Lightnings taking a ride

by ceinmart

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26

Use the ambient light to illuminate the waterfall. Use a fairly powerful flash to illuminate your human subject. The quick duration of the flash will freeze her, especially if she remains fairly still over the long exposure. The narrow aperture you will need to properly expose with the flash will also give better depth of field so that the water fall is also ...


24

Shutters are probably more accurate/reliable now, but more importantly with digital photography you get instant feedback so you can tell right away if there are any exposure problems, you're not going to ruin several rolls of film before you find out. I had a 1DsII that had a shutter which suddenly became unreliable at anything faster than 1/500s, I ...


24

What you are looking for is a ND (Neutral Density) filter. To illustrate, here is an example of photo taken in daylight in a street with a ND1000 filter. The filter allowed a shutter speed of 6 seconds. With no filter, with the same aperture and ISO, the shutter speed would have been approximately 6/1000 = 0.006 secondes (no "ghosts" effect). Contrary to ...


14

Apart from using an ND filter, you might be able to achieve the desired effect by taking multiple photos and then blending them in post processing. Either an automatic blend with "ghost removal" might work, or layering the images and manually masking/unmasking selectively (in effect "painting out" the people). All of this pretty much requires a tripod for ...


12

It's a case of 'read the manual'. Page 54 - D600 manual. Just posting in case any one else ponders this. Exposure Depending on the scene, exposure may differ from that which would be obtained when live view is not used. Metering in live view is adjusted to suit the live view display, producing photographs with exposure close to what is seen ...


11

Your camera is limiting your shutter speed to the 60D's maximum sync speed. If you were to use a faster shutter speed, you'd have black bars at the top and/or bottom of the frame, because the shutter curtains would be covering part of the sensor when the flash burst goes off. The only way to use a faster shutter speed than 1/250s with flash it to use ...


10

This is actually a characteristic of the leaf shutter used in Fuji's X10/X20/X30 and X100 cameras. The leaf shutter can only travel so quickly. The wider the aperture is open, the slower the shutter speed has to be to accommodate the operation speed of the leaf shutter. It's a mechanical limit. In M and shutter priority modes, Fuji is allowing the faster ...


10

In principle, your rationale is correct. However, there is no usable period during which an ordinary single flash is emitting at constant power. The power of a typical on-camera flash quickly increases from zero to its maximum value in about 0.1 ms (i.e. 1/10 000th s). Then it exponentially decreases with a half-life of roughly 1 ms; i.e., it decreases to ...


10

Take multiple photos, including the background without the subject present. Expose differently to fit each element. Combine in Photoshop. You can also spend more time playing with different settings when the foreground subject is not present, without worrying about keeping her interested. With a tripod and near-perfect alignment, blending layers is easy. ...


9

So, it helps to start with knowing what a "stop" means. See What is one "stop"?, but, fundamentally, each stop is a doubling or halving of the exposure. So, given two shutter durations, you can find the number of stops between them by calculating the binary logorithm (log₂) of each, and subtracting. (If you don't remember your elementary school ...


7

Just to add a bit of links to the other (good) answers, if you do not want to use a ND filter, you can use multiple exposure and use an averaging method to simulate a long exposure --- basically, 20 exposures at 1/10 of seconds will be more or less equivalent to a 2 seconds exposures, or use a median filter, which can even be better --- in the right ...


6

Digital cameras do have an ISO rating. In fact most of them have many ISO sensitivities at which they can shoot. There are even third party sites that measure how accurate those sensitivity settings are in a lab. Here, for example, are the results for selected versus actual ISO for three of the top cameras currently on the market. (Click "Measurements-->ISO ...


6

Your camera saves this information, which we call "metadata" (because it is data about the data captured in the photo itself — one level beyond, or meta), in every file. There are many utilities which can read and display this. I'm not aware of any software designed for photography which doesn't — that'd include Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom, Picassa, and ...


6

In most of old cameras (film) people are concerned about shutter speed accuracy at all speeds Shutter speed has a direct bearing on exposure. With digital cameras, you find out more or less immediately if you've dialed in the exposure correctly and you can take steps to compensate. With film, you don't get that feedback with film until hours, days, or ...


5

No, there's no way to deduce the max shutter speed. It's typically listed in the same specs where you'd find the kind of information you've listed, in fact.


