Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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22

ND filters Advantages No extra post-processing required. You can see the result in the viewfinder. Disadvantages Making the exposure is more complicated because you have to select a filter and place the transition appropriately for the scene. You probably need several filters (of different density and transition abruptness) to cover a sufficiently ...


18

This is normal because in the day time, the sky is usually the brightest part of the scene. If you lower the exposure by applying negative exposure compensation, your sky will get darker and more blue. This will cause other elements in the image to darken and some may end under-exposed. This is because a change in exposure is global. What you need is to ...


16

I think this is an example of: use the opportunities you have, rather than the ones you wish you had. The situation you describe is tricky, and it'll be difficult to get the kind of grand, well-lit landscape that you seen in magazines. But, as Kyle suggests, perhaps there are different interpretations of the scene that could work. Some specific suggestions ...


11

Some post processing is needed for some images, and most images benefit from some post processing. When you take an image like this, where most of it is blue, the automatic white balance will be fooled into thinking that the image should be much less blue. If you had used the "daylight" setting for white balance, it would have been a lot closer to the ...


10

Here's a few methods I'm aware of: Circular Polariser filter A lot of the light from the sky is polarised during the day, so a simple CP filter can drastically cut down the amount of light you get, so that it doesn't blow out. You also get a lot of polarised reflections from vegetation and water, so this can cut glare and improve contrast throughout the ...


9

If you are just pointing your camera at the sky and getting just sky and clouds in which are overexposed, you can increase your shutter speed to decrease the exposure, lower your fstop (make the aperture number bigger) or decrease your iso if it is too high to fix these problems. You will need to be in manual mode to control that properly. If you are having ...


8

If you shot that image in RAW, you can try to recover some detail using Photoshop, or better yet your camera's native RAW converter. If the sky is suppoed to be pure blue, you can just do a color replace in photoshop and apply blue, or duplicated the layer, apply blue filter to it, and erase everything else but the sky to show the original image below. If ...


8

It depends on how badly the sky was overexposed. If it's "blown out" to pure white, the only real option to restore any sort of definition or texture is to bring the image into Photoshop or another editor and create a composite of multiple images - if you have an image with a properly-exposed sky, merge the two images together so that you use the sky from ...


8

Space is really REALLY big and that has an amazing impact on angular momentum. Think about the sun in the sky. We're on a ball of rock that is moving at 67,000 mph and spinning at around 1000 miles per hour, but yet the sun crawls across the sky. The reason is because that while the speeds may be very high, the distance is even higher. At very long ...


7

I'm surprised nobody mentioned a polarizing filter. That can do wonders on a blue sky, depending on the angle from the sun. Think about what sky light actually is. It's light from the sun getting scattered from small particles in the atmosphere. Those are going to be largely dielectric, so will be polarized over a range of angles. The light from any one ...


7

IT is enough to add a cooling filter (25% Cooling Filter (80) in Photoshop) to the image and increase a little the contrast and saturation (10% or so). Do not overdo it or the result will be unrealistic. You could use a polarizing filter for a darker sky. always shoot in raw to be able to change the white balance later. If unsure of the details you whant to ...


7

To paraphrase a line from "The Unsinkable Molly Brown", "Only shoot by day or night or somewhere in between". In my opinion there really isn't a 'best' time for B&W- it depends on what your vision is of the particular scene you want to shoot. Want a dark sky for architectural or fluffy cloud shots? Shoot during the day and kill the blue channel in post ...


6

I don't think there's a lot you can do photographically. I think the quality of the photo will come down to how strong the rainbow is, and how you process the image (either by the choice of picture style/JPEG saturation level in camera, or Raw processing). It takes a combination of factors which all have to come together to form a strong rainbow — you need ...


5

I use Apple Aperture, and this is my normal way of dealing with an overexposed sky (or anything overexposed for that matter) Turn on overexposure highlights (option-shift-h), to show where detail is lost to overexposure Turn up the "Recovery" slider in the "Exposure" plug-in, until no overexposure is shown (or until the slider is at max). Recovery will ...


