneous photo - then you know exactly what the offset is and you don't have to guess. This is particularly helpful when some cameras are owned by others and they have no clue how to set the time. I've taken to setting all my cameras to UTC so there's never any question of what the ...


4

My cameras (Nikon D300s and Canon S95) have the capacity to use time zones. For instance at the moment I'm in Brazil, and rather than change the time I've left them on GMT (or UTC if you're being modern about it) and changed the time zone to -3. In the last 4 months I've been through three time zones. Part of my work involves photography and having the right ...


4

Page 68 of the K-5 Operating Manual states the following: ... 9. Press the four-way controller (▼) to select [Settings complete]. 10. Press the OK button. ... When you press the OK button in Step 10, the seconds value is set to 0. To set the exact time, press the OK button when the time signal (on the TV, radio, etc.) reaches 0 ...


4

Photographing the moon is a lot like shooting a portrait. When the moon is full the light hitting the moon is coming from your direction, this is flat light, you can get a lot of details but you can't see and texture in the moon because there are no shadows (think about it as the on-camera flash of lunar photography). When the moon is a thin crescent the ...


4

RAW files contain more data than JPEGs so saving/moving the files takes more time. The RAW and JPEG files should be the same resolution, but per pixel there is more data. Connecting to a PC isn't going to make it take less time; it may actually take longer because the speed of writing to the SD or CF card is probably faster than the USB connection to the ...


3

The real reason in the canon case is the license for the codecs. If you go past the 29:59 then you are required to have a license per unit. http://www.mpegla.com/main/default.aspx http://www.businesswire.com/portal/site/home/permalink/?ndmViewId=news_view&newsId=20090705005026&newsLang=en Wav files are limited due to the 32bit code and thus ...


3

The simple command-line program jhead is great for this. It's completely free (and open source) and is easily available for Windows, Mac, or Linux. If you're not used to command-line programs, this is a pretty non-intimidating one because there's not a lot to it. You have to format the dates correctly, but it's easy to do by following the examples (see the ...


3

You could also try the excellent and seemingly little known Microsoft Pro Photo Tools. Free and allows you to mess around with all sorts of meta data. I mainly use it for copying GPS data: I take a photo on my iPhone (which geotags it), when I take pictures with my 50D, and then copy the iPhone GPS data to the 50D pics later. Works with RAW too.



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