Watching Over

by Vian Esterhuizen

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38

Actually 1/125 is half of 1/60, ±0.06 f-stop. It should be obvious by looking at shutter speeds that they were chosen to be the reciprocal of nice round numbers. Start with 1 second and keep dividing it by 2. Note that you missed the discrepancy between 1/16 s and 1/15 s. If you kept going in strict mathematical multiples of 2, then 1/60 s should ...


22

The difference between the "actual" shutter speeds at powers of 2 (1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, 1/64, 1/128, 1/256, 1/512, 1/1024, etc.) and the rounded numbers we use (1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, etc.) is so trivial as to be beyond the limits of the vast majority of cameras in existence to accurately differentiate. Most ...


13

f/16 will give you sharper image than f/1.4. Yes, diffraction does kick-in at f/16, but it's still not as bad as the optical flaws that are pronounced at f/1.4 in pretty much every f/1.4 lens out there. (see: tests of your particular lens, resolution charts) Also lens coma and astigmatism are worse when lens is wide open than when it's stopped-down. That's ...


12

It's a case of 'read the manual'. Page 54 - D600 manual. Just posting in case any one else ponders this. Exposure Depending on the scene, exposure may differ from that which would be obtained when live view is not used. Metering in live view is adjusted to suit the live view display, producing photographs with exposure close to what is seen ...


11

Your camera is limiting your shutter speed to the 60D's maximum sync speed. If you were to use a faster shutter speed, you'd have black bars at the top and/or bottom of the frame, because the shutter curtains would be covering part of the sensor when the flash burst goes off. The only way to use a faster shutter speed than 1/250s with flash it to use ...


9

The intention is that the actual exposure should be exactly the same for equivalent exposure settings, but there are small deviations. There are also some other differences to the images other than the obvious (e.g. different depth of focus for different apertures). Here are some differences that you may experience when choosing a different setting with the ...


9

So, it helps to start with knowing what a "stop" means. See What is one "stop"?, but, fundamentally, each stop is a doubling or halving of the exposure. So, given two shutter durations, you can find the number of stops between them by calculating the binary logorithm (log₂) of each, and subtracting. (If you don't remember your elementary school ...


7

In a theoretical sense, these things are perfectly interchangeable. See the second half of my answer to What is the "exposure triangle"? (after I get done ranting about the terminology). This is actually exactly the point of the "stops" system — you can think in terms of Exposure Value (measured in stops) and not need to worry about any complicated ...


7

If so, which would be more advisable? Assuming you don't have stability or motion issues and depth of field is not a concern then f/16 would be more advisable than f/1.4 as ultra-fast lenses show several image degrading aberrations when the aperture is wide open. However f/5.6 would probably be better still, as diffraction starts to kick in past this ...


6

I'm not sure what you are hoping for. The shutter is not in the lens, but rather in the camera. A lens can't increase the maximum shutter speed of the camera itself unless it had it's own independent shutter. I'm not aware of any such lenses. Speed Boosting adapters are not used to increase the maximum shutter speed of the camera, but rather to focus ...


6

Put it in Manual (M) mode and roll the wheel until it shows 'Bulb' on the display. Press and hold the shutter button for the desired length of time. You don't need a remote, but it helps to prevent camera shake to a great extent. P.S. The manual is your friend.


6

Digital cameras do have an ISO rating. In fact most of them have many ISO sensitivities at which they can shoot. There are even third party sites that measure how accurate those sensitivity settings are in a lab. Here, for example, are the results for selected versus actual ISO for three of the top cameras currently on the market. (Click "Measurements-->ISO ...


5

No, there's no way to deduce the max shutter speed. It's typically listed in the same specs where you'd find the kind of information you've listed, in fact.


4

I guess you are confused with term "faster lens". It basically a high quality glass with very small f number say f/1.2. The use of this kinda aperture is in low light conditions. When you can bring down the f number to gather more light, it helps you choose a faster shutter speed, you can pick a shutter speed you camera is designed for in your case no matter ...


4

At 1/250, you are trying to exceed the x-sync speed of the 6D (which is 1/180, as you have found), which explains the black bar. Don't forget that on the 450D, as a crop-sensor camera, the shutter has less distance to travel, so doesn't need to move as fast to give the same exposure time, which explains why some full frame cameras have a slower x-sync speed ...