5

Yes. What you're envisioning is something that's actually used by some TTL-capable radio triggers to allow faster shutter speeds with manual flashes and studio strobes: it's called tail-sync (aka "HyperSync", "Supersync", etc.). The problem, as Loong has pointed out, is that the light/power output of the flash pulse is not even and constant during the ...


5

By a zoom lens I assume you mean a telephoto (long focal length) lens, as zoom implies a variable focal length. There are no f/1.4 zooms and f/2.0 zooms are incredibly rare. In any case you are being mislead by the blurred background into thinking this was shot with a fast f/1.4 - f/2.0 lens. Background blur is actually more closely related to the size of ...


4

Once you take a photo, you can view Photo Information by clicking the Play button on the back of your D3200 and clicking the Arrow either up or down. More information can be found on page 98 of your manual. Aperture, Shutter speed, ISO, Focal Length, Focus Mode, Flash Mode, White Balance, and much more is all available via this menu.


4

The main way you balance out light against your needs for the image is the "exposure triangle" of the three main settings: ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. You have to choose your priorities: noise (ISO), depth of field (aperture), or the possibility of blur (shutter speed). Outside of these three settings, however, you do have two other options. You can ...


4

Quite simply the faster your shutter, the less light you get to the sensor. You have 3 options: lower your shutter speed widen your aperture increase sensor sensitivity (ISO) The point of manual mode is to give you COMPLETE control, but it sounds like you dont yet understand the way exposure works. I would suggest you use P (basically full auto ...


4

Hoping I haven't misunderstood your question, it is as simple as this: Turn Dial on top left of Camera to “M” Press the “Q” button on the back of the camera Set ISO to auto Alternatively Turn Dial on top left of Camera to "M" Press the ISO Button on top of Camera and turn the top dial to the left until you reach "A" now you are free to set the ...


3

Image Stabilization (IS). The EF 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS has it, the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 doesn't. IS lets you shoot at a slower shutter speed before camera shake becomes an issue. If you are shooting at shutter speeds fast enough that camera movement is not an issue for you, then IS has very little to no effect on your image. Also, IS will not help you if your ...


3

On the D610, I prefer using the 'Remote Shutter Delay' set to 3s than the Mirror Lock-Up. These two essentially do the same thing but need only one press for the former. This makes it possible to capture sharp long exposures even without a wireless remote. It works with it too though. Having the remote opens you the option to do much longer BULB exposures ...


3

Here are some options: Find some shade If there's too much light for your style you need a location with less light :-) in mid-day sunlight you may need something pretty big to block enough light but still it's an easy option Shoot at a better time of day At early morning and late evening there's less light and you'll be able to get the aperture/shutter ...


3

To create a sort of analogy, let's consider a final, perfectly exposed photograph to be 100 litres of collected water, our camera, is the rainforest, and our camera's sensor, is a bunch of small buckets. We're going to play god here so we can control the environment (our camera) manually, and try to collect the rain using our buckets. Now, we have several ...


3

(I think) Every digital photo has aditional data stored on it besides the image itself. That is called Exif data (Exchangeable image file format). A Dslr camera can shoot to a raw or jpg image file, and both formats include this data. Smartphones and compact cameras most likely shoot only in jpg, but it includes this information too. When you manipulate ...


3

One need not be concerned with precise shutter speed unless the camera is being used for measurement, e.g. length of a streak image, or to avoid illumination flicker in video. The electronic shutter should be quite accurate. However, for certain sensors and shutter speeds, there may be a rolling shutter effect when the whole sensor is not read ...


3

It's practically impossible to tell, but as I am procrastinating I will take a shot (ho ho): Guesstimate analysis: Telephoto of a minimum 200mm - reason: It's a kite surfer. There are ways of getting this close without a tele, but they aren't exactly simple, and would mean you'd have to be very good indeed at accurate panning - imagine how fast she's going ...


3

Yes, this is generally the case. If you fix a value like aperture (which is what you are doing when you set the camera to Av mode), one of the other exposure factors must change — and the only other options are shutter speed and ISO. If you are using automatic ISO, that may or may not change first, according to your specific camera's program line. If you ...


2

If the camera and subject are not moving at all, then the photo will have no motion blur regardless of how slow the shutter is. Obviously, these things are all relative. Even when you hold the camera very still it is still subject to enough movement to affect sharpness in long exposures. Amount of camera movement scale: Heavy tripod, remote (or timed) ...



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