I Dare You!

by peter_budo

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11

It's called "Nisen Bokeh" and is mainly due to the lens design (though the background plays a part, it's possible to "provoke" this effect with any lens with the right background). Overcorrected spherical aberration (blur disks which are brighter in the periphery than the centre) is usually to blame. It's showing up more often with the A7 due to the use of ...


10

I think it's more the latter of your two reasons: the experience, talent, and care of the group who are willing to spend more on higher-end gear, vs. the format size alone, that creates the impression that better cameras make better pictures all by themselves. Someone who's willing to spend $2000 on a camera body and another $3000 on glass in a brand new ...


10

In this case, you shouldn't be using a grey card at all. Grey cards (and related devices and and cards) are used as a reference point to make an image's color neutral, as your second two images show, but you don't want neutral, you want warm. What you need to do is change to color temperature and/or saturation in post processing; changes to color ...


7

In most cameras the scene modes automatically set the file type to JPEG and apply different processing settings to those files (Landscape mode often boosts greens and blues, sunset mode boosts reds, for example). They also prioritise aperture and/or shutter speed appropriately. However, this comes at the cost of creative freedom - the camera is making all ...


7

In terms of which angles of view the lens(es) will allow you to select, you're correct: the combination of an 18-55 lens and a 55-200 lens will let you choose from exactly the same angles of view as a single 18-200 lens. However, I think you are missing a couple of important points, both of which are well covered in this answer: you'll get better image ...


6

No, larger sensor cameras are not more likely to mis-focus - if you take the Canon 1DX (with a modern lens) for example, it's a full-frame camera that's about as far away from "likely to mis-focus" as possible. But when a large sensor camera mis-focuses it's more noticeable, especially when most tiny sensor cameras (cellphones) have wide angle lenses. The ...


5

These are different designs, developed at different times. Forty years have gone between each was initially launched as the A-mount was simply acquired from Minolta which had by then fused into Konica-Minolta. The A-mount introduces AF which worked by Phase-Detection and hence lenses for that mount are designed to focus that way. Over the years, they were ...


5

There are many photos in the A6000 pool that look amazing [...] I can't get that close with any of my photos on the a6000. I think this is probably the most important point here - the photographer is much more important than the gear in making a photo. The best thing you can do at this point is to go away and practice, practice, practice (and possibly ...


4

I think the key thing for here is that smaller sensors inherently have more depth of field at the same aperture number and framing. That means that with a larger sensor, focus is more critical. It's not that the larger sensor is really worse. With a camera phone, in low light, the result will be very noisy (with automatic, non-optional noise reduction ...


4

An adapter is great if you already have Canon lenses or want to share lenses between Canon DSLRs and NEX cameras - but it isn't that good compared to getting the Sony lens. No adapter is perfect (actually, the lens and camera aren't perfect either) The adapter will add some more (usually small and almost unnoticeable, unless you pixelpeep) misalignment to ...


4

You are looking at it wrong. I've never had an accident or ever even seen an accident occur while I've been driving, but Nascar drivers are either in or witness accidents all the time. Does that mean that Nascar drivers are worse drivers? No, it means they are in situations where accidents happen more frequently. The same thing applies to your Flickr ...


4

The problem is actually a problem of neither your eyes nor the camera being able to capture the color. Your best bet is setting the white balance to "sunlight" and going from there. Here is the reason: color is a continuum of wavelengths, like sound is a continuum of frequencies. Now the human eye has three different kind of receptors that have some ...


4

The ratio f/2.8 means the diameter of the entrance pupil is equal to the focal length divided by 2.8. The key thing to note about the above is that the entrance pupil is the image of the aperture stop as seen through the front of the lens, the ratio does not depend on the physical size of the aperture itself. A rear-mounted 2x teleconverter, such as you ...


3

Most advanced cameras allow you to separate exposure and/or focus lock from a half press of the shutter button to allow each photographer to choose how and when focus and exposure are locked for a given composition. Even what happens by default in the camera's "factory" settings will often vary based on what shooting modes in terms of exposure and focus are ...


3

It means the same thing as it normally would. A lens can not let in more light than the size of its widest aperture though. Focus is achieved with the aperture all the way open. In other words, at EV0 (enough light for an f/1 image at ISO 100 for 1 second exposure), your camera will let in enough light through an f/2.8 lens to focus. If, however, you ...


