New answers tagged terminology
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Infinity focus is used for when shooting something that is hard to focus on. An example would be fireworks or a lightning storm (way off in the distance). Once you use this setting the things way off in the distance will now be in focus. You asked how to get everything from front to back in focus for landscape shots. I suggest shooting in aperture priority ...
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To understand infinity focus, you must first understand both what depth of field (DoF) is as well as what it isn't.
Regardless of the aperture of a lens, there will only be one distance that will be in focus. That is, there will only be one distance at which a point source of light will be focused to a single point on the recording medium. Point sources of ...
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Infinity focus places the plane of focus sufficiently far that light from than plane reaching the lens hit the sensor are all parallel.
To get as much in focus as possible, you should focus at the hyperfocal distance which depends on your sensor-size and lens aperture. If you focus at infinity, there will be less in focus but things may be acceptably sharp ...
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What you are thinking of is seam carving. The example you are thinking of comes from the Wikipedia article of the same name. Photoshop implements this and calls it "Content-aware scaling" and the GIMP calls it "Liquid Rescale".
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There are several key phrases for software which does this automatically:
"seam carving" — the basic technique for automatically dividing up an image based on features in the image;
"content aware", as in "content aware fill", "content aware scale", and "content aware move" — software features which use seam carving in image manipulation
"liquid", as in ...
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Sounds like stitching, but it could be accomplished through a few different types of compositing as well. For the guy, you could simply extract him as a layer and composite him back in to the image. So either stitching (which would be blending the two parts of the image together, or compositing, which would be separating to layers and then using the layers ...
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It's all about the lens.
Looking at the cameras which are called a bridge camera, the first thing you will notice is the big honking lens on the thing, I think the rest of the features can be compared with point and shoots but not this one. That's its most distinguishing feature whether or not it makes it compare to an SLR is a matter of opinion.
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Aperture refers to the opening in the lens. Small aperture should then mean that the lens has a smaller opening. The aperture size is denoted by numbers which are rather confusing. We use small number for big apertures and vice versa.
Aperture is denoted by 'f' numbers like f/4, f/2.8 etc. Do these numbers really make any sense? They do for sure and this is ...
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I tend to use wide and narrow to avoid such ambiguity, and usually include an actual f-number such as f/2.8 or f/16. I'm also always careful to include the "/" to remind anyone reading that the f-number is a fractional ratio, so that 1/4 is larger than 1/16.
When reading what others have written I tend to use context to try and determine what they meant by ...
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This is confusing for many beginners. If you're talking to a beginner, all bets are off! :)
If you're talking to someone with knowledge in the space, the term "small" or "large" aperture do indeed refer to the physical size of the opening, and not the numeric value.
You may see a "small aperture" also referred to as "stopped down" or a "high f-number".
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Unless there's further context about physical size, "small aperture" almost always means a higher f-number. This is also, of course, a smaller physical size for a given lens relative to wider apertures.
A small aperture means a high f number, like f/22 or f/32. Where one draws the line is open to interpretation, and to context. A small aperture is also ...
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It sounds like you are referring to the Rule of Thirds which states that when composing a shot, it's better to position things along 1/3s horizontally and spread them between the two thirds vertically.
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I'm pretty sure that it's just "subject off-center", with no special words. A Google search for that term returns a million results, and I don't see a common other term used, let alone a consensus for some other label.
However, in photography over the past century, it's pretty strongly related to the rule of thirds, which is widely understood as a ...
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It's called Time-lapse Photography.
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You need FF body and lens that is known to have good micro-contrast to get 3D-ish looking image (actually it's a side effect of micro-contrast). It's not that simple, Physics and Math.
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