Hot answers tagged shutter-speed
19
Here's a really good case for the application of Okham's Razor.
The simplest explanation is that the image was shot outdoors, under the midday sun. The blur was not added in post but is the result of the close shooting distance and relatively wide aperture of f/4. The fast shutter speed was required otherwise the shot would have been overexposed due to the ...
19
Those listed are full stops. Most cameras allow you to increment shutter speed and aperture in half-stops or one-third stops, and you can select intermediate values manually.
If you have the camera set to half-stops, then you'll have 1/350 between 1/250 and 1/500.
If you have 1/3 stop increments set, you'll have 1/320 and 1/400
To work these out, a ...
17
The camera is likely setting the shutter speed to match the sync speed of the flash. If it was set any faster, you would get black bands of underexposure across your shots, or at the fastest speeds a completely black shot. This is because the shutters would have finished moving to some degree before the flash completed its fire.
14
The term "exposure" is used for a number of different but related things in photography. I can see how this might be confusing. Here are five different ways in which it is used:
The combination of all factors which make a photograph have a certain overall brightness. The key factors are shutter speed, lens aperture, and sensor or film sensitivity (a.k.a. ...
11
Night-time action is the toughest conditions to shoot in but luckily, modern DSLRs are the best tools for this.
You will have to stack the odd on your side to get a reasonable rate of keepers by:
Using a high ISO. It is safe to use ISO 800 on all current DSLRs for even large prints but you can get away with higher sensitivities, depending on your intended ...
11
I initially marked this as a duplicate of How can I avoid star trails without an expensive tracking mount?, but on reflection, I think the answer here is simply the assumption in that one: to get a night-sky exposure longer than 30 seconds or so, you have to track the motion of the sky, and a fancy tracking mount is the way to do that.
It looks (from the ...
10
A sufficiently fast shutter would do it, but that also may very well not be a satalite photo. Google maps also uses arial photos and the detail of the plane in the photo seems too high and the plane too large in comparison to the ground for it to be taken from space. My guess is that the photo was taken from another plane, probably moving in a similar ...
8
The shutter you hear is a mechanical shutter and it cannot on a DSLR move fast enough to shoot at video speeds which is between 24 and 60 FPS. High-end mechanical shutters usually top at 12 FPS.
The shutter used in video and high-speed drive on some cameras is an electronic shutter. There are no moving parts involved and hence no sound. The sensor simply ...
8
It is simply a convention because 30s was deemed a reasonable limit. Nikon, Pentax and Sony all use 30s but Olympus uses 60s. Panasonic uses 60s on most camera but up to 250s.
As you can tell by the presence of Bulb mode, most cameras can do more. Olympus limits theirs to 30 minutes to avoid the sensor over-heating or building up too much noise. Other ...
8
The problem is the read-out speed. You cannot read the entire sensor fast enough for this to work in the general case. Even if you could. there would also be a detrimental effect on image quality as you would be applying read-out noise over and over again.
At least with CMOS sensors you can read at random locations but with CCD sensors each row is shifted ...
8
Of course the answer is, it depends.
A common rule often mentioned is that to get sharp images hand held, you need a shutter speed that is 1/focal length used. When using this rule though you must also take your format or sensor size into account. Lucky for you, you do have a full frame(35mm) sensor so no factor is necessary. You must also consider if your ...
8
Do the math. Let's say the plane is moving at 200 MPH, which is a plausible value right after takeoff or right before landing. Note that the flaps are extended, so one of these is the case.
200 MPH is 89 m/s. There is some blur. I'd say about 250 mm or less motion of the plane during the picture is about the limit that picture is showing us. That would ...
7
Fortunately, it's not actually voodoo magic. You have set a fixed ISO of 400, and you're in aperture priority mode, which means you're choosing the aperture and not giving the camera control of that.
That means the one variable the exposure program can change is shutter speed. When you tell it you want the exposure to be two stops darker, the only thing it ...
7
Edit: before I can accept an answer I need a clarification and maybe someone should tell me if this should be a different question. Light coming from the scene is constant regardless of the focal length, but apertures are represented as a function of focal length and we usually just refer to the denominator. So if F/4 at 24mm is 24/4 versus F/4 at 200mm ...
7
My take on this:
3) For me the blurryness looks like it was due to the shallow DOF of short working distance and f/4.
2) Macro shots usually have small DOF due to the close working distance. With f/8 you would have more DOF, more of the image would be sharp. So it would not be the same picture. This is a matter of taste, my guess is that f/4 was used ...
