glasses

Glasses                                             
by Meysam                

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2

You are too short on your description. But here are the basic options. A) Is the background also blured? Use a tripod. B) Use a flash. Try to bounce it on the church celling to achive a more natural look. C) Push the ISO... there is a chance your camera simply can not handle the situation. This in my opinion is the best reason to upgrade a camera, better ...


4

I think your issue here is two-fold. You're not just trying to capture fast action, you're trying to capture fast action in low light. There is no hard-and-fast set number that will guarantee you won't have any motion blur from fast action. The faster the action, the faster your shutter speed needs to be to "freeze" it. The problem that's probably ...


1

It depends on the speed of the movement, the distance and the focal length used. The moving subject will move at some angular velocity relative to your vantage point (this is given by the speed of the movement divided by the distance), your focal length determines the field of view, so you then know how fast the movement is relative to the size of your image ...


0

Burst mode does not enable your camera to have a higher frame rate. It does seem possible that in full auto mode, software might use the signal that a user has entered burst mode as a signal that biases other settings toward shorter exposures, but this won't exceed the capacity of the camera that you could set in manual mode. One use case for burst mode ...


5

In good light, your shutter speed will be something like a hundredth of a second (or less), so it's basically negligible in the limitations of continuous-drive. There's some inherent limits from moving the mirror and resetting the shutter, but the primary limits are processing time and writing the data. It takes some time to read the sensor data and to ...


0

In simple terms, the "baseline" exposure in cameras in the "olden days" was 1/125 shutter at f/8 aperture on ISO100 film. This would a give good in bright daylight. I expect camera shutters were actually calibrated for that 1/125 of a second. Going faster by a stop just meant doubling to 1/250, 1/500 and do on. Going slower, you didn't want to express it to ...



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