Shadowy Daisy

Shadowy Daisy
by damned-truths

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38

but why i can see little bit of orange color with shutter speed 1/400 ? My best guess is that you had the camera set to automatic white balance (AWB). In the 1/200s shot, the moon was bright enough to easily be the brightest thing in the frame, and the white balance algorithm decided that that object was most likely to be white. In the 1/400s shot the ...


26

It depends on what you mean by "highest". If you have enough light, then the first thing you should do is to reduce the ISO setting to the minimum, so that you can get as much light as possible on the sensor1. Lower ISO means less noise, more dynamics. If there is still enough light, then close the diaphragm a bit compared to its maximum possible aperture (...


25

What you are looking for is a ND (Neutral Density) filter. To illustrate, here is an example of photo taken in daylight in a street with a ND1000 filter. The filter allowed a shutter speed of 6 seconds. With no filter, with the same aperture and ISO, the shutter speed would have been approximately 6/1000 = 0.006 secondes (no "ghosts" effect). Contrary to ...


24

The blur is caused by the people moving while you were taking the photograph with a slow shutter. Honestly, I think it improves this particular photo a lot: it shows that the people are dancing, rather than just standing in weird positions. If you want to, the only way to avoid it is to use a faster shutter speed. This necessarily involves compromises. If ...


22

As was said, the mechanical shutter has speed limitations. As to the slit, try to imagine without it. Suppose the shutter opens by moving from top to bottom of frame. And then of course, it has to close from bottom to top. So it is open longer on the top side than on the bottom side, which is uneven exposure. Modern fast curtains might move about 7 ...


20

Thought experiment time. Assume we'd like a minimum exposure of 1/2000 of a second (500 microseconds) on a 35mm full frame camera. We have a single 'shutter' to move out of the way, and back. We'll tolerate one side of the picture being 10% more exposed than the other, so that means we allow 50μs to move the shutter back and forth. So the shutter has to ...


14

Apart from using an ND filter, you might be able to achieve the desired effect by taking multiple photos and then blending them in post processing. Either an automatic blend with "ghost removal" might work, or layering the images and manually masking/unmasking selectively (in effect "painting out" the people). All of this pretty much requires a tripod for ...


14

The Factors There is an equation, and by convention, it's set up to be really simple. There are basically five factors to consider together: Aperture — the size of the opening which lets light in, Shutter Duration (or shutter speed) — the amount of time the sensor (or film) gets that light, Sensitivity (or ISO, or sometimes "film speed") — how quickly the ...


13

Honestly, the biggest problem I see in your picture is not the blur, but the badly clipped highlights. Next time, try shooting at, say, -1 EV (which will also reduce the exposure time, and thus the blur, a bit) and adjusting the exposure afterwards to get softer highlights. This does increase noise in the shadows a bit, as if you were using a higher ISO ...


9

Simple: the flash duration is very short. A full-powered flash is usually around ¹⁄₂₀₀th of a second, and if less than full power is used, it can be in the ¹⁄₁₀₀₀₀th range. If this flash is the only significant contributor of light in the image (and indoors, it's easy for that to be the case), the rest of the time the shutter is open just doesn't matter. ...


8

By a zoom lens I assume you mean a telephoto (long focal length) lens, as zoom implies a variable focal length. There are no f/1.4 zooms and f/2.0 zooms are incredibly rare. In any case you are being mislead by the blurred background into thinking this was shot with a fast f/1.4 - f/2.0 lens. Background blur is actually more closely related to the size of ...


8

No. If you have a faster shutter speed, you must be either increasing the aperture or the ISO to compensate. Both of those have effects on your photos, which may or may not be what you want: for example you may not want to shoot with your lens wide open, either because you want a greater depth of field or because you know your lens isn't sharp wide open.


8

No, it is not normal. One thing that Manual mode is used for is to take multiple photographs with the same exposure parameters which is very useful in many situations. There are a few cases where it may happen though. If you are bracketing for exposure, then one of the exposure-parameters, usually shutter-speed, is changed between frames until the bracket is ...


7

I bet you have enabled safety shift mode, an option which overrides your setting in Tv and Av modes if the result, in combination with ISO and the automatically adjusted parameter, would be severely underexposed or overexposed. You should be able to disable this; check the camera's manual for how to do it on your particular model. On the Canon 6D, it's in ...


