Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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9

Distortion caused by a lens's optics would give you barrel distortion (objects appear to bulge outward) or pincushion distortion (squishing inward). The skewed lines you are observing are straight; this is perspective distortion, and is not a problem caused by the lens nor fixable with better optics (you can fix it with a tilt-shift lens, but that's a ...


7

You're not buying the camera for the lens, nor planning to use only that lens, are you? And the review is not that bad: the lens is actually pretty good in the medium to upper range. Mainly there seems to be two criticisms: at the wide end, resolution is not good - but still better than not having it at all; other kit zooms just don't go that wide. ...


6

You're getting what is called Perspective distortion which is most noticable in wide angle lenses. Check out this link for more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion_(photography) Basically close up objects in the center of the frame will look enlarged while objects on the sides will be stretched away from the center of the photo.


6

In terms of which angles of view the lens(es) will allow you to select, you're correct: the combination of an 18-55 lens and a 55-200 lens will let you choose from exactly the same angles of view as a single 18-200 lens. However, I think you are missing a couple of important points, both of which are well covered in this answer: you'll get better image ...


5

It is not. What you are referring to is sensitivity to light. That is the ISO sensitivity is for and while there is a standard that describes it, digital sensors do not match exactly the posted sensitivity. A site like DxOMark actually measures ISO equivalence as part of its sensor benchmarks and you can commonly see a difference of ±1/3 EVs. The other ...


5

Theoretically both images should be the same brightness, even though the NEX sensor is larger, it stills receives same amount of light per unit area both lenses were set to f/3.5. The difference in brightness is due to different processing, there's nothing in the ISO standard that guarantee the same digital brightness values given the same exposure and ISO ...


4

Sticking with your requirements of around 12mm or so focal length, rectilinear, autofocus and less than around $400, the simple answer to this is "no, you can't have that" even if you're prepared to compromise on other things like speed, optical quality and (lack of) zoom. If you're prepared to give up on autofocus (which generally isn't too much of a ...


3

You're correct, a higher ISO will introduce noise and cause detail to be lost. However, it's important to understand how far you can increase ISO before it makes a noticeable impact. By the numbers, I'm sure that increasing one stop from 100 to 200 will undoubtedly result in a nearly imperceptible difference under pretty much any condition. I bet going from ...


3

You are correct that there is no free lunch. Software NR works by looking for sharp edges and trying to identify what is detail and what is noise, but at a very fine level, they can't be distinguished. What you will normally see with light NR is a reduction in fine detail, but gross detail is maintained. The more you turn up NR, the more gross the detail ...


3

First off, let's talk about your eyes. Just because you feel no discomfort is no guarantee you are safe to look at the sun with your naked eye. From a NASA news release about safe solar viewing during an eclipse: Damage to the eyes comes predominantly from invisible infrared wavelengths. The fact that the Sun appears dark in a filter or that you feel no ...


3

"How do I compare two prime lenses of different focal lengths? …I have two prime lenses, they capture different fields of view, so I'm comparing apples to oranges." By looking at pictures. Ideally lots of them, taken under conditions that match what you expect to use the lenses for, and deciding what you personally like. But then that's also the best way to ...


3

I'm not sure this will be the answer you're looking for, but I'll give it a shot. I won't mention focal length anywhere, either, as you don't want to base any comparison on that. Forgive me if I slip up. Short answer If you want to compare lenses qualitatively/subjectively, you need to test them shooting the scenes you intend them for. Compare your results ...


3

As an owner of an NEX-6 and two of the more expensive lenses currently available for it (the Sony 18-200mm zoom and the Sony Zeiss 24mm F1.8), and with the warning that I may be doing nothing more than reinforcing my own biases, I would say that, if they meet your needs, you shouldn't hesitate to purchase E-mount lenses. Why? First, the mirrorless camera ...


3

Low light, long exposure and "landscape" photography like your example is typically where you want to use your manual focus, live view assisted by zooming in. AF points need contrast, and you should point your camera at the edges of the white illuminated walls to preselect focus, confirm the focus is correct, and then place your camera. In concert fotography ...


