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Digital cameras do have an ISO rating. In fact most of them have many ISO sensitivities at which they can shoot. There are even third party sites that measure how accurate those sensitivity settings are in a lab. Here, for example, are the results for selected versus actual ISO for three of the top cameras currently on the market. (Click "Measurements-->ISO ...


Generally speaking, to get proper exposure, you need a certain amount of light. If the light levels are low—say indoors or at night—then you have to compensate for that somehow. If your lens is limited on aperture (say, you're using the 18-55 kit lens at 55mm, so your maximum aperture is limited only to settings of f/5.6 or smaller), your auto ...


On the D610, I prefer using the 'Remote Shutter Delay' set to 3s than the Mirror Lock-Up. These two essentially do the same thing but need only one press for the former. This makes it possible to capture sharp long exposures even without a wireless remote. It works with it too though. Having the remote opens you the option to do much longer BULB exposures ...


You are essentially correct, yes. Firstly, you can leave Long Exposure NR on all the time. The 'mirror up' etc settings you are referring to determine what happens when you press the remote control. You want to set it to 'Mirror Up', because the action of raising the mirror causes the camera to vibrate, introducing a slight blur to your shot, which is ...


It's actually even easier than that, since times below 0.3 seconds are commonly displayed as fractions of a second. So, "20" would be 1/20 second. Since you have a 35mm lens, that would correspond to 1/35 second or "35" (or the next higher available number). No need to go decimal here, just stay with fractions :)


Your calculations are wrong: 1/35 is 0.03 seconds and you can use 1/30 sec. (as standard setting and very close to 1/35) If you see 20 this mean 1/20 of the second. And with such speed there is probability you make blurry photos


Great! You told us what camera you are using!! So, maybe reading a bit about the exposure triangle might be able to help you out a bit. I found on Wikipedia that the XA2 was a 35mm ƒ/3.5 lens. Are you using the flash at all? It could simply be that the lighting environment is too low/poor and it's using a slower shutter speed. Perhaps if the lens were ...


The "faster" films work by having larger grains of photon-collecting chemicals. This has two effects: you get the same exposure with less photons hitting the film compared to "slower" film, and because of the larger grains, the image will be more coarse. If you don't make large prints, the second effect may be unnoticeable. Effectively you have to test ...

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