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0

If your focus is really just getting out to 540mm in a very small package, I would use only the lens and crop the image to achieve the desired size for your intended use. Are you satisfied with it? Great, you're done. Not satisfied? Think long and hard about what you want. My experience with third-party teleconverters on mediocre lenses is that the results ...


2

The lens I am looking at is the [Tamron] 18-270 F/3.5-6.3 ... I am fairly certain of full compatibility of this lens with whichever body I end up choosing, but maybe someone can confirm this for me? Yes, it's compatible. In addition to that, I am considering purchasing a Tamron SP AF 2x Teleconverter (or other similar if there would be a better ...


2

but I have read that just maybe, teleconverters used with longer focal length telephoto zoom lenses isn't all its cracked up to be. Well, sort of. Not exactly. Teleconverters work best on longer focal length prime lenses. As you go shorter, generally, or if you use them on zoom instead of prime, there will be more potential issues with image quality. ...


1

People like me who still shoot old, manual, film cameras loaded with B&W film. Primes are cheaper, have basically nothing that will fail, and you can get faster primes for the same price. I also don't need AF (my bodies are all older Nikons that are MF only), and most MF lenses are primes. Having access to a bigger aperture when using film can be a big ...


2

Might also have to do with speed. Some zooms are limited in their range, being slower at longer focal lengths. Take a look at photographers on sidelines of football matches; they might have one long fast zoom and then a shorter lens on a second body in case the player gets close. They are, however, specialized lenses. Usually for situations where you are ...


45

Who in the world buys large primes? Wildlife and sports photographers, mostly. I'm struggling to see how one would find use in a long focal length prime, 300mm and above for example: without zoom, isn't your shot composition always at the mercy of how close or far away your subject is, meaning heavy cropping is almost always necessary in post? ...


4

You might buy one in order to get a balance of high quality, reasonable size and weight, fast aperture, and a lower price. As you say, people often get shorter primes because they like a particular field of view, and I don't think that's usually the case beyond, say, 90mm (in 35mm terms). That list of compromises can't be avoided — but giving up zoom lets ...


0

I have the Sigma 50-500mm, the OS (stabilisation) is fine, however the lens is a tad bit soft at the 500mm, and it's very heavy so a tripod is really mandatory. Can't say about the other lenses though.


1

I had a Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 lens. I don't know how that lens compares to the lenses you're considering. The image stabilization worked well, but autofocus hunted all the time. Image quality was fair, not great. Add a teleconverter and the image quality would have been poor. Autofocus, already poor, would not have worked at all, and shooting in ...


2

With the 70-300mm, I guess I could take pictures of the moon or any other close up objects 300mm doesn't really get you close enough for the moon. You could use a teleconverter, but you'd either have to get a third party one or make warranty-breaking modifications to a Nikon one. However, you can get some nice wildlife pictures at 300mm, particularly ...


1

Assuming you are working in good light during the day, you don't really need an extremely fast aperture. What you need is focal length. The more the better. But only you can answer the question regarding whether paying more for better performance is worth it or not. The Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS Contemporary is a popular lens due to the focal length ...


4

The Nikon AF 70-300mm F4-5.6 ED D was a fair lens back in the day, but the problem you'll have now is that it's not an AF-S lens -- meaning it doesn't have an autofocus motor built in -- and will therefore be manual-focus only on the 5300.



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