7

Just to add a bit of links to the other (good) answers, if you do not want to use a ND filter, you can use multiple exposure and use an averaging method to simulate a long exposure --- basically, 20 exposures at 1/10 of seconds will be more or less equivalent to a 2 seconds exposures, or use a median filter, which can even be better --- in the right ...


6

You should base your decisions for shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, on your artistic needs, so that you achieve a correct exposure, the amount of bokeh/sharpness you desire, and low noise. See What is the "exposure triangle"? A high shutter speed will help to reduce shake, but it makes no difference after a certain point (typically cited as "1/...


6

You are seeing the scanning of the screen. Try shooting an airplane propeller next! The exposure is made with a travelling slit so different parts of the image are exposed at different times and the movement causes artefacts. Even though the shutter is not mechanical, the reset and readout has the same effect, but more complex: while a focal plane shutter ...


6

Hopefully you are aware of the relationship between the three main controls that affect exposure: Aperture, Shutter speed and ISO. In this case you've set an aperture of F/2. You have left the decision of shutter speed and ISO to the camera (by selecting Aperture Priority mode, and having Auto ISO on). It's a low light scene, so the camera doesn't have ...


6

The total exposure you get is governed by four factors: The brightness of the scene. How sensitive the sensor is. How long the scene light is projected onto the sensor. How concentrated the light from the scene is on the sensor. The last three are tradeoffs we get to control in the camera, and together are often termed the "exposure" that was used to ...


6

That is quite common in EXIF data but the values are usually closer. It is possible the EXIF data for that photo is telling us a lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.0 was used at f/2.8 and the shutter speed was set to 1/16 and that resulted in an actual exposure time of 1/11. Here is an example where the shutter speed and aperture selected were 1/500 and f/...


5

In each of the 4 photos, the amount of sky and foreground has changed. The sky is very bright and everything else is much darker. This makes for a very challenging exposure for any camera. The camera metering had to decide between the light and dark areas and come up with a guess as to what the correct exposure should be. Your camera actually did a very ...


5

You are totally right with your assumption of the ISO it would indeed by ISO 1600 and 800. 2/100 if you use the standard laws of mathematics and fractions this would become 1/50. Hence 2/100 = 1/50, 10/1000 = 1/100 and so on. This incorrect EXIF data can be caused by the processing of the image. In some cases programs will alter the EXIF to make it ...


5

I don't want to use flash Why not ? It's what flash is for. Get a good external flash and learn to love it. Learn to bounce light from the ceiling or using a bounce card or similar. Easy technique, great results. I would, however, agree that blur is useful in these shots sometimes. There's no other way to give a sense of motion. I disagree with the ...


5

If you think of a camera as simply a light collector or photon counter and ignore actually taking a picture of a scene, there is a very simple relationship between ISO, aperture, and shutter speed: Total light collected is proportional to ISO × aperture × shutter speed × available light in the scene For the remainder of this ...


5

In good light, your shutter speed will be something like a hundredth of a second (or less), so it's basically negligible in the limitations of continuous-drive. There's some inherent limits from moving the mirror and resetting the shutter, but the primary limits are processing time and writing the data. It takes some time to read the sensor data and to ...


4

Hoping I haven't misunderstood your question, it is as simple as this: Turn Dial on top left of Camera to “M” Press the “Q” button on the back of the camera Set ISO to auto Alternatively Turn Dial on top left of Camera to "M" Press the ISO Button on top of Camera and turn the top dial to the left until you reach "A" now you are free to set the ...


4

The thing you see is called motion blur. The amount of it depends on: subjects move (eg. standing still or waving hands), camera move (how still you're holding a camera) and a setting called Shutter Speed. I'd recommend you to learn how to use the last one. What it is: Imagine a real shutters on a window. You open them, let some light in and then close ...


4

In general, the answer is "no" for the reasons explained in detail in the other answers given. In the typical situation the main focus should be on aperture as Rafael explains. But there are situations where the shutter speed should have priority. If you take pictures of fast moving objects like birds in flight, or you are moving fast yourself, e.g. you want ...


4

Simply because there's only so fast a mechanical thing can accelerate out of the way of the sensor (or film) and back without causing severe engineering issues with timing and diminishing shutter lifetime. It's simply not worth it when the alternative has no disadvantages in most uses.


4

It's just a limitation of the built-in camera software. There are several apps available to take long exposure photos with smartphones. Some articles on gear, apps, and techniques: How To Take Stunning Long Exposure Photos With iPhone Taking Long Exposures with an iPhone How To Take Long Exposure Shots With Your Phone How to Do Long Exposure Photography w/ ...



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