2

Well, my first observation is that $500-700 and semi-professional don't fit together. $500-700 will barely get you a semi-professional lens, let alone a camera body. For that price range, you are looking at entry level consumer gear, not even mid-range consumer gear. Personally, with the lack of any kind of viewfinder (optical or EVF) I would recommend ...


2

Based on your explanation and sample photo, the only conclusion I can come to is that you are trying to photograph a scene with great depth with a lens at a very wide aperture that will only allow a narrow depth to be in focus. I am not sure you necessarily have a focus problem...rather, you have a depth of focus problem. You mentioned you are using a ...


2

Loss of sharpness in the dark is not all about focus. Notice that in the dark your camera uses higher ISO and longer exposure time. Motion blur happens and low-light turns so easily into noise. And then you get unsatisfying photos because of the noise, de-noising, and motion. Noise makes for fuzzy outlook, denoising eats details, and motionblur is ...


2

I'm guessing you were shooting the scene through a window? A window much closer to you than anything in the scene perhaps? It appears your camera focused on the window rather than the scene beyond the window. The red AF Illuminator probably bounced off the window and back to the camera. Try turning off the AF Illuminator as discussed on page 130 of the NEX-5 ...


2

One possible reason for the price difference can be found without even comparing the performance of the lenses. An f1.8 lens would generally be more expensive than an f2.8 lens. It's harder to build a lens with a large aperture without losing image quality. If you want to compare the lenses to each other, then you would concentrate on properties that aren't ...


2

The primary difference between your lenses is the maximum aperture or lens speed. There is a huge difference between 2.8 and 1.8 and it is generally expected that the price will double for such an increase in lens "speed". The way to "test" the difference between the lenses is to look at the situations where the difference in speed makes a difference. ...


2

This is really a simple one, and you can find the answer in most reviews. They're close enough in focal length that I don't think anyone would take both and swap in the field. Both lenses are okay performers, neither is particularly stellar, and the more 40% expensive one is objectively better. Sony even says so, listing "superior image quality" as a feature ...


2

You could use an AC Adaptor - The Sony AC-PW20 is the option here. Alternatively you could buy a third party non-OEM battery that is rated above the OEM battery in capacity. The Sony NP-FW50 is rated at 1080 mAh and you can find some 1500 mAh options out there if you look.


2

The Sony A6000 is an interchangeable-lens camera. If you were stuck with a poorly-rated lens, that should indeed be a major factor. But you're not stuck with that. You can either buy the camera in a "kit" including the lens or without the lens for $150 less. It sounds like you might want to skip the kit lens and save the money towards something else from the ...


1

You will find two differences: NFC Price An extended discussion, filled mostly with rants can be found here: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3543188#forum-post-52117675


1

To me it sounds more of a technical problem unrelated to actual photography, so places like SuperUser might yield more/better answers. Having said that, my initial guesses would be that the target computer is not connected to the same WiFi, or not reachable from there due to a firewall, for example. Another thought might be that whichever software running ...


1

Your intuition is right. As you raise noise-reduction, details get lost too. This means that there is no way to make photos more usable with noise-reduction alone. What most people do though is apply noise-reduction, particularly for color-noise which is often a separate control in software and then downscale. The result is a lower-resolution image which ...


1

When it is comfortable to look at it with the naked eye is probably a fairly safe standard to go with. Another conservative option would be when you can take a picture of the sun without it causing the sensor to max out (it isn't pure white and you can see detail). You can also use what is known as an ND or neutral density filter to reduce the intensity ...


1

"Versatility" is one of those terms that means different things to different photographers. Most people take photos to record important people, places, and events. Family, vacations, homes and pets – I wish I had more of these photos myself. Versatility in this case usually means "more zoom" (this is the number one thing people with 18-55mm kit lenses ask ...


1

The most versatile Sony E mount lens that is both light and compact, other than for low light use, is either one of the two kit lenses sold with various NEX models: The E 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS PZ or the E 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6. The 16-50 is very lightweight and compact when stored, so ideally fits your use case as a light travel camera. It may not meet your ...



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