Napioa - Wind Origins

Napioa - Wind Origins
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1

The Nikon ED AF-S VR-NIKKOR 70-200mm 1:2.8G combined with a 2x teleconverter is probably the best choice overall, I have the Sigma 50-500mm myself, it very heavy, and it's very dark. The VR/IS is fair but you will still need good light, if you wish to keep ISO down. It's soft on the long end, so 70-200 2.8 with a teleconverter will probably be round the ...


3

I live in Alaska and have shot assignments involving bears for the US Forest Service and the NY Times [ for example ]. In Alaska photographing bears can mean many things. If you end up someplace like Brooks Camp in Katmai, you can actually get quite close to the bears because you are shooting from platforms around habituated animals. Other places you will ...


5

Sometimes the circumstance under which you are shooting trumps distinctions between the optical quality of one lens over another, even when there is significant difference in the optical quality of the lenses in question. This is one of those times. When shooting subject matter such as bears in the wilds of Alaska, focal length is the key consideration. ...


2

It is important whether you use it with a crop or a full frame camera and where in Alaska you go. But in general 200 or even 300 mm is not enough. Get the longest lens, do research and make reservations.


3

We can rule out the 70-300 right off. It's noisy and not great optically. I would take the 70-200 Nikkor as it's got good glass, big aperture and VR but is no good for landscape shots. The Sigma will handle the wide and very long ends but you are right that the compromises needed to make a 50-500 lens are going to result in poorer images. That really ...


6

I'd say that if you have to ask which lens would be most suitable, you're probably going to want the range of the Sigma 50-500mm. The 70-200mm f/2.8 is the best of the lenses you listed. The 70-300mm D has gone through a couple updates over the years, so compared to the other 2, it's a bit dated. But because you're not exactly sure of what you'll be seeing, ...


0

While not exhaustive, these are the terms for lens types I've run into: Prime vs. Zoom A prime lens is a lens with a fixed focal length. A zoom lens is a lens with a variable focal length. Simple as that. Wide, Normal, Telephoto These designations are about the focal length that the lens has: short, medium, and long, respectively. In full-frame ...


-1

First we need to define “normal” as to focal length. This is because wide-angle and telephoto are referenced from this value. All cameras can be fitted with a “normal” lens. Such a lash-up delivers an angle of view of about 45⁰. We are talking about a camera that yields a rectangular image. The 45⁰ angle of view results when the camera is held horizontal ...


2

Think of those as qualifiers, not types because they are not mutually exclusive: Relative to viewing-angle, lens can be called: Ultra-Wide, Wide-Angle, Normal, Telephoto, Super-Telephoto. These terms are not absolute either in that a lens can be wide-angle when mounted on one camera and normal or ultra-wide on another, depending if the sensor is relatively ...


2

I use a Tamron 16-300mm (APS-C lens) for travel, the flexibility is really good. The lens is obviously a compromise, and it's a very slow lens. But as a one lens for all purposes for travel, I can't thing of anything better (or I haven't tried any lens that fits me better). You can see some video reviews here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LudX0GmLZQ ...


2

Do some math: If you took a picture on your 35 mm and you cropped, lets say the width: 50% you need a 70mm lens. 75% (leaving just 1/4 of the total width) 140mm (150) lens. And so on. But if you are not cropping in exact proportions all your photos you need a zoom lens, for example a 70-200mm or 55-200mm. Look for a good quality one or you will leave ...


3

In my opinion, that ballhead is too lightweight for uses beyond holding smaller DSLRs with shorter/lighter lenses. Many tripod and ballhead manufacturers overstate their "rated" weight. For instance, the Sirui C-10X says it has a capacity of 28.7 lbs. But what is that, in photographic equipment terms? A Nikon D810 weighs 1.98 lb (990 g). With a 600 mm ƒ/4G ...


4

It depends how the head is made. Most ball-heads move a little which is called drift. A millimeter or two is common but should not be more for anything reasonable. Otherwise it makes framing rather hard. Certain ball-heads are designed specifically to prevent this and are called non-drift heads. Manfrotto for example has a Hydrostatic series like that. The ...


2

The Sirui C-10X ballhead has a capacity of 28.7 lb, about 13 kg (source : http://mob.sirui-photo.com/productseries.php?productclassid=28). Your Nikon 300mm f4 AF weights about 1.3 kg and a regular camera body is about 1 kg (1.2 kg top for Nikon D3x : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Nikon_DSLR_cameras) so the total weight your ball has to carry ...



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