Nidelva river through Trondheim Norway

Nidelva river through Trondheim Norway
by Saaru Lindestokke                

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Well, the gist is - it depends on how picky you are about trails. It will almost always start to trail immediately, but it may not be noticeable until a certain point. Additionally, forget normal exposure rules for astrophotography. It's generally about getting the most light in that you can. The odds of overexposure are pretty slim unless you're in a ...


The effect is caused by diffraction. Typically this occurs stronger at smaller apertures - open your aperture (use a smaller f/number) to reduce the effect. The shape of the star is caused by how many blades your aperture has. A lens with a rounded blade aperture should also reduce the effect. You can read some basic, non-super-technical information ...


If I understand what your asking, how to get the sun to produce a multi-pointed sunburst or star flare like that (Fraunhofer diffraction), its relatively simple: stop down your aperture to the point where it is no longer circular, but a polygonal. Using a fairly small aperture will produce a star flare around most light sources that are not too small. The ...


I think rfusca is correct as to the reason for it in your linked image, but it's also possible to get the effect using a star filter and then the size of burst is dependent on the light source that triggers it.


There's probably some post-processing (HDR) to get everything exposed correctly, but you can get the sun's rays without any post-processing. It's hardly the best example, but you can see some of the effect here, where (except for cropping and resizing) I haven't done any post-processing at all: You want a narrow aperture (though I only used f/4.5 for the ...


One way to accentuate it in post; crank recovery/saturation; and play with blacks to even it out a bit. Can look nice with certain scenes(Below was a single 15s exposure@f/8.0, )


adjusting the warmth in the image can help add to the tones, as with saturation and hue, but this photo had a fairly slow shutter speed at f16 or thereabouts id guess which allowed the sun to appear starburst, perhaps using black glass?


I use the "Rule of 600". Divide your focal length into 600, and the result is your maximum exposure without the stars trailing. So with a 50mm lens, you can have a 12 second exposure. With a 15mm lens, a 40 second exposure. You generally want as wide an angle as possible, between 10-20mm if you have it. 30 seconds is fine if you bump the ISO up to say ...


Consider using a higher ISO, but that will create more noise in the image, and is likely to catch much more of a sky glow if you happen to be near a city or town. Best shoot in raw and try out a large number of ISOs for the shot, and then see how much detail and noise you could recover using Photoshop/Lightroom/Aperture/Other Software. You'll have to ...


To make big stars like this, consider using a softening filter. It will help to spread the energy over a larger area and this the star colors will show up better.

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