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by Jakub

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11

It's called "Nisen Bokeh" and is mainly due to the lens design (though the background plays a part, it's possible to "provoke" this effect with any lens with the right background). Overcorrected spherical aberration (blur disks which are brighter in the periphery than the centre) is usually to blame. It's showing up more often with the A7 due to the use of ...


10

In this case, you shouldn't be using a grey card at all. Grey cards (and related devices and and cards) are used as a reference point to make an image's color neutral, as your second two images show, but you don't want neutral, you want warm. What you need to do is change to color temperature and/or saturation in post processing; changes to color ...


4

The problem is actually a problem of neither your eyes nor the camera being able to capture the color. Your best bet is setting the white balance to "sunlight" and going from there. Here is the reason: color is a continuum of wavelengths, like sound is a continuum of frequencies. Now the human eye has three different kind of receptors that have some ...


4

The ratio f/2.8 means the diameter of the entrance pupil is equal to the focal length divided by 2.8. The key thing to note about the above is that the entrance pupil is the image of the aperture stop as seen through the front of the lens, the ratio does not depend on the physical size of the aperture itself. A rear-mounted 2x teleconverter, such as you ...


3

Bulb mode holds the shutter open until you close it (or allow it to close). As you said, hold the shutter release down, or use a wireless remote. If you want more precise timing, something like TriggerTrap is what you want.


2

The A6000 is impressive camera with very sharp sensor. Surely to use it at best you need better lenses than 16-50. The good news is that these lens exist: the Zeiss/Sony, the old MF lenses (Canon FD 50 1.2 1.4) Zeiss Planar and so on. The little Sony 1650 is not bad in absolute, I can say that it is very good, considering the cost. If you use it with ...


2

Have a look at http://www.photoguard.co.uk/digital-camera-insurance.asp Also check your credit card insurance. Some cover this as part of the yearly fees.


2

The problem here is that -- whether you do that in post or in camera -- you don't have a proper point that you can say "hey, this is a neutral color". The camera actually accurately captured the color in its sensor information, it is just that the development process went a bit differently for the computer image than for the image you saw. What you see with ...


1

Lenses are interchangeable if they are made for the same mount and cover at least the imaging circle of the camera. Unfortunately, Sony offers a lot of combinations and has even changed naming recently. They have 2 mounts, E-mount and A-mount. Both of these have APS-C or Full-Frame coverage, so there are in all 4 combinations (APS-C A-mount, Full-Frame ...


1

How do I map these to Lightroom Lr calculates colour temperature and tint based on white balance coefficients in the raw file, not based on the camera settings for colour temperature and colour bias (AB/MG). When the camera settings for colour temperature, amber-blue (those are in fact fine adjustments of colour temperature; so they make for 1 parameter ...


1

The overall answer to your question: The system used by most digital cameras is based on the way color was fine-tuned in the film era. The color temperature setting corresponds to the film selected, and the AB and GM settings correspond to bias introduced by color conversion filters used during shooting or color compensating filters used during printing to ...


1

"A-B" is "amber-blue", or warmth bias; "G-M" is "green-magenta", or tint. The A-B setting is essentially a bias you can control around the colour temperature, so that if your camera would ordinarily have set the colour temperature to 5500K, a "A" filter setting will chose a slightly higher colour temperature so that the picture is rendered a little warmer ...


1

It's not apparent that anyone has read this. How, then, am I supposed to capture the colour of the sunlight itself? Your camera has a camera a setting specifically designed to do what you want. Follow the instructions below and you'll be able to achieve what you want. This method may not suit a certain subset of purists (it's equivalent to ye olde ...


1

White light is an especially problematic concept that becomes most apparent in photography. For me, as I type this, I have the room illuminated by some 60 watt light bulbs and the computer monitor is set for 3400K is a useful extension). And things that I think of as white are white. However, a few hours ago, light was shining in and the monitor was set ...


1

The problem here is that cameras do not capture the colour of light sources at all. They capture the colour of objects which reflect light. This wall is white, the neutral grey card is a neutral grey. To create a picture that shows a false yellowish colour, as you saw it, you need to manipulate. You could fix wb on a blue object, which looks grey in this ...


1

You are correct, it is computed from the JPEG and that makes it harder to tell if you've clipped the shadows/highlights. It doesn't make it less useful though. Most likely both histograms are calculated from a "gamma corrected" image and they will not be able to tell you if you've clipped for sure. The R, G and B channels on your histogram represent the ...


1

I don't have any link but I'm an sony A7 user and if you have it try to experiment at the highest speed (1/8000) with and whitout the first electronic curtain shutter. if your picture has bokeh you'll the shape modified by this factor. It may depends on the electronic speed of reading/writing. From 1/1000 to 1/8000 there is a clear effect, the faster the ...


1

What you are demonstrating in your pictures is more of a case of "aliasing" than pixelation. If that's what you mean (the perception that the picture is composed of straight lines rather than proper curves), it happens because of the real time picture resize algorithms the camera uses to display the 24MP images coming from the sensor on the 2MP EVF, and it ...


1

No: I love my NEX 5T. The kit lens, and the additional 16mm f/2.8 I purchased, are both unremarkable, (I really mean, they are terrible,) but I have a lot of fun, and have had some success, using an old Canon 50mm f/1.8 and and old Sigma 28mm f/2.8 with an adapter. The beauty of the NEX is that with a little practice you can get good results with manual ...



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