5

Polarizers and neutral density filters will go a long way to help this, but they are not a panacea. At some point you will hit their limits and will need to consider an alternate time of day to really get the shot. That is, after all, the "secret" of photography: the right time at the right place.


5

For star trails (which is one type of astrophotography), light pollution has one major impact and some lesser impacts. The prime impact is that light pollution will make less stars visible. Less stars visible means less trails and usually as a result, a somewhat 'sparse' sky in the image. I have seen nice images over populated areas but they have only a few ...


4

I'll just add that there are alternatives to HDR tone-mapping. Sometimes manually blending layers in photoshop works well (and gives you a more natural looking result, similar to using a grad filter except you have a lot more control over the transition). Another good option is exposure fusion, as implemented in Tufuse and Tufuse Pro. This gives a more ...


4

Under Rayleigh scattering the sky will look greener and then yellower the closer you get to the sun, however with the sun high in the sky I don't think that's what is happening here. I think pollution is a more likely cause, especially as it seems to exist close to the horizon. Filters (polarizing/UV) may make the sky a darker, richer tone, I'm not sure they ...


4

I'm guessing from your taks you are using Photoshop CS5. Doesn't photoshop CS5 have the nifty content aware deletion tool that works wonder with such things? Here's a tutorial on using it.


4

If the sky is truly blown out and has no detail, you can add some blue to it so that it's not so bright, and looks like a realistic blue sky. Select the sky. Given it is blown out this would be easy using Select > Color Range, and pick "Highlights" from the drop down options. Feather by a few pixels and use that as a mask to start. An alternate way is ...


4

There is a lot of thing out in the atmosphere, clouds are visibles but some vapor and dust are here even when the sky looks clear. The fact is that all that stuff has the effect of reflecting and diffusing light, so does also the air itself. For a very bright source the overall effect is a diffuse blue light, yep that's why the sky is blue by diffusing ...


4

Try a 3-shot HDR if your camera supports Auto Exposure Bracketing... It's easiest if you are able to carry a tripod, but otherwise if you can learn to hold your camera steady you can still get usable shots. I have succeeded in a 7-shot HDR handheld. (Software that combines them like Photomatix have an option to auto-align). A common misconception with HDR ...


3

The easiest first step you could have taken is shoot a neutral target like a gray card or Expo Disc. Your color temperature seems too warm, and the target would have helped you bring all your images into line. Good instructions on setting custom white balance on your camera are in the camera's manual and you may find pointers from Expo Disc as well. Too ...


3

What software do you use for post-processing? The highlight recovery tool in Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw (for Photoshop) does exactly what you're after. (Other software such as Aperture will certainly have a similar feature.) It may be that the sky is so badly overexposed that you simply can't recover any detail, but you'll probably be pleasantly ...


3

The sky is being overexposed as it's brighter than your subject. Try positioning your subject where the sun is behind you so that it's getting a lot of light and will be better balanced with the sky. If you find the lighting on your subject to be flat or too bright for a model (he/she is squinting) then you should use a flash to light your subject and ...


3

The answer is to stitch as much as you can automatically (by restricting the selection to images that contain enough well defined features to generate control points) and then fill in the gaps yourself using the water and sky images, simply arrange the images sensibly and blend the edges together (you shot with plenty of overlap, right?). You may even be ...


3

This problem is caused by the shot having too much dynamic range; too much difference between the darkest and lightest parts of the image. If you want to get the shot right in-camera, then you need a set of graduated neutral density filters. These limit the amount of light coming from a selected part of the image, so you essentially have two exposures in ...


3

A generic rule of thumb is to manage as much as you can in camera and avoid post-processing as much as possible. In order to capture the sky properly you will want to make sure to point at the sky when getting your camera to evaluate the exposure, lock the settings and recompose. You may also want to shoot RAW in order to be able to play with the White ...



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