7
Shutter speed
Theoretically speaking shutter speed has no impact on image colour however there are a number of side effects that can affect colour under certain circumstances.
Lighting colour temperature shifts. This occur with most AC (alternating current) lights and is typically worst with fluorescent tube lighting which swings wildly between green ...
7
They're not gone completely, they are there with blur, but the effect a moving object has on the overall exposure is so small that we can't see it any more.
You could simulate this effect in Photoshop or other editing tools. Create an image with a black background and put a white dot or mark in the centre and apply increasing amounts of the motion blur ...
7
A tripod always matters. With a good tripod and head, a camera will always be more stable.
There is a rule-of-thumb, which states that the shutter-speed should
be faster than the reciprocal of the focal-length in 35mm-equivalent
terms to get a sharp images while hand-holding.
In the case of a 35mm lens on a full-frame camera, that should be 1/35s ...
6
There is no such thing. Unlike a tripod, a monopod only improves stability. How much will depend on the particular monopod, its height, the wind, the focal-length you use, how you breath, etc.
What you can hope is that it will improve compared to how you hand-hold. Remember than these is no absolute their either. A common rule of thumb is 1 over the ...
6
Briefly, exposure is a combination of factors all of which together tell you how much light accumulates on the sensor to make the picture. Shutter speed is only one aspect of exposure. The three major factors are ISO (sensor or film sensitivity), f-stop (how much light the lens lets thru), and shutter speed (how long the light has to accumulate on the ...
6
I don't think they directly affect the colours.
Indirectly, aperture and exposure can affect ISO. Colour saturation decreases as ISO increases.
Long exposure also heat up the sensor creating more noise, this will also have an impact on the colours.
Edited to add:
When photographing badminton games, the colours of each photo will appear to be different. ...
6
I think you're looking for "overpowering the ambient light", or, more graphically, "killing the ambient".
This means using artificial lighting so bright that it outshines the regular sources, usually the sun. (Dim indoor lighting is easy enough to overpower that it's scarcely talked about, but if you really want absolute control of the light, should be ...
6
The camera records light reflected or emitted by the scene being photographed. While the shutter is kept open during exposure, the camera accumulates light hitting the sensor as per the selected sensitivity and aperture.
Now, thinking about the camera recording light, you can consider what happens to different parts of the scene:
A stationary object: The ...
6
The effect you are going for or story you want to tell with your photograph will play a big part in what shutter speed/depth of field you use.
If you are photographing a Formula 1 race you might want to show the cars as a blur against the stands. In that case you want a slower shutter speed.
If you want to highlight the loneliness of a batsman at the ...
6
It actually depends on the camera that you have. You basically have two kinds of "Live Preview", the first using an automatic gain fonction to help you with the framing. It's the most basic one and for this, no matter what exposure setting you choose or modify, the screen will keep showing the same scene.
The second type of live preview is called Real time ...
6
This is a bit of a tough question, as it depends on several factors. I would in fact say that there is no possible general answer to this question.
When moving at typical vehicular speeds, the shutter speed is selected to stop motion, in this case, the photographer's motion. When you're moving at these speeds, objects closer to you appear to be moving ...
5
To get the faces better lit you have to expose for those faces.
For those reading this with a DSLR camera you can use the Auto Exposure Lock function to expose for a face and then recompose.
When it comes to point and shoot cameras the same procedure varies from make and model to make and model, if it is at all possible. I am not directly familiar with ...
5
I started out in the 80s with a similar rangefinder by Olympus and regularly got great results with Kodak's black and white Tri-X. Now available as 400TX this is a fast yet fine grained film that can handle push-processing well. It captures nice high contrast which will help bring the best out of overcast conditions.
An old rule of thumb you can start with ...
5
Ignoring artificially increasing the light (flash, bounce cards, etc):
Exposure = Shutter + Aperture + ISO
You only factored in shutter and aperture. Your best bet at this point is to shoot RAW and increase ISO as high as you can tolerate. Depending on your camera, this may be anywhere from ISO 800 - ISO 12800. You can always try to reduce the noise later ...
5
Look at your exposure meter. Your gear is only capable of so much and in the Av/Tv/P modes it will attempt to use your settings (such as your specified shutter speed), and adjust the other settings to get the right exposure. If you adjust a setting too far then it won't be able to keep up. You should see your meter and/or shutter/aperture settings (whichever ...
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