glasses

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I know this post is old, but I wanted to put in my two cents. I have a Sony A77 Mk2. The way I shoot is take multiple photos, then compare them at 100% magnification and look for any sort of blurring. I do this as for some reason I have trouble steadying my hands, but that's beyond the point. When I switched over from my A300 to the A77 Mk2, I started to ...


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Assuming your question is in the context of a multi shot burst taken by holding down the shutter button, technically speaking shutter lag would apply only to the first frame and not each subsequent frame only if you have the camera set to take all of the photos in the burst without re-metering or refocusing between each frame. Even then there is an ...


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The early "black" Konica Hexar AF had a silent mode that was very good. For complicated reasons Konica disabled it in later versions of the camera. But it was still there in the firmware and could be hacked back into existence. Plus it had a sweet 35/2. Plus active AF that focused perfectly in complete darkness. They even used IR for the active AF so there ...


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There was a Canon Rebel model that had a semi transparent mirror, so half the light went to the viewfinder and half could pass to the film, so there was no need to flip the mirror, which is the loudest process on a SLR camera. On a tween lens camera there is no need to flip any mirror at all, so the cameras were very silent.


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In simple terms, the "baseline" exposure in cameras in the "olden days" was 1/125 shutter at f/8 aperture on ISO100 film. This would a give good in bright daylight. I expect camera shutters were actually calibrated for that 1/125 of a second. Going faster by a stop just meant doubling to 1/250, 1/500 and do on. Going slower, you didn't want to express it to ...



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