3

The first step I would take if you are not sure what all you have changed is to restore the factory default settings. Note that with the D300 it takes several operations to restore all settings to default. Two Button Reset Hold the Quality and the +/- button down simultaneously for over two seconds. (See page 182 of the D300 User Manual) Reset Shooting ...


3

The rule isn't exact with slower shutter speeds either: 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, etc. I think the only reason for this is that it the basic full stop series (which 1/125 is part of) has been agreed to at some point as a standard so that exposure calculation is easier when working together with the full stop aperture series. I don't think the small "errors" ...


3

The distance of the objects is not a factor on your decision on the shutter speed. Their relative movement velocity related to the camera as well as your composition intentions and the available light is what really matters. The fact that you ask the question hints that you don't know about the artistic differences between a large aperture and a small one ...


3

Assuming you are using a tripod, the shutter speed will make little difference in itself. If you are hand-holding, a faster shutter speed will help to eliminate shake. You also have the consideration of any moving objects in the scene, like trees, water, or clouds - a slower shutter speed will blur them. However, image quality is rarely at its best at ...


3

You can use a wired remote release that has a built in intervalometer, such as this fairly inexpensive one or this one. Regardless of the brand name stamped on them, they all seem to be made identically. You then set the camera to Bulb and let the timer in the remote open and close the shutter.


3

Here are some options: Find some shade If there's too much light for your style you need a location with less light :-) in mid-day sunlight you may need something pretty big to block enough light but still it's an easy option Shoot at a better time of day At early morning and late evening there's less light and you'll be able to get the aperture/shutter ...


3

On the D610, I prefer using the 'Remote Shutter Delay' set to 3s than the Mirror Lock-Up. These two essentially do the same thing but need only one press for the former. This makes it possible to capture sharp long exposures even without a wireless remote. It works with it too though. Having the remote opens you the option to do much longer BULB exposures ...


3

Image Stabilization (IS). The EF 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS has it, the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 doesn't. IS lets you shoot at a slower shutter speed before camera shake becomes an issue. If you are shooting at shutter speeds fast enough that camera movement is not an issue for you, then IS has very little to no effect on your image. Also, IS will not help you if your ...


2

If the question is meant literally f/1.4 vs f/16, then I would say 16, because there are only handful of lenses that are good enough at f/1.4 to shoot landscape type of photography in great technical quality. But my mindset about setting aperture (for these types of shots or others) is different. In this kind of photography you should set your aperture to: ...


2

While you can use the Bulb mode and press the shutter release button, the button presses are likely to cause unwanted camera shake, even on the sturdiest tripod. I use and recommend an intervalometer such as this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA04D09G0109 Notice that the shutter release time can be set for any time up to 99 hours, 59 ...


2

You used a smaller aperture (larger f number) which results in a greater depth of field, thus the image was less far out of focus. It has nothing to do with the longer exposure. If you had added a bunch more light so that you could take it at f/22 with a 1/10 second exposure, you would get the same amount in focus as you did with the 10 second exposure at ...


2

Both you-tube answers are correct. Each has its trade-offs and produce different image effects that are a matter of 'artistic' choice or are more appropriate for the type of subject being photographed: 1: long shutter exposure, small aperture Deep depth of field due to small apeture (nearly everrything in the image will be in-focus) (may be desirable or ...


2

Im less about rules of thumbs than theoretic approaches. You achieve higher Magnification by going closer. Using a macro lens or extension tube allows you to get closer and still be in focus. It is the increased magnification that makes any blur more visible and that is the source of your statement " this rule breaks down". Another way to achieve this ...


2

That is what a hot or stuck pixel looks like when it is so "hot" that the fully saturated signal from one pixel figures prominently into the interpolated values of surrounding pixels when the data from the sensor is demosaiced to create colors from the monochromatic luminance values captured by each pixel well on the sensor. If it is a hot pixel the way to ...


2

Those numbers date from a century ago, when everything was mechanic on a camera. There was no way to build a shutter so accurate that there would have been a difference between 1/120 and 1/125... And 1000 is the human readable for 1024...



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