Dracula's Castle

by BJHStudios

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Well, the gist is - it depends on how picky you are about trails. It will almost always start to trail immediately, but it may not be noticeable until a certain point. Additionally, forget normal exposure rules for astrophotography. It's generally about getting the most light in that you can. The odds of overexposure are pretty slim unless you're in a ...


The effect is caused by diffraction. Typically this occurs stronger at smaller apertures - open your aperture (use a smaller f/number) to reduce the effect. The shape of the star is caused by how many blades your aperture has. A lens with a rounded blade aperture should also reduce the effect. You can read some basic, non-super-technical information ...


If I understand what your asking, how to get the sun to produce a multi-pointed sunburst or star flare like that (Fraunhofer diffraction), its relatively simple: stop down your aperture to the point where it is no longer circular, but a polygonal. Using a fairly small aperture will produce a star flare around most light sources that are not too small. The ...


I think rfusca is correct as to the reason for it in your linked image, but it's also possible to get the effect using a star filter and then the size of burst is dependent on the light source that triggers it.


There are 14 points to the star. This points to one specific option of doing it in camera. The lens has 7 blades. The diffraction spikes formed by the lens form at two spots for each blade, one major one and one minor one 180 degrees from the major one. You will notice that every other star point is shorter than its neighbors. As I said, this points to ...


There's probably some post-processing (HDR) to get everything exposed correctly, but you can get the sun's rays without any post-processing. It's hardly the best example, but you can see some of the effect here, where (except for cropping and resizing) I haven't done any post-processing at all: You want a narrow aperture (though I only used f/4.5 for the ...


One way to accentuate it in post; crank recovery/saturation; and play with blacks to even it out a bit. Can look nice with certain scenes(Below was a single 15s exposure@f/8.0, )


adjusting the warmth in the image can help add to the tones, as with saturation and hue, but this photo had a fairly slow shutter speed at f16 or thereabouts id guess which allowed the sun to appear starburst, perhaps using black glass?


I use the "Rule of 600". Divide your focal length into 600, and the result is your maximum exposure without the stars trailing. So with a 50mm lens, you can have a 12 second exposure. With a 15mm lens, a 40 second exposure. You generally want as wide an angle as possible, between 10-20mm if you have it. 30 seconds is fine if you bump the ISO up to say ...


Consider using a higher ISO, but that will create more noise in the image, and is likely to catch much more of a sky glow if you happen to be near a city or town. Best shoot in raw and try out a large number of ISOs for the shot, and then see how much detail and noise you could recover using Photoshop/Lightroom/Aperture/Other Software. You'll have to ...


To make big stars like this, consider using a softening filter. It will help to spread the energy over a larger area and this the star colors will show up better.

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