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by VonSchnauzer

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The problem seems to be you don't know what exposure is. Exposure is the density of light that hits the sensor controlled by aperture and shutter speed. So in aperture priority mode exposure compensation changes shutter speed. Now what about ISO. In film ISO was the sensitivity of film to light. It was therefore also part of exposure. A lot of people ...


Depending on how much light you have, you can probably get good results with an f/1.8 lens. I assume you're using the kit lens. Otherwise, try flash.


You can use a wired remote release that has a built in intervalometer, such as this fairly inexpensive one or this one. Regardless of the brand name stamped on them, they all seem to be made identically. You then set the camera to Bulb and let the timer in the remote open and close the shutter.


I guess you are confused with term "faster lens". It basically a high quality glass with very small f number say f/1.2. The use of this kinda aperture is in low light conditions. When you can bring down the f number to gather more light, it helps you choose a faster shutter speed, you can pick a shutter speed you camera is designed for in your case no matter ...


I'm not sure what you are hoping for. The shutter is not in the lens, but rather in the camera. A lens can't increase the maximum shutter speed of the camera itself unless it had it's own independent shutter. I'm not aware of any such lenses. Speed Boosting adapters are not used to increase the maximum shutter speed of the camera, but rather to focus ...


While you can use the Bulb mode and press the shutter release button, the button presses are likely to cause unwanted camera shake, even on the sturdiest tripod. I use and recommend an intervalometer such as this: Notice that the shutter release time can be set for any time up to 99 hours, 59 ...


Long exposures are one area where electronic sensors can't do what film did. Electronic sensors accumulate noise over time, in addition to any signals due to light hitting the sensor. This is why the designers of such cameras limit the maximum exposure time so something around 30 seconds. If you could hold the shutter open, and have the sensor therefore ...


Put it in Manual (M) mode and roll the wheel until it shows 'Bulb' on the display. Press and hold the shutter button for the desired length of time. You don't need a remote, but it helps to prevent camera shake to a great extent. P.S. The manual is your friend.


At 1/250, you are trying to exceed the x-sync speed of the 6D (which is 1/180, as you have found), which explains the black bar. Don't forget that on the 450D, as a crop-sensor camera, the shutter has less distance to travel, so doesn't need to move as fast to give the same exposure time, which explains why some full frame cameras have a slower x-sync speed ...

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