3

More generally, you'll find that most cameras which are primarily stills cameras will be limited to 30 minutes of video. This is due to EU regulations which mean that anything which can record longer than 30 minutes is a "video camera" and attracts a higher rate of duty. Panasonic are a notable exception to this in that they produce separate EU and non-EU ...


3

Most kit lenses don't get glowing reviews. Where you have to take the "invest in the glass not the camera" philosophy to heart is in the overall lens selection for the mount you're about to buy into. Digital bodies come and go all the time. They depreciate at the rate of most digital electronics: rapidly. Glass is much slower to lose value or to become ...


3

Bulb mode holds the shutter open until you close it (or allow it to close). As you said, hold the shutter release down, or use a wireless remote. If you want more precise timing, something like TriggerTrap is what you want.


2

The A6000 is impressive camera with very sharp sensor. Surely to use it at best you need better lenses than 16-50. The good news is that these lens exist: the Zeiss/Sony, the old MF lenses (Canon FD 50 1.2 1.4) Zeiss Planar and so on. The little Sony 1650 is not bad in absolute, I can say that it is very good, considering the cost. If you use it with ...


2

Actually, they aren't much smaller. Lens size for similar formats is actually pretty comparable, if you look at similarly speced APS-C vs. APS-C designed lenses. Take the examples (on camerasize.com) of 18-55 kit lenses, the 55-210 vs. a 55-250, or crop 35/1.8 lenses. The size difference is mostly between full frame and crop lenses. But if you look at a ...


2

The scene modes are simply collections of settings to make 'auto mode' work in a way suited to particular subjects (e.g. the 'portrait' mode will prefer large apertures, the 'landscape' mode will prefer small apertures - to give a simple example). If you're comfortable setting aperture / shutter speed / ISO yourself (and know what to use for different ...


2

With conventional Phase Detection AF systems found in SLRs the width of the entrance pupil of the lens is one of the factors that determines the baseline: how far apart the rays from each side of the lens are from each other. The wider the aperture, the wider the baseline. The wider the baseline the more difference there will be between out of focus light ...


2

Sony 18-200mm for $748 at BH Canon ef-s 18-200 for $699 BH + Metabones adapter for $399 for Af BH The sony is both cheaper and lighter. If you dont have any canon cameras or don't plan to get canon cameras, I would stick with Sony if I was you. Metabones reviews say AF is slow with it. I'm not sure how it compares vs AF with a sony camera but it's something ...


2

your 3 images are al expected. Your flash is very little impact. You see impact on the metal pole to the right and the ground in front of you (look at the lower left). Your flash tells your cameras it near daylight 5500K WB) so it sets that WB. In both images with flash. The ground in the bottom and the right metal pole has a nice color with that WB but the ...


2

The brightness of the light from your flash falls off with the square of the distance to the subject. For example, if you are using only flash for illumination and something 10 feet away is exposed properly, then something 20 feet away will be 2 f-stops (4x) darker. Something only 100 feet away will be 100 times (almost 7 f-stops) darker. Conversely, the ...


2

The problem here is that -- whether you do that in post or in camera -- you don't have a proper point that you can say "hey, this is a neutral color". The camera actually accurately captured the color in its sensor information, it is just that the development process went a bit differently for the computer image than for the image you saw. What you see with ...


2

Have a look at http://www.photoguard.co.uk/digital-camera-insurance.asp Also check your credit card insurance. Some cover this as part of the yearly fees.


1

There's 2 things to consider. Firstly the overall contribution of flash compared to ambient light. If the flash is putting out a small amount of light compared to the total ambient light over the course of the exposure then the flash itself and any changes to the flash will go unnoticed. Secondly flash exposure compensation only biases the flash metering ...


1

With an exposure time of 5 seconds, with the amount of light being gathered, the relatively far distance of almost all subjects, and the relative weakness of the flash used, I would expect there to be very little difference. The difference between photos 1 & 2, and photo 3 is the white balance.


1

I have a NEX-3N. There, when the magnified view is displayed, you can switch between the two magnifications via the button next to the lower right corner of the display (next to it, the magnification you can switch to is displayed, while in the upper left corner you see the current magnification). To complete the answer for others, here's how to enable the ...



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