Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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12

Have you seen a gallery showing decades old photographs from 35mm film? All mirrorless cameras do better, much better. Do you think those pictures would get rejected today on the grounds of being to grainy, unsharp or lacking contrast? Gallery quality has much more to do with with content of photographs than anything else. Light, color, gesture says Jay ...


9

Distortion caused by a lens's optics would give you barrel distortion (objects appear to bulge outward) or pincushion distortion (squishing inward). The skewed lines you are observing are straight; this is perspective distortion, and is not a problem caused by the lens nor fixable with better optics (you can fix it with a tilt-shift lens, but that's a ...


7

You're not buying the camera for the lens, nor planning to use only that lens, are you? And the review is not that bad: the lens is actually pretty good in the medium to upper range. Mainly there seems to be two criticisms: at the wide end, resolution is not good - but still better than not having it at all; other kit zooms just don't go that wide. ...


6

You're getting what is called Perspective distortion which is most noticable in wide angle lenses. Check out this link for more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion_(photography) Basically close up objects in the center of the frame will look enlarged while objects on the sides will be stretched away from the center of the photo.


6

In terms of which angles of view the lens(es) will allow you to select, you're correct: the combination of an 18-55 lens and a 55-200 lens will let you choose from exactly the same angles of view as a single 18-200 lens. However, I think you are missing a couple of important points, both of which are well covered in this answer: you'll get better image ...


5

AF-C mode is a continuous focus mode. That is, it will not "lock" focus and hold it until the picture is taken. It is best used for when you are tracking a moving subject such as an athlete moving across a field. It will constantly check the focus as the scene changes and adjust to those changes. The reason you see this behavior even in static scenes is ...


5

Yes a 49mm - 58mm step up ring is what you need. Here is one at BHPhotoVideo for example. And here are a bunch of results at amazon. I would also consider one of the kits that come with multiple step up rings such as this: http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Anodized-49-52mm-52-55mm-55-58mm/dp/B001G445Q4/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y


5

I have a NEX-5n and as far as I know there is no way to intentionally leave the shutter closed. The way the camera works is that the shutter is always open for live-view, focusing, and metering. When you press the shutter 'release' the shutter closes, opens for the appropriate exposure time, and then closes again while the sensor is read out, and finally ...


5

Theoretically both images should be the same brightness, even though the NEX sensor is larger, it stills receives same amount of light per unit area both lenses were set to f/3.5. The difference in brightness is due to different processing, there's nothing in the ISO standard that guarantee the same digital brightness values given the same exposure and ISO ...


5

It is not. What you are referring to is sensitivity to light. That is the ISO sensitivity is for and while there is a standard that describes it, digital sensors do not match exactly the posted sensitivity. A site like DxOMark actually measures ISO equivalence as part of its sensor benchmarks and you can commonly see a difference of ±1/3 EVs. The other ...


4

Short: Turn camera OFF when not used. If that makes no difference, remove battery from camera. Just opening the battery door so contact is broken should be enough. (ie camera will not turn on. If using in standby look to see if any optional features make a difference (GPS, Bluetooth, WiFi, ...) If battery discharges completely from full in 3 months when ...


4

Metabones makes an EF-to-E adapter that brings all of the electronic features across except autofocus and some of the lens correction information. A full-featured adapter could happen, but you could lose out on an awful lot of shooting waiting for it. Selecting lenses with an eye toward the future is a good idea, but the adapter's US$400 price tag makes ...


4

Sticking with your requirements of around 12mm or so focal length, rectilinear, autofocus and less than around $400, the simple answer to this is "no, you can't have that" even if you're prepared to compromise on other things like speed, optical quality and (lack of) zoom. If you're prepared to give up on autofocus (which generally isn't too much of a ...


3

I'm not sure this will be the answer you're looking for, but I'll give it a shot. I won't mention focal length anywhere, either, as you don't want to base any comparison on that. Forgive me if I slip up. Short answer If you want to compare lenses qualitatively/subjectively, you need to test them shooting the scenes you intend them for. Compare your results ...


3

Low light, long exposure and "landscape" photography like your example is typically where you want to use your manual focus, live view assisted by zooming in. AF points need contrast, and you should point your camera at the edges of the white illuminated walls to preselect focus, confirm the focus is correct, and then place your camera. In concert fotography ...


