Fresh Dew on a Rose

by adarsha joisa

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Maintain high situational awareness. Always know who's around you, what the mood of the crowd is. Stand on the side of the protesters, not the cops. That's because at least the cops won't be throwing rocks and bottles. Carry a bottle of water and some paper towels to wipe your face in case you get teargassed or pepper sprayed. Google around for "how to ...


One more tip: Don't assume that because it's a mass of people that you should focus on masses of people. The best shots of crowd events are often of individuals or small groups within the crowd.


Aperture Aperture Aperture To get that exact shot, with the same perspective and framing but with shallower depth of field, your only option is to use a wider aperture. Since you took it at maximum aperture on that lens, you'd need a different lens whose zoom range covers 62mm with a wider aperture. Alternatively a wider lens (e.g. 50 or 55mm prime, f1.8 ...


Photoshop: "select in focus", a fairly new feature. (Optional step: grow selection and feather the edge 2 px.) Invert Selection. Apply blur filter, or other creative background effects not limited to lens bokah. Personally, the background is great. Mostly bare but a couple mood-setting items. Just paint out the stick coming out of his shoulder. Perhaps ...


Although going with a longer lens would give the illusion of a shallower depth of field, it doesn't actually change in a situation like the one you propose. I created ƒ/Calc to help photographers work out the answers to problems of this sort. As far as I'm aware, it is the only photographer's calculator that incorporates several different calculators into a ...


Okay, so, really, two aspects here. First, would an 85mm lens let you blur the background more? Probably, because the framing for a longer focal length decreases the apparent depth of field, and because there are reasonably-priced and readily available 85mm prime lenses with wide apertures and generally nice technical image quality . But it's not a ...


The problem with taking long exposure of illuminated subjects alongside other illuminated objects is you lose contrast with the fact it's actually quite dark. The outside of the fountain, its building, and the surrounding buildings are all far too prominent. You want the fountain to be bright. You want to everything else to look like night. I think you'd ...


While it looks like your technique was pretty good, I think I'd have experimented a bit with composition. The fountain is clearly your subject, but there's a lot going on in the background of the photo, and I think it's really distracting from your subject. Consider this scene: As in your case, there are great details in the lower part of the fountain, ...


You wanted to use the effect of long exposures. What effects of long exposure are visible in your image? Lights are blown out. For the street lamp on the right, it seems to be ok. But the neon sign is rather ugly. The name of the restaurant is hard to read. So the long exposure doesn't work on lights close to you. The fountain becomes a closed curtain, ...


Try to take the picture without the lights of the restaurant in the background. Try to take a side shot of the statue, so the bright lights of the restaurant don't show and take away the relevance of the statue. When you take the picture, think of a story in your head and try to create that story through the picture.


The building is just messy. Use it better, or lose it. Move round to your left, so as to lose the building from the background. Will that put the "starburst" effect light over or behind the statue's head? Could be interesting. Or get closer (wide-angle lens too?) and lose the fountain surround. Just have the statue and its enigmatic blurred watery ...


Apart from others said, what would really help this photo is blurred background (and the bright sign in top left would look great in such case!). I'm suspecting that you've had to close your aperture to get this long exposure time, thus it was impossible to get nice bokeh-y background. So what I would do if I wanted to get blurred water AND blurred ...


I would have come around to the left about 40 degrees and get the building out of the shot, which would also allow you to play with that street light. You could back light the statue etc.


The question to ask yourself here: what are you trying to achieve with this photo? I'd guessing what you're thinking of the fountain and the water, but the building in the background is just as dominant in this photo, and (in my opinion anyway) not particularly interesting. Try and find some way to get it out of the photo - would it be possible to move ...


If you find a way to avoid the bright sign (top left) the picture will be more balanced in sense of light. The same is true about the entire building. At least try to make it blur


The intentional blurring of the water is a nice effect. It might have been interesting to get much closer, and perhaps to shoot from a low angle, to see the effect of the lights coming through the water.


Phones that run android can do this. Simply download the Google Camera app and use the Google Photo Sphere function. Ideally one should do this on a real (system)camera that runs Android eg Samsung Galaxy NX.

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