3

In general lens lines stick around for a good long while and a typical reason to get a DSLR is so that one can invest in glass, but that said, it's never a sure thing how long a particular lens line will be around. I would be a little more confident with lens for EF mount or Nikor's mount since those are by far the two most popular and even if they get ...


3

As an owner of an NEX-6 and two of the more expensive lenses currently available for it (the Sony 18-200mm zoom and the Sony Zeiss 24mm F1.8), and with the warning that I may be doing nothing more than reinforcing my own biases, I would say that, if they meet your needs, you shouldn't hesitate to purchase E-mount lenses. Why? First, the mirrorless camera ...


3

"How do I compare two prime lenses of different focal lengths? …I have two prime lenses, they capture different fields of view, so I'm comparing apples to oranges." By looking at pictures. Ideally lots of them, taken under conditions that match what you expect to use the lenses for, and deciding what you personally like. But then that's also the best way to ...


3

First off, let's talk about your eyes. Just because you feel no discomfort is no guarantee you are safe to look at the sun with your naked eye. From a NASA news release about safe solar viewing during an eclipse: Damage to the eyes comes predominantly from invisible infrared wavelengths. The fact that the Sun appears dark in a filter or that you feel no ...


3

You are correct that there is no free lunch. Software NR works by looking for sharp edges and trying to identify what is detail and what is noise, but at a very fine level, they can't be distinguished. What you will normally see with light NR is a reduction in fine detail, but gross detail is maintained. The more you turn up NR, the more gross the detail ...


3

You're correct, a higher ISO will introduce noise and cause detail to be lost. However, it's important to understand how far you can increase ISO before it makes a noticeable impact. By the numbers, I'm sure that increasing one stop from 100 to 200 will undoubtedly result in a nearly imperceptible difference under pretty much any condition. I bet going from ...


2

As Sony works to expand their system, they've introduced a few more pancake lenses. You can see the entire lens lineup on Sony's E-mount Lenses page. Of these as of 2013, there are two "real" pancake primes plus a collapsing zoom lens which reasonably could be categorized the same way. SEL-16F28 16mm f/2.8 Wide-Angle Lens SEL-20F28 20mm f/2.8 Wide-Angle ...


2

Some lenses meant for other mounts can be used with help of adapters. For example, Zeiss Planar 35/2 for Contax G. With a Pentax adapter, you could use the Pentax DA Limited line pancakes (21mm, 40mm and 70mm). Pentax, Canon or Nikon adapter would let you use Voigtländer's Ultron 40mm f/2 or Color Skopar 20mm f/3.5 with corresponding mount.


2

I think "invest" is the wrong word here. Lenses will typically last ten or more years. This is many times as long as a typical body will stay interesting. Read http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2010/07/lenses-dont-collect-the-whole-set it describes cost effective ways to buy lenses. For all brands, some of their lenses are really expensive. But as others ...


2

Well, my first observation is that $500-700 and semi-professional don't fit together. $500-700 will barely get you a semi-professional lens, let alone a camera body. For that price range, you are looking at entry level consumer gear, not even mid-range consumer gear. Personally, with the lack of any kind of viewfinder (optical or EVF) I would recommend ...


2

Based on your explanation and sample photo, the only conclusion I can come to is that you are trying to photograph a scene with great depth with a lens at a very wide aperture that will only allow a narrow depth to be in focus. I am not sure you necessarily have a focus problem...rather, you have a depth of focus problem. You mentioned you are using a ...


2

Loss of sharpness in the dark is not all about focus. Notice that in the dark your camera uses higher ISO and longer exposure time. Motion blur happens and low-light turns so easily into noise. And then you get unsatisfying photos because of the noise, de-noising, and motion. Noise makes for fuzzy outlook, denoising eats details, and motionblur is ...


2

The primary difference between your lenses is the maximum aperture or lens speed. There is a huge difference between 2.8 and 1.8 and it is generally expected that the price will double for such an increase in lens "speed". The way to "test" the difference between the lenses is to look at the situations where the difference in speed makes a difference. ...


2

I'm guessing you were shooting the scene through a window? A window much closer to you than anything in the scene perhaps? It appears your camera focused on the window rather than the scene beyond the window. The red AF Illuminator probably bounced off the window and back to the camera. Try turning off the AF Illuminator as discussed on page 130 of the NEX